What would you guys recommend for having this done? I'm assuming it's not necessary that I go to the dealer right?

I'm in SoCal... does anyone have any recommendations for a place to have the work done?

anyone? Just looking for some general advice for having new brake pads installed...

Midas. They do all my brake work and have never messed anything up.

Those guys are all over, right?

Might want to check the SOCAL forums here.

Danny of MiniCorsa is very good with MINI's. He's located in Van Nuys.

I just replaced the brake pads on the other car with Hawk HPS. These are amazing for the price. Better stopping power, less brake dust, and less fade under heavy use.

+1 for minicorsa. if you're cheap, get the mintex pads

+2 on MiniCorsa

Since I know most of the people that go to him on a regular basis won't come here and +x him, i'll step in.

+238

Danny does great work at reasonable prices. Hard to beat it...

a very old school group of mechanics I talk to told me that if you need new pads on the mini, there's no point in not changing the rotors as well.

One of them showed me how the rotors wear. Not that pretty folks. Most are into minor changes on this forum but really, you need new rotors too.

Pads+rotors is a pretty darn easy DIY on the MINI... and saves a lotta dough. And gives you a warm, fuzzy feeling inside when done.

, BC. Get connected with your MINI at a root level. Makes ya love it even more.

Made a BAD 'no no' and let the rotors go to heck. Now must replace them. Do you need any 'special' tools to get the assemblies apart? Yes, I am going to attempt to do them myself as I cannot believe the labor charges.

Help????

Just a T50 torx to take out the torx bolt that holds the rotor to the hub. If you car's kept outside these and or the rotor can be a bit stuck in place. Helps to have a breaker bar or torque wrench (long handle) to get loose. I can't recall if I had to take the caliper bolts out to swing it clear or not. Very simple job in any case.

Edit: To clarify, you want a T50 torx that'll go on your ratchet, breaker bar, or torque wrench and in the correct size drive as your ratchet / breaker bar, I.E. 3/8th drive or 1/2 inch drive. If you're unsure check your local MINI club. I've offered to guide a few people in my club and let them use my garage and tools. I'm sure you can find a similar offer locally.

Thanks for the help... guess what I'll be doing the weekend?

Good luck There's a extensive write up on doing the brakes yourself in the tire and brake forum...

Darn double post... Sorry

There's an excellent writeup on DIY brakes in the... oh, never mind...

Good luck! Fun, relatively easy and money saving DIY!
I do mine every now and then, whether they need it or not, just because it's so much fun!

1) Pick up some PB Blaster or WD-40 and soak that TORX and around where the rotor meets the hub .... it helps things come apart

2) when you go to work on the rotor TORX bolt, apply firm pressure to keep that TORX socket firmly seated...it is real easy for it to ride out and then round off things. Some have good luck using an impact for this but I found an 18" breaker bar sufficient. To keep the assembly from rotating I put two wheel lugs back in loosely and use a piece of scrap re-bar to wedge the wheel from turning by threading the rebar thru the lugs and letting it hit the floor....

3) You need to loosen the caliber mount on the fronts in my experience, to get the rotor free, but the smaller rotors in the rear can be removed with just the caliber out of the way as needed for the pad change. Since those rear mounting bolts are a bit harder to get to, knowing this saves some time and skinned knuckes.

4) A bit of anti-seize on the back of the rotor where it meets the hub and on that TORX makes this easier yet, next time.

Rotors can be done in as little as an extra 5 minutes per wheel on top of a pad change....IF the rotor doesn't fight you comin off.

All great points, cap'n. Don't forget to get the tool to turn and compress the rear pistons. A lot of parts shops will rent the kit.
In SoCal, Autozone, Autoworks, Checker, Kragen -the big-box shops.

Use a bar clamp and a piece of wood. Put the wood over the piston and the bar clamp fits nicely over the wood and the outside of the caliper. Works like a charm.

Im pro i use a c clamp.
on the pad then on the back of the piston.
Thats how i roll.

I use a c clamp on the front ones and a pair of needle nose pliers on the rears. Just insert the tips of the pliers into the 2 dimples in the rear and push hard while turning clockwise! IMO, it's easier than trying to rig something else up.

i used a large c clamp and a pair of channel locks for the back ones. i wish i wouldv'e thought of needle nose pliers. that sounds much easier.