Interior/Exterior R56 roof rack
My wife just got a Clubman and we got the Mini base rack and bike rack setups. She for the first time tried getting her bike mounted and did. But, she isn't "tall" and with the front wheel on, it is a clumsy experience. Cannot imagine how that is going to go down after a long ride (exhaustion)...
So, she is wondering if there is an option for a fork mount for the front that works with the Mini bike rack, or do I need to dump the bike rack and get another manufacture with the fork mount that works on the Mini base..
Thanks!

So, she is wondering if there is an option for a fork mount for the front that works with the Mini bike rack, or do I need to dump the bike rack and get another manufacture with the fork mount that works on the Mini base..
Thanks!

I would highly recommend the thule sidearm.
Its really easy to mount up and it allows you to keep your front tire on like your current rack, except the sidearm does not grab the frame.
imho, using a fork mounted rack is dangerous... especially if you're tired because you have a really good chance of nicking the paint with the fork.
Fork mounts aren't any more dangerous than a regular rack, bikes can fall no matter what.
For people who are, maybe "vertically challenged", a fork mount is "less worse" than a full bike mount, but a hitch mount is best!
Just don't get one of those trunk mounts - too complicated to install, not sturdy, and can mar the paint. A hitch mount doesn't even touch the car!
For people who are, maybe "vertically challenged", a fork mount is "less worse" than a full bike mount, but a hitch mount is best!
Just don't get one of those trunk mounts - too complicated to install, not sturdy, and can mar the paint. A hitch mount doesn't even touch the car!
I installed my factory rack this weekend. I wrestled with it for about an hour and couldn't get the darn brackets to flatten out and fit under the head of the nut. I even put a small scratch in my roof in the process.
DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND TAKE THE ALLEN KEY AND LOOSEN THE 4 SCREWS THAT ATTACH THE CROSSBARS TO THE MOUTS BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO GET THE BRACKETS IN THE ROOF SLOT. ONCE YOU HAVE THE BRACKETS FLAT AND THE NUT TORQUED TO 6 Nm THEN TIGHTEN THE 4 ALLEN SCREWS.
After I loosened the 4 allen screws the brackets flattened right out and it only took 5 minutes. I wish the manual sad to do this from the beginning.
Another tip is to take some duct tape and wrap a small piece around the tool that helps you flatten out the brackets. They tend to want to spread apart, but if you use some duct tape you can preven that from happening. Make sure when you wrap the tape you allow the ends to have a small gap so that you can still use the tool. It's hard to explain without a picture, but you'll figure it out when you have the tool in hand.
One other Tip. put towels on your roof while you are installing the rack (atleast the first time) so that you don't scratch your roof.
DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND TAKE THE ALLEN KEY AND LOOSEN THE 4 SCREWS THAT ATTACH THE CROSSBARS TO THE MOUTS BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO GET THE BRACKETS IN THE ROOF SLOT. ONCE YOU HAVE THE BRACKETS FLAT AND THE NUT TORQUED TO 6 Nm THEN TIGHTEN THE 4 ALLEN SCREWS.
After I loosened the 4 allen screws the brackets flattened right out and it only took 5 minutes. I wish the manual sad to do this from the beginning.
Another tip is to take some duct tape and wrap a small piece around the tool that helps you flatten out the brackets. They tend to want to spread apart, but if you use some duct tape you can preven that from happening. Make sure when you wrap the tape you allow the ends to have a small gap so that you can still use the tool. It's hard to explain without a picture, but you'll figure it out when you have the tool in hand.
One other Tip. put towels on your roof while you are installing the rack (atleast the first time) so that you don't scratch your roof.
Hey so I guess this is my first post! HA well i'm just a mini dreamer right now, but I do work at a bike shop /rack store and this :
http://www.thuleracks.com/product.asp?dept_id=8&sku=916
is the cooliest rack out there. Yes you do have to get a hitch put on your car, BUT it is the EASIEST rack out there. The tray is only a couple inch's off the ground and once you put the bike on there all you do is push down the wheel holder and do the rear strap and you are DONE. Also it seriously saves on gas and power that you loose with a traditional roof rack.
Anyway great looking cars guys! Can't wait until a MINI is in the cards for me. Drove an S the other day and I'm ready to make one mine
. Oh and nice stumpy to the guy with the sidearm.
Eric
http://www.thuleracks.com/product.asp?dept_id=8&sku=916
is the cooliest rack out there. Yes you do have to get a hitch put on your car, BUT it is the EASIEST rack out there. The tray is only a couple inch's off the ground and once you put the bike on there all you do is push down the wheel holder and do the rear strap and you are DONE. Also it seriously saves on gas and power that you loose with a traditional roof rack.
Anyway great looking cars guys! Can't wait until a MINI is in the cards for me. Drove an S the other day and I'm ready to make one mine
. Oh and nice stumpy to the guy with the sidearm. Eric
Another tip for the factory rack: Remove the rubber channel inserts before using the rack for something that will be under lots of wind stress like a kayak. With the rubber strip installed, my kayak racks would slide along the cross bar at highway speeds and work themselves loose.
Also, if carrying kayaks, get an extra tow hook so you can have one on front and one on the back. Buy straps to secure the front and back of kayaks to the tow hooks. If your kayak rack just came with rope to secure the front and back, ditch it for some sort of strap that can be tightened.
Also, if carrying kayaks, get an extra tow hook so you can have one on front and one on the back. Buy straps to secure the front and back of kayaks to the tow hooks. If your kayak rack just came with rope to secure the front and back, ditch it for some sort of strap that can be tightened.
Rock solid, decently quiet, clears the spoiler, and just plain works. Not new stuff, but I'll take quality and old over cheap and new everyday.
EDIT: As I finished typing that all seems pretty obscure. The fork mount trays I used, one not modified and the other modified to fit the curves of the MINI rack. The two holes used to mount had no reason for being there before, as the trays originally used the other two mounting holes.
Also, does this qualify as the weirdest thing mounted to a MINI roof rack?
Last edited by oldopelguy; May 5, 2008 at 02:34 PM.
I have been carrying my road bike in the car but I can't carry anything else when I do that. So I am considering roof mount options.
I would like to get the MINI OEM roof rack. But I don't know whether to get the MINI's Touring Bicycle rack or Thule fork mount. Which is more secure? Any opinions would be appreciated.
Has anyone seen/experienced/heard anything about a bike falling from the roof from either system?
I would like to get the MINI OEM roof rack. But I don't know whether to get the MINI's Touring Bicycle rack or Thule fork mount. Which is more secure? Any opinions would be appreciated.
Has anyone seen/experienced/heard anything about a bike falling from the roof from either system?
Last edited by r56mini; May 8, 2008 at 10:21 PM.
I have been carrying my road bike in the car but I can't carry anything else when I do that. So I am considering roof mount options.
I would like to get the MINI OEM roof rack. But I don't know whether to get the MINI's Touring Bicycle rack or Thule fork mount. Which is more secure? Any opinions would be appreciated.
Has anyone seen/experienced/heard anything about a bike falling from the roof from either system?
I would like to get the MINI OEM roof rack. But I don't know whether to get the MINI's Touring Bicycle rack or Thule fork mount. Which is more secure? Any opinions would be appreciated.
Has anyone seen/experienced/heard anything about a bike falling from the roof from either system?
Oh, I hope so, I've been wondering and they're on sale today at EasternMountainSports...
I am moving cross-country and want to put the Thule Sidekick and the Peloton on top of my R56 to make the trip... I wonder if there is enough room. The Sidekick roof box is only 25" across, how wide is the OEM rack? Do you think I could also fit my bike up there?
I am moving cross-country and want to put the Thule Sidekick and the Peloton on top of my R56 to make the trip... I wonder if there is enough room. The Sidekick roof box is only 25" across, how wide is the OEM rack? Do you think I could also fit my bike up there?
Go to page 5 of this thread and look at my post. You'll see picks of the rack with the thule 1200 and the peleton rack. I also put the single wheel mount on the front bar between the rack and the box, but it's not in the pictures
I didn't go up in any canyon roads with 165 pounds on the roof and throw it in and out of corners like James Bond, if that's what you mean. I did hit 90mph driving cross country fully loaded though. Everything seemed to stay put. Expect your mileage to be atrocious, though. I only averaged about 27 or 28 because of the drag. I usually get about 34 at highway speeds.
So:
- the roof rack is with a gutter. I can measure it at home. On the other side it comes with a rubber cap - that fills that gutter so it doesn't rain or collect dirt - you can cut the rubber strip at your desire to fill the gaps between the items on the roof rack;
- I received yesterday the touring bike mount. VERY sturdy. It slides in the gutter and it can be fixed with three screws/sliders - two in front - one in the back). I can take pictures of it this weekend (didn't mount it on the roof rack yet). But one thing - I will not unmount the rack to show the jaws. I cursed those jaws too much when installing them and I hate taking them off - so - sorry - no pictures. But I can make a drawing...
- you can put (at least Yakima) components on the rack. I tried the Yakima PowerHound (ski support) and it accepts round and eliptical crossbars. I can measure the bars (this weekend again) to give you rthe dimensions - they are closer to eliptical rather than rectangular in section - or a rectangle with very smooth edges, whatever;
- the setup is DYI (+someone else). I gave full info on the other thread - but basically it is removing the (barely) precut/stamped rubber hood spots (with a tweezer you pinch the edhes), clean the edges very very nicely (with an Xacto knife - not mandatory - but it helps), unlock the lateral panels (with the MINI inscription), partially unscrew the washer/nut/colar/nut ensemble - easier to understand when you see it - again I can make a drawing) until the jaws pivot so you can slip them thru the stamped rubber holes deep in MINI's roof, then screw the nuts back pressing ON TOP of the jaws so they can pivot in th eholes and offer solid grip/bite on the hood. Careful to see how the rack is positiones - took me several attempts - but it is simple: the position labels (under the left pillars) are on the DRIVER side - and there is one for the back and one for the front. They will not fit otherwise.
- USE TOWELS to wrap the pillars otherwise you will scratch the roof. I did a minor scratch on mine (covered by the pillar though).
- buy them from Morristown MINI or Classic mINI (whichever is closer from you). I bought them from Classic - they were fast (about 6 days) and the shippin was reasonable. No - I am just a happy customer - no advertizing. The base roof rack was 188$ (both offer 20% off for NAM and no tax - and shipping was somewhere around 15-18$ - big box); Certainly I wouldn't buy them from the local dealer that gives you full MSRP and tax. And installation fee.
- today it was rainy and windy and yes - there was some noise from the rack even at lower speed. In non-windy days - you can hear a whistling sound at 60-65 mph. BUt I listen to music anyhow...
Again - I'll be more than happy to answer any question - and even take pictures if people need it - but sometimes this weekend (very busy during the week).
- the roof rack is with a gutter. I can measure it at home. On the other side it comes with a rubber cap - that fills that gutter so it doesn't rain or collect dirt - you can cut the rubber strip at your desire to fill the gaps between the items on the roof rack;
- I received yesterday the touring bike mount. VERY sturdy. It slides in the gutter and it can be fixed with three screws/sliders - two in front - one in the back). I can take pictures of it this weekend (didn't mount it on the roof rack yet). But one thing - I will not unmount the rack to show the jaws. I cursed those jaws too much when installing them and I hate taking them off - so - sorry - no pictures. But I can make a drawing...
- you can put (at least Yakima) components on the rack. I tried the Yakima PowerHound (ski support) and it accepts round and eliptical crossbars. I can measure the bars (this weekend again) to give you rthe dimensions - they are closer to eliptical rather than rectangular in section - or a rectangle with very smooth edges, whatever;
- the setup is DYI (+someone else). I gave full info on the other thread - but basically it is removing the (barely) precut/stamped rubber hood spots (with a tweezer you pinch the edhes), clean the edges very very nicely (with an Xacto knife - not mandatory - but it helps), unlock the lateral panels (with the MINI inscription), partially unscrew the washer/nut/colar/nut ensemble - easier to understand when you see it - again I can make a drawing) until the jaws pivot so you can slip them thru the stamped rubber holes deep in MINI's roof, then screw the nuts back pressing ON TOP of the jaws so they can pivot in th eholes and offer solid grip/bite on the hood. Careful to see how the rack is positiones - took me several attempts - but it is simple: the position labels (under the left pillars) are on the DRIVER side - and there is one for the back and one for the front. They will not fit otherwise.
- USE TOWELS to wrap the pillars otherwise you will scratch the roof. I did a minor scratch on mine (covered by the pillar though).
- buy them from Morristown MINI or Classic mINI (whichever is closer from you). I bought them from Classic - they were fast (about 6 days) and the shippin was reasonable. No - I am just a happy customer - no advertizing. The base roof rack was 188$ (both offer 20% off for NAM and no tax - and shipping was somewhere around 15-18$ - big box); Certainly I wouldn't buy them from the local dealer that gives you full MSRP and tax. And installation fee.
- today it was rainy and windy and yes - there was some noise from the rack even at lower speed. In non-windy days - you can hear a whistling sound at 60-65 mph. BUt I listen to music anyhow...
Again - I'll be more than happy to answer any question - and even take pictures if people need it - but sometimes this weekend (very busy during the week).
Have you had any issues with the mounts weakening? What are your thoughts?
I just got the roof racks fitted at the MINI dealer and the service assistant advised me not to take the racks on and off all the time. Is this true? What would be wrong with me just putting the racks on when I need them? ie. once a month?
Have you had any issues with the mounts weakening? What are your thoughts?
Have you had any issues with the mounts weakening? What are your thoughts?
^^ bump
Regarding taking your rack on and off, I personally leave my rack on so I am not coming from experience. However, from my own opinion, if you are careful and follow the correct tightening specs and procedures (also not scratching roof), I do not see a problem. I placed small patches of protective film just above the connect points, which should help avoid scratches. Towels could be used or just thought of this, put a sock over the end away from you, connect the first side and then go to other.
Also, you may want to mark the locations of connect points (front drivers, rear drivers,...) since my stickers fell off. One of my location stickers was not quite right because it seemed to fit better flipped around. I think others may have found this too. I was thinking of marking inside the locked cover with a paint marker so it wont show when mounted.
One more thought question that I have been trying to figure out, anyone know what the three plastic ridges are for on the front cross bar?
Also, you may want to mark the locations of connect points (front drivers, rear drivers,...) since my stickers fell off. One of my location stickers was not quite right because it seemed to fit better flipped around. I think others may have found this too. I was thinking of marking inside the locked cover with a paint marker so it wont show when mounted.
One more thought question that I have been trying to figure out, anyone know what the three plastic ridges are for on the front cross bar?
Last edited by JLLG; May 21, 2008 at 06:39 AM.
I just did a week-long trip with the Thule Sidekick mounted on my MINI roof rack and it was great. I'm guessing the plastic ridges are so that items you have connect don't slide from side to side.
I fit two suitcases that fit in the overhead compartment on a plane, plus a travel high chair and boppy pillow in it without a problem. A bit of wind noise, and my mileage went down to about 30-33 mpg because of it. But, hey-- that's still MUCH better than our SUV!
I fit two suitcases that fit in the overhead compartment on a plane, plus a travel high chair and boppy pillow in it without a problem. A bit of wind noise, and my mileage went down to about 30-33 mpg because of it. But, hey-- that's still MUCH better than our SUV!
Hey so I guess this is my first post! HA well i'm just a mini dreamer right now, but I do work at a bike shop /rack store and this :
http://www.thuleracks.com/product.asp?dept_id=8&sku=916
is the cooliest rack out there. Yes you do have to get a hitch put on your car, BUT it is the EASIEST rack out there. The tray is only a couple inch's off the ground and once you put the bike on there all you do is push down the wheel holder and do the rear strap and you are DONE. Also it seriously saves on gas and power that you loose with a traditional roof rack.
Anyway great looking cars guys! Can't wait until a MINI is in the cards for me. Drove an S the other day and I'm ready to make one mine
. Oh and nice stumpy to the guy with the sidearm.
Eric
http://www.thuleracks.com/product.asp?dept_id=8&sku=916
is the cooliest rack out there. Yes you do have to get a hitch put on your car, BUT it is the EASIEST rack out there. The tray is only a couple inch's off the ground and once you put the bike on there all you do is push down the wheel holder and do the rear strap and you are DONE. Also it seriously saves on gas and power that you loose with a traditional roof rack.
Anyway great looking cars guys! Can't wait until a MINI is in the cards for me. Drove an S the other day and I'm ready to make one mine
. Oh and nice stumpy to the guy with the sidearm. Eric
Hi Eric- thanks for the Thule link and rack info. I've always used Yakima racks, but will consider your suggestion. I almost bought the Mini rack, but had bad vibes about it. Good luck and have fun with your Mini buying experience. I'm waiting for mine to be born!
haven't read the whole thread but i'm a bit confused... will the yakima not work on an r56? i'll be getting a mcs within the next couple of weeks and that was one of the first mods i plan on doing...


