Interior/Exterior DIY blackout HL & TL rings - grill surround R56S guide
It's not spray paint though.
When you have a few minutes, go over the directions on the can.....PD is totally different. Layers have to be applied within a certain time frame, and CANNOT be applied in direct sunlight. Find a shady cool spot like a garage or basement
When you have a few minutes, go over the directions on the can.....PD is totally different. Layers have to be applied within a certain time frame, and CANNOT be applied in direct sunlight. Find a shady cool spot like a garage or basement


I've been doing them in my garage with no wind, but again the heat and humidity is out of control here. I am going to try to somehow rig up a system in my extra half bathroom at my house.
I know this should be super simple, but you've seen my results. I'll see how my homemade spray booth works inside my AC'd house.
Last edited by combfilter; Jun 25, 2010 at 08:40 AM.
I don't know if it's the heat and humidity 100 degrees with like 40-50% humidity.(in which faq on plasti-dip's site says , do not use in high humidity), but i am having horrible luck getting my plasti dip smooth looking. I have done the gas cap like 3x's now and it always starts to bubble up kind of peach fuzz looking texture. Are you guys some how sanding it between coats?
My technique that so far is not working
1. clean chrome part with mineral spirits and then ammonia free glass cleaner
2. do not touch it with my fingers once clean
3. first coat, I hold the can 12-16" away and spray in strokes and lightly cover the chrome piece with a light coat
4. wait 30 minutes and come back and spray from 12" away and lightly cover the chrome piece again. This is when I see this peach fuzz type texture appear
5. wait 30 minutes and do the same thing as step 4.
6. come back and get pissed that it's all fuzzy and wonder if it's the heat and humidity here in texas
7 strip off plasti dip with mineral spirits and try again.
I am using the spray like i was spray paint anything else. Very smooth strokes not letting off the nozzle till I am past the piece i am painting during my stroke.

My technique that so far is not working
1. clean chrome part with mineral spirits and then ammonia free glass cleaner
2. do not touch it with my fingers once clean
3. first coat, I hold the can 12-16" away and spray in strokes and lightly cover the chrome piece with a light coat
4. wait 30 minutes and come back and spray from 12" away and lightly cover the chrome piece again. This is when I see this peach fuzz type texture appear
5. wait 30 minutes and do the same thing as step 4.
6. come back and get pissed that it's all fuzzy and wonder if it's the heat and humidity here in texas
7 strip off plasti dip with mineral spirits and try again.
I am using the spray like i was spray paint anything else. Very smooth strokes not letting off the nozzle till I am past the piece i am painting during my stroke.

I am getting the same results you are. I gave up... after 3 attempts.
I'm going to try Duplicolor Trim paint.
Just thought I express my appreciation for this thread. I'm not into modding, but I did stupidly drop a tailight bulb and it's holder and couldn't get it after hours of trying with skinned knuckles. After reading this thread how to remove the taillight, it was a breeze. Thanks much.
Hey guys, i still need to do my front grill but i've been nervous about removing it. Has anyone had any issues taking off or putting on either the top or bottom portion? I also want to black out the side scuttles too, has anyone had any issues removing those? Is there anything I should know before plasi-dipping them? Thanks
Hey guys, i still need to do my front grill but i've been nervous about removing it. Has anyone had any issues taking off or putting on either the top or bottom portion? I also want to black out the side scuttles too, has anyone had any issues removing those? Is there anything I should know before plasi-dipping them? Thanks
Try 6 inches and a heavier coat. Being 12 inches away and lightly covering is causing it to be scattered. If you're closer and spray a heavier coat on until you see it "wet" you'll notice better results.
I don't know if it's the heat and humidity 100 degrees with like 40-50% humidity.(in which faq on plasti-dip's site says , do not use in high humidity), but i am having horrible luck getting my plasti dip smooth looking. I have done the gas cap like 3x's now and it always starts to bubble up kind of peach fuzz looking texture. Are you guys some how sanding it between coats?
My technique that so far is not working
1. clean chrome part with mineral spirits and then ammonia free glass cleaner
2. do not touch it with my fingers once clean
3. first coat, I hold the can 12-16" away and spray in strokes and lightly cover the chrome piece with a light coat
4. wait 30 minutes and come back and spray from 12" away and lightly cover the chrome piece again. This is when I see this peach fuzz type texture appear
5. wait 30 minutes and do the same thing as step 4.
6. come back and get pissed that it's all fuzzy and wonder if it's the heat and humidity here in texas
7 strip off plasti dip with mineral spirits and try again.
I am using the spray like i was spray paint anything else. Very smooth strokes not letting off the nozzle till I am past the piece i am painting during my stroke.
My technique that so far is not working
1. clean chrome part with mineral spirits and then ammonia free glass cleaner
2. do not touch it with my fingers once clean
3. first coat, I hold the can 12-16" away and spray in strokes and lightly cover the chrome piece with a light coat
4. wait 30 minutes and come back and spray from 12" away and lightly cover the chrome piece again. This is when I see this peach fuzz type texture appear
5. wait 30 minutes and do the same thing as step 4.
6. come back and get pissed that it's all fuzzy and wonder if it's the heat and humidity here in texas
7 strip off plasti dip with mineral spirits and try again.
I am using the spray like i was spray paint anything else. Very smooth strokes not letting off the nozzle till I am past the piece i am painting during my stroke.
Reduce your temps or change your frequency of coats. Most paints are dry-time rated at 70f degrees. For every 10 degrees it gets hotter, you cut the dry time in half, for ever temp cooler, you double it. Under about 50 degrees your chemical reactions more or less stop. This is ambient temps or surface temps. A few years ago, I had to completely repaint a car that I had just painted because I rolled the car out into the sunlight too early.
If one has an attached garage, open the door to the house, turn a fan on and, let the AC cool it down. *or* do like me and put a 2 ton window unit in the garage and not sweat it.
There's a very good video on YouTube which shows some guy doing his rims with Plasti-dip on a Tahoe...you might want to shoot one of yours first. It might save some $$ and it appears like a straight forward DIY job.
I finally got around to tackling this project this weekend. Following the instructions here ( and not less then a half-dozen of the lessons learned ) everything went fine. Despite this being one of the older threads, it's stuff like this that make this community special.
EDITED and added some photos. . . easy project following all the advice.
Thanks.
EDITED and added some photos. . . easy project following all the advice.
Thanks.
Last edited by BP K9 Miami; Sep 25, 2011 at 11:26 AM.
To take off the gas cap, there is a tab on the upper inside of the gas cap. Pry outward and rotate the gas cap at the same time. The gas cap should break free afterwards.
Here is a video on how its done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDrOy...layer_embedded
Here is a video on how its done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDrOy...layer_embedded
Also found an alternate way to remove the tail light rings. Instead of a small screw driver, I used the corner of a credit card. Just slip the corner in between the ring and the tail light, bend the card slightly for more leverage and pry gently. You will hear the clips pop one at a time. Repeat this around the light and the entire thing will be off in no time.
Clear coat over plasti dip
Hi, im from the UK but this topic seems to be much more discussed on this American forum... so here i am 
I am also looking at painting my headlight rings, grille surrounds and spotlights black with plasti dip. But i want to make them gloss black, according to the plasti dip UK website http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/in...oating&stage=1 you can apply this clear coat and it does it. Im assuming since it comes in a tin you paint it on.
Has anyone used or heard of using this?
Thanks

I am also looking at painting my headlight rings, grille surrounds and spotlights black with plasti dip. But i want to make them gloss black, according to the plasti dip UK website http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/in...oating&stage=1 you can apply this clear coat and it does it. Im assuming since it comes in a tin you paint it on.
Has anyone used or heard of using this?
Thanks
+1. I had similar results when "dusting" it form far away. Moved closer to achieve the "wet" look and all was GTG. Don't give up!
I so want to black out all the chrome bits on my MCS. But not sure if I should use plasti dip or factory Jet Black 668 to match the roof and mirror caps? I already have two spray cans of the Jet Black from when I owned a Jet Black e46 325xi. What do you guys think?
Headlight rings, side scuttles, A-panels, door handles, fuel door, tail rings, boot lid grip, and hood scoop are what I want to paint black.
Does the plasti dip match the black trim already on the car?
Headlight rings, side scuttles, A-panels, door handles, fuel door, tail rings, boot lid grip, and hood scoop are what I want to paint black.
Does the plasti dip match the black trim already on the car?
Last edited by mikeyb74; Mar 28, 2012 at 08:41 AM.
mikeyb74,
Hi I am new to all of this mini mod's
I am currently blacking out my 09 chili red Hard top. I am doing gloss black to match the top. I thought about the plasti-dip, but I did not want the flat look.
I am stripping the chrome off of the plastic myself. Regular paint does not stick very well to chrome.
I think it may take me a bit longer but the end result will be much nicer.
To strip off chrome all you need is a bucket that the parts will fit into and some bleach. I have some pool type that is 2X stronger than house hold bleach. I found the info on a model car forum. After the process is complete I should have a clean raw plastic part ready for paint.
I will post more as I progress.
Hi I am new to all of this mini mod's
I am currently blacking out my 09 chili red Hard top. I am doing gloss black to match the top. I thought about the plasti-dip, but I did not want the flat look.
I am stripping the chrome off of the plastic myself. Regular paint does not stick very well to chrome.
I think it may take me a bit longer but the end result will be much nicer.
To strip off chrome all you need is a bucket that the parts will fit into and some bleach. I have some pool type that is 2X stronger than house hold bleach. I found the info on a model car forum. After the process is complete I should have a clean raw plastic part ready for paint.
I will post more as I progress.
So...I went to tackle this DIY today. It was in the high 60s and sunny when I did this. Everytime I sprayed the chrome bits there would end up being spots that would bubble like there was to much sprayed on the parts. I followed the directions on the back of the can. Luckily I could peel off the plastic dip. I take it there is a learning curve to spraying paint. I've never really used spray paint. Rustoluem on step bars and a brush guard does not really count. So I'll be trying this again this coming weekend.
Last edited by mikeyb74; May 6, 2012 at 07:46 PM.
Update on my black out.
So the bleach did not work as well as I had hoped.
Plan B: I have connections at a local plating shop, they were able to soak off the chrome in the nitric acid tank.
this worked very well, I have fresh plastic parts to lay down my paint. I had one part that the clips had broken off so I was able to test on this one first.
NOTE: best to remove all of the plastic tabs, I left the one that screws go into and they melted away, different kind of plastic.
I had to strip and repaint the headlight rings, I got in a hurry and the paint was not fully cured, left fingerprints. we finnaly have weather in the 70's so I am hoping to have finished in the next week.
The wife keeps giving me a bad time about my car missing parts and looking like crap.
So the bleach did not work as well as I had hoped.
Plan B: I have connections at a local plating shop, they were able to soak off the chrome in the nitric acid tank.
this worked very well, I have fresh plastic parts to lay down my paint. I had one part that the clips had broken off so I was able to test on this one first.
NOTE: best to remove all of the plastic tabs, I left the one that screws go into and they melted away, different kind of plastic.
I had to strip and repaint the headlight rings, I got in a hurry and the paint was not fully cured, left fingerprints. we finnaly have weather in the 70's so I am hoping to have finished in the next week.
The wife keeps giving me a bad time about my car missing parts and looking like crap.
Just dipped my TL rings today on my '12 MCS
I used the credit card method, which I recommend. Take an old plastic card and wedge the corner up against the clips, and it will pop right out.
And this is what you'll see:

New on the left, old on the right:

both done:

detail:
I used the credit card method, which I recommend. Take an old plastic card and wedge the corner up against the clips, and it will pop right out.
And this is what you'll see:

New on the left, old on the right:

both done:

detail:





