So, I've had my 2006 JCW a couple of years now. When I bought it there was a vibration in the brake pedal, so one of the first things on the list to fix was new pads and rotors, along with fluid flushes and checks on all the common things. Fast forward to 7500 miles later and there is a vibration in the steering wheel. My shop of choice has a look and says the rotors are warped, and they replace them under warranty of their work (which is great), and everything is great......But about 800 miles later (in less than a week as it happens) and the vibration is starting to come back. Haven't had any brake torturing stops, just normal road driving on the highway for a good amount.

The vibration is just in the steering wheel, and is much more minor than before but I figure it will just get worse again. So I'm looking for ideas as to the cause. The shop doesn't indicate they can see anything wrong, but it would seem maybe the calipers are causing the rotors to warp??? They are the JCW brakes with OEM replacement pads and rotors so I'm not sure what the issue is and hoping someone on the forums has seen this and knows where to look.

 

https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/warped-rotors-myth/

 

Thanks for the article.....seems the words "warped rotor" have just become code for "brake vibration problems" However I find this line of the article interesting :

"Lateral runout

Runout is a measurement of the difference between the high and low spots in the hub and on the rotor."

So....is that NOT warping of the surface of the brake system component? No the physical metal of the rotor isn't itself warped, but difference between high and low spots sure sounds like the same thing in more words. Rotor replacement isn't the solution, which I think my situation bears out nicely, unless you'd like to replace them in very short use intervals (not practical). The article does give some other areas to look into though, some I can do on my own, so thanks for sharing.

 

a good shop can check the runout ..... which can be due to uneven wear or simply poor manufacturing. Warp implies a 'bending' or 'twisting' due to uneven heat and just isn't possible if you agree with this article.

ask what the runout spec is . . .

consider this .... a not perfect hub surface can result in the rotor not sitting flat hence it will have a high and a low ..... rotor is not warped but acts like it is. A new rotor won't make this problem go away ... the hub is the issue . . . just one example. Failing hub (bearing) is another possible. 'warped rotor' is just throwing parts at the problem IMO.

 

Quite often vibrations can be felt on a Mini when the hub bearings are worn out. Also the tie rod ends can wear out and cause vibrations too! On top of that, the ball joints can do it also, so you need to have an auto tech check out, what is causing it, if you can not. (there are a few other reasons on top of these.)

 

So the car has been looked at several times by a reputable shop and they don’t find any problems, they replaced the rotors as a warranty claim, the vibration comes in after getting the brakes good and hot or did at least before they replaced the rotors, I would like to do more work myself but just am not confident to do so.

However today day I replaced my wheels and tires with a new set from Tire Rack, I can loosen 4 lugs and replace a tire even using a torque wrench. What I discovered was the 4 s lites probably weren’t original to the car as 2 of them appear to be totally different castings, probably knock offs that were cheaper. I’m going to see if I can verify that with part numbers on the inside castings. I’m quite sure these weren’t helping.

 

I have a feeling you're on the right track. Usually, I've found that a vibration in the steering wheel is indicative of a problem with wheels/tires or suspension components. Remember, when installing wheels, draw up the lugs hand tight, then apply torque on opposing pairs.

 

Bad lca bushings can also cause some braking movements.

 

Yeah, the fronts were done up by the shop WAY too tight, obviously using a gun not a wrench. I was quite unhappy getting them off.

 

So, I decided to switch shops and ended up at Detroit Tuned, who is active on the forum here I believe. They did a more comprehensive work up and found that the bushings up front were more or less done for. Then once apart the sway bar up front was also past it. Not to mention the rear brakes being worn enough to drag and not work properly (though not worn out so to speak). Once those problems were corrected I did STILL have a front brake rotor that was shot (after less than 3500 miles of driving being done with it in place). Have driven it about 700 miles since then and no problems so far. They also pointed out that the incorrect belt was installed on the car (too long for the JCW with a smaller pulley than the normal S would have), getting that corrected made a small difference.

Goes to show even if you're going to a shop you think is reputable they may not be paying close enough attention to some things. I won't disparage where I was going, BUT I don't think I can go back to them knowing I would have to watch what they were doing.