ALTA / JCW shift indicator DIY for the R53/GP
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ALTA / JCW shift indicator DIY for the R53/GP
folks, well Giusseppe was dying to get some mods to match his stablemate Howard! So one of the first things was the JCW shift indicator! Now at first this may seem like a simple task, but if you have looked at what JCW offers for the R53, you will see the problem. It is a dash mounted single sided indicator, that looks like dog-doo-doo vs. the R56 version that mounts on the column. SOOOOOO not content to stay with the norm, I decided to mount the R56 version on the R53 column. Here we go!
First call ALTA or go online to www.altaminiperformance.com and order up the JCW R56 Shift Indicator. Then indicate you have an R53 and you get the proper instructions, hardware etc. to match.
Second, when the package arrives you will get the indicator mounted on top of the R56 column plate. To begin, hack this piece apart. (I know sounds rough! Don’t be scared!) Remove the two screws that secure the indicator to the plate. Then pull the indicator away from the plate.
Then do this:
I used a set of dykes to simply open up a slot in the plate to release the wire.
Now, with the JCW indicator free from the clutches of the R56 plate, grab a set of wire cutters or similar and carefully cut a small slot in the side of the tube that protrudes from the bottom of the indicator. The slot is necessary to allow the wire to fold over instead of go down. (So this makes more sense, the end of this grey wire has a LARGE plug on it. As a result you can’t feed the wiring through the R53 plate. Instead we will run the wire under the indicator, then under the OEM tach or tach/speedo combo.) See photo below.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the tach (or tach/speedo combo) from the column plate cover in your R53. Then remove the plate.
Now using the R56 plate as a guide, mark two small holes to be drilled into the R53 plate. (Don’t make these too big!!!!!) Then use the screws removed above to mount the indicator to the plate. And it will look like this photo below (note the new ALTA Gauge Pod/Gauge combo mounted as well!)
Ok! Now remove the lower knee protection panel from under the steering column. It has two small screws and two rather sturdy pop-it type fasteners at the top. PULL HARD!
This allows for mounting of the white control box for the indicator. Using the supplied wire ties strap it to the substructure under the dash.
Finally, locate the OBDII data port under the dash. Release it from the mount to get better access to the wiring leading away from it.
Using the ‘T-taps’ provided by ALTA, tap the following wires:
Green with Blue Stripe
Brown
White with Red Stripe.
Then using the supplied male ends supplied by ALTA connect the three wires leading away from the control box to the following:
Green wire on Indicator goes to Green with Blue Stripe
Brown to Brown
White to White with Red Stripe.
Using the BMW instructions flip the dip switches in the control box to 4-cyl, then choose a redline point. These are variable. On the GP I chose 7000 RPM.
Then re-install the top plate, tach etc. Re-connect battery.
Start engine. If the indicator is working, it will flash etc., then leave one green LED illuminated in the center.
Then steadily bring the RPM up toward the redline chosen to watch how the lights move from the inside out.
For a YouTube video go to ALTAminiperformance.com click on JCW OEM parts, then the indicator, then on videos.
Double check that everything is re-connected and bolted tight and enjoy!
Thanks!
Adam
ALTA MINI Performance
www.altaminiperformance.com
adam@altaminiperformance.com
NAM Handle ADAMSALTAMINI
FOR PHOTOS CLICK THE LINK FOR THE .PDF BELOW!
First call ALTA or go online to www.altaminiperformance.com and order up the JCW R56 Shift Indicator. Then indicate you have an R53 and you get the proper instructions, hardware etc. to match.
Second, when the package arrives you will get the indicator mounted on top of the R56 column plate. To begin, hack this piece apart. (I know sounds rough! Don’t be scared!) Remove the two screws that secure the indicator to the plate. Then pull the indicator away from the plate.
Then do this:
I used a set of dykes to simply open up a slot in the plate to release the wire.
Now, with the JCW indicator free from the clutches of the R56 plate, grab a set of wire cutters or similar and carefully cut a small slot in the side of the tube that protrudes from the bottom of the indicator. The slot is necessary to allow the wire to fold over instead of go down. (So this makes more sense, the end of this grey wire has a LARGE plug on it. As a result you can’t feed the wiring through the R53 plate. Instead we will run the wire under the indicator, then under the OEM tach or tach/speedo combo.) See photo below.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the tach (or tach/speedo combo) from the column plate cover in your R53. Then remove the plate.
Now using the R56 plate as a guide, mark two small holes to be drilled into the R53 plate. (Don’t make these too big!!!!!) Then use the screws removed above to mount the indicator to the plate. And it will look like this photo below (note the new ALTA Gauge Pod/Gauge combo mounted as well!)
Ok! Now remove the lower knee protection panel from under the steering column. It has two small screws and two rather sturdy pop-it type fasteners at the top. PULL HARD!
This allows for mounting of the white control box for the indicator. Using the supplied wire ties strap it to the substructure under the dash.
Finally, locate the OBDII data port under the dash. Release it from the mount to get better access to the wiring leading away from it.
Using the ‘T-taps’ provided by ALTA, tap the following wires:
Green with Blue Stripe
Brown
White with Red Stripe.
Then using the supplied male ends supplied by ALTA connect the three wires leading away from the control box to the following:
Green wire on Indicator goes to Green with Blue Stripe
Brown to Brown
White to White with Red Stripe.
Using the BMW instructions flip the dip switches in the control box to 4-cyl, then choose a redline point. These are variable. On the GP I chose 7000 RPM.
Then re-install the top plate, tach etc. Re-connect battery.
Start engine. If the indicator is working, it will flash etc., then leave one green LED illuminated in the center.
Then steadily bring the RPM up toward the redline chosen to watch how the lights move from the inside out.
For a YouTube video go to ALTAminiperformance.com click on JCW OEM parts, then the indicator, then on videos.
Double check that everything is re-connected and bolted tight and enjoy!
Thanks!
Adam
ALTA MINI Performance
www.altaminiperformance.com
adam@altaminiperformance.com
NAM Handle ADAMSALTAMINI
FOR PHOTOS CLICK THE LINK FOR THE .PDF BELOW!
#3
VERY nice... at MOTD, I asked the MINIUSA guy about the new JCW shift light indicator, and whether it would also be released to support the 1st Gen MINIs. He said no... R56 only. That ticked me off.
My only concern (in my typical paranoid self) is that the fact it taps wires might affect the factory warranty, as it is not officially supported on the R53... so I might not get it yet, but I definitely see one in my MINI's future (14,000 miles left on warranty!).
Way to go Adam! The original JCW shift light looks like crap... this is SO much better.
My only concern (in my typical paranoid self) is that the fact it taps wires might affect the factory warranty, as it is not officially supported on the R53... so I might not get it yet, but I definitely see one in my MINI's future (14,000 miles left on warranty!).
Way to go Adam! The original JCW shift light looks like crap... this is SO much better.
#4
VERY nice... at MOTD, I asked the MINIUSA guy about the new JCW shift light indicator, and whether it would also be released to support the 1st Gen MINIs. He said no... R56 only. That ticked me off.
My only concern (in my typical paranoid self) is that the fact it taps wires might affect the factory warranty, as it is not officially supported on the R53... so I might not get it yet, but I definitely see one in my MINI's future (14,000 miles left on warranty!).
Way to go Adam! The original JCW shift light looks like crap... this is SO much better.
My only concern (in my typical paranoid self) is that the fact it taps wires might affect the factory warranty, as it is not officially supported on the R53... so I might not get it yet, but I definitely see one in my MINI's future (14,000 miles left on warranty!).
Way to go Adam! The original JCW shift light looks like crap... this is SO much better.
#5
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I just ordered the JCW R56 shift lights from Alta for my R53 (Xmas present from my wife).
Just wondering if the cable from the lights is still visible as you run the wire under the tach?
I have the factory boost/volt gauge cluster that has a new top plate/gauge pod and there doesn't appear to be enough room to slide the wire under the tach.
Any way to remove and then reattach the plug?
Can you cut the wire and splice (connectors or solder)?
Ever think of mounting them on the blank atop the dash for the solar sensor (for those of use without auto A/C) and running the wire down to OBD port from there?
Just wondering if the cable from the lights is still visible as you run the wire under the tach?
I have the factory boost/volt gauge cluster that has a new top plate/gauge pod and there doesn't appear to be enough room to slide the wire under the tach.
Any way to remove and then reattach the plug?
Can you cut the wire and splice (connectors or solder)?
Ever think of mounting them on the blank atop the dash for the solar sensor (for those of use without auto A/C) and running the wire down to OBD port from there?
#6
Thank you for asking. I replied to your mail today as well:
Thank you for asking. The answer is both yes and no. VERY small amount of it is shown (like less then 1/4") I don't see how the wire could be removed from the plug, UNLESS you wanted to cut and splice (which could be done for sure.)
Hope that helps! Thanks again for your purchase and christmas coming early!
Adam Taft
ALTA MINI Performance
3111 NE Shute Rd.
Hillsboro, OR 97124
503-693-1702 voice
503-693-1782 fax
www.altaminiperformance.com
Thank you for asking. The answer is both yes and no. VERY small amount of it is shown (like less then 1/4") I don't see how the wire could be removed from the plug, UNLESS you wanted to cut and splice (which could be done for sure.)
Hope that helps! Thanks again for your purchase and christmas coming early!
Adam Taft
ALTA MINI Performance
3111 NE Shute Rd.
Hillsboro, OR 97124
503-693-1702 voice
503-693-1782 fax
www.altaminiperformance.com
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May need to cut and resplice the wires and hide them totally under the top plate.
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Also been thinking of mounting them on the on top of the dash where the the solar sensor blank (round buttom for those without auto a/c) is and running the wire down to the OBD port from there. May look nice above the dash.
I will need to check the curve on the bottom of the lights vs. the rear dash top once I get it apart.
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That's what I'll probably do.
Also been thinking of mounting them on the on top of the dash where the the solar sensor blank (round buttom for those without auto a/c) is and running the wire down to the OBD port from there. May look nice above the dash.
I will need to check the curve on the bottom of the lights vs. the rear dash top once I get it apart.
Also been thinking of mounting them on the on top of the dash where the the solar sensor blank (round buttom for those without auto a/c) is and running the wire down to the OBD port from there. May look nice above the dash.
I will need to check the curve on the bottom of the lights vs. the rear dash top once I get it apart.
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(BTW-GF who supports mods )
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Just unpacked the shifts lights and made a template of the bottom of the indicators to match against my top plate with the OEM boost/volt gauges.
Looks like the two curves don't match with the top plate having a sharper curve.
Anyone else notice this on your R53 installs with the standard top plate?
From the other install photos I have seen on the standard top plate, it appears to match very well.
Looks like the two curves don't match with the top plate having a sharper curve.
Anyone else notice this on your R53 installs with the standard top plate?
From the other install photos I have seen on the standard top plate, it appears to match very well.