I ended up skipping the VGS for now. I might consider it down the road.
I am also thinking about putting in a different boost gauge. I have the Boost gauge that registers 15psi from the OEM Auxiliary Gauge Kit. However I am hesitant to buy a new boost gauge because I really don't like the back lighting unless I get an electronic gauge.

 

hi,

how are you guys routing the vacuum tubing from behind the gauge to the firewall? Are most people punching a hold throught the rubber cover behind the steering wheel and running the tubing to the firewall grommet through there?

 

exactly, there is a small rubber grommet, about 1" diameter with a small nipple on the ned. Punch a hole in the grommet and route the vacuum tubing through the fire wall that way. You will need to reach up under the dash and to the left to find the tube where it came there. best to have a friend wiggle it on their end so you can feel for movement.

 

Yep, that's what I did too.

 

no , i don't mean the firewall access grommet. I already have the tubing going through that. I was referring to how to route the tubing from the back of the gauge to the firewall grommet from inside the car.

 

I just installed a gauge and I am only getting reading up to 0psi also. It won't read positive boost even when I floor it. I've tapped in to the location under the passenger side supercharger horn as well.

Anyone ever find a resolution to this?

 

will be doing this soon

 

ditto. and STUPENDOUS write up. i don't see how this could cause any problems.

btw, does anyone know the stock boost pressure on a nice cold day?

 

First of all, thanks for the great write up.

Second, HEEEELP!! I installed an Auto Meter gauge (the smaller one) and when I was putting everything back together I noticed a little spark when I plugged the tach back in. When I started the car, the boost gauge worked great by my tach is dead, also the little info screen on the bottom of the tach. The only thing that does work is the light when I turn the headlights on.

I just finished reading 14 pages and no one seems to have experienced this problem... is is possible that I hit some electronics when I screwed the bracket to the back of the tack??

I assumed it was ok as I believe many people used tap screws on the back of the tach.

Anybody?

 

That doesn't sound good. It sounds like the screws that you used were too long and damaged the circuit board. You probably need a new tachometer, but back out those screws and check all fuses before giving up hope.

 

If anyone is still reading - I found the solution to my problem - I had tapped the wrong line. All is well now.

 

For euro spec cars.. Right hand drive. Would i be safe to assume with wiring loom on the right hand side under the steering wheel that the red and white (grey) is the same as the left hand drive side ?

 

Great writeup!! I didn't really want to spend the $200+ on some of the electric boost gauge "kits" I've seen...so this looks like a much cheaper option.

I just ordered the 2-5/8 Autometer boost gauge and gauge pod from Summit Racing. I think it was under $80 for everything, and free shipping!

This writeup is going to come in handy when I start to hook it up!!

**update** I don't see how you guys are using the the mount that comes with the gauge cup.....it puts the gauge right up into the dash, and doesn't give the clamp for the gauge cup much of anything to squeeze on since you have to push the gauge so far forward. I'm going to have to fabricate an extension bracket in order to get the gauge up off of the dash a little.....it will also allow me to tilt the wheel fully up, which I can't do with the stock gauge mount because the gauge is too close to the dash. This install is going to take a little more time than I thought......

 

hello DarkMiniCooperS

One of your pictures on this description hasn't showed up.. would u be able to load the picture back on it as i would like to see it and how u fitted it to the back of the rev counter.

 

to the op thanks for the diy. my install turned out great

 

I guess the price of plastic has increased since 2006?!
The gauge alone is $70 these days!

Cheapest I'm finding is $65... Anyone found one better priced?

 

You get what you pay for. Cheaper kits will have flimsier mounts that will flex around and generally look/sound/wear like crap. I think Alta gauge cups have gotten some bad reviews, for example.

 

I looked up the exact same product as the OP suggested... Not looking for a cheap option, just staring that I think that original post should be updated - You can't do it for under $70 anymore... It's $100 now.

 

Gas is a lot more expensive now than in '06, that alone might be driving the prices up as the warehouses have to make up for their overhead...did you try Summit? This post was only a few months ago:

 

Yep... $65 plus $20 for the pod and another $12 for the amber bulb.
They're are still the best price around, even under cutting eBay!

 

Put the Boost Gauge in last night.






A few tips and tricks for the people with Navigation or Chrono:
1) Use a 2 1/16" boost gauge not the 2 5/8". Perfect size to be visible from seat if hanging of the left side of factory gauges.
2) If you use the Auto Meter gauge pod, you will need to trim the mounting bracket so the pod portion can swivel and angle correctly. Easy with a dremel. Screws to back of factory tach with an extended screw.

General Tips:
1) Matching amber lighting - just cut the tip off the supplied red light bulb condom. matches perfectly for free.
2) Tap the grey/pink wire right in the factory gauge cluster connector, easiest location in my opinion.
3) Use the "Alta" method to get boost pressure tap, very easy and no need to pull off intercooler. Directions on Alta website.

 

My tach and speedo (chrono pack) have no screw holes in the back of them. Recessed areas are there but no holes. I just want to double check that people are screwing a self tapping screw through the rear of the tach to mount gauges.

Well now I feel dumb. I actually removed the speedo and tach and see there are recessed screws.

 

Install question...

I have an autometer mechanical boost vacuum gauge... Im trying to look at the alta guide on how to install the T-fitting but a little confused...

which one goes to the back of the boost gauge?

since on the T fitting
#1 side would go to intake manifold
#2 goes to the tube that was taken out of that manifold
#3 goes to that vaccum space going to the intake

wiring the light is a little different too since I think their gauge have extra wires because fo the color options unlike the autometer which has + & -
but that part is not a big deal , Im just curious if I can tap on any wires underneath the steering column or by the OBD plug instead of the wires for the tach or fuse box..

on the fuse box cables tap ... is grey/red cable after the fuse? I just want to make sure that where im connecting my wires is still fused up

 

I know this post is waaaay old but I want to thank DarkMiniCooperS, wherever you are! Great write up, I ordered the parts today and hopefully will be installing this w/e. Thanks again!

__________________
I'm a Cybernetic Organism; living tissue over a metal endoskeleton.

'04 JCW BRG R53 "14 Ball" (New graphic in process)
'08 JCW Sidewalk PW/B "Katie"

 

I realize this thread is old, but I was considering doing this mod to my '06 R53 this weekend, and the Alta method description is throwing me for a loop. They say there is a "port on passenger side of vehicle under intake manifold" and include a picture of what looks like a vacuum hose grommet and they outline the shape in red.

On my R53, I have a similar looking grommet in a similar spot, but mine doesn't seem to be "under" the manifold so much as it's just next to it. Also, it seems to have the smaller hose on the opposite end of what they picture, going towards the engine block, not out and away from it. Here are a few pics I just took of the grommet I found: