Hey folks!

As promised here is the latest installment of my install how-tos. The .pdf with photos is below! Also, I have after photos being posted tomorrow (I hope. I need to wash the car! Damn rain!)

Please let me know how I can ever help any of you with your MINI's!

Thanks again!

NARRATIVE ONLY:

Here we go again! Time for more mods on “Howard” my faithful MINI! As many of you have already realized, the factory ride height is simply OUT OF BOUNDS! Way to high! This not only reduces handling ability, but just looks lame.

To solve this problem for a reasonable price and great ride quality I looked to H&R Sport Springs. They rate the drop on these springs at 1.4” front and rear. Just enough drop to remove that lifted stance. Again, thank the UPS driver for the box, grab your favorite set of metric hand tools and off we go!

For this project you will need the following:
Factory Service Manual for details not shown here (This is a general assembly guide and NOT a substitute for the Service Manual) This is also needed for torque specs. Check online for free resources!
5mm Allen wrench (I prefer those with a handle)
14mm Combination Wrench
13mm sockets (mid or deep)
16mm socket
17mm socket
18mm socket
rachets
Marking pen (I prefer silver)
Hydraulic Jack
Jack Stands (2)

Optional (but highly recommended):
Impact Wrench (air or electric)
Spring Compressors

Starting with the rear:
Raise the car onto jack stands.

Then remove both rear wheels. ( I place them under the car for additional protection). Now the fun part!

In the photo above you can see the upper two 13mm bolts and the ABS wheel sensor cables connected to the strut assembly. Simply pull the wires out of the strut (carefully.) Then loosen and remove the bolt at the bottom of the strut that connects it to the trailing arm (not shown.) Then simply remove the two bolts at the top of the strut securing it to the body. (NOTE: This will fall out! So hold it as you loosen the last bolt. BE CAREFUL not to let it hit the wires and damage them! This will be EXPENSIVE to repair.) If you are adventurous repeat this on the other side before disassembling the strut assembly themselves.

Now mark each strut hat to a reference point top and bottom. This is crucial for alignment when re-assembling each strut. Failure to follow this step will drive you nuts! You will see below I used a straight edge to make a silver grease pen mark on the top hat that lined up with the bracket for the ABS lines.

Now using a spring compressor (not shown) secure the spring. Or if you are a risk taker like me simply remove the nut on top using the allen wrench and combination wrench.

Now you have this mess!

Note the order of washers, hats etc. The washer I am pointing too is CRUCIAL! Do not forget to get that in the right spot, the weight of the vehicle rests on it! Now simply slide off the OEM spring and exchange it for the H&R Spring. Now simply bolt back together. Be sure to align the top with the bottom using those marks you made previously. Now bolt each strut assembly back into the car and tighten the hardware removed during disassembly. Tighten each to OEM spec. Attach the wheels etc. That was easy right? Let the car off the jackstands and head to the front. Now lets head onto the front!

As with the back, raise the car onto jack stands, remove the wheels etc.

Now remove the 16mm nut that secures the endlink to the swaybar. This is FAR easier to access from the bottom of the link vs. the top. I used a 16mm rachet wrench and an allen wrench to loosen this. Way easy!

Now moved the brake lines and ABS lines from the strut. They don’t need to be disconnected, but just slid out of the retainers. Then remove the single bolt that secures the strut to the steering knuckle. Then rotate the steering knuckle down and away from the strut. Rotating the strut back and the knuckle forward will ease the removal. Then loosen and remove the three nuts on top and drop the strut out.

Then rinse and repeat! I recommend doing the other side at the same time to ease removal.

Now for the non-safety moment of the week. I don’t have a spring compressor at home so I aimed away from face, used my trusty Snap-On Impact wrench and blasted away! (This actually sounds far worse than it is! But DO take care to prevent damage to your most important asset(s) you and any bystanders, pets, wildlife etc.!)

Get ready…………here she goes! Now the photo shows exactly how far things went. (You will see not far!)

Simply place the rubber half ring on the lower portion of the strut, place the H&R spring in place of the OEM, then place the rubber dust boot/bump stop combo on, the spring hat, strut bearing washer, and finally the upper strut bearing. Grab your impact wrench and put it back together!

Now for the hard part! The passenger side is kind of a bear to get the strut back in and the steering knuckle back onto it. Just grin and bear it! Also, the strut hats have alignment pins that reference into the body. Be sure to line those up on both sides.

Then simply reinstall all the hardware removed previously. Torque each to spec! Then reinstall the wheels and lower from the jack stands. It may be easier to place blocks under the tires to allow easier removal of the hydraulic jack.

On your test drive leave that radio off! Listen for any odd noises etc emanating from the car. If so immediately address those! (It will be a rare occasion!)

Then before putting any serious miles on your car, make an appointment with your local alignment shop. They will adjust the toe and camber settings to match the OEM. This will improve handling and SERIOUSLY lengthen tire life as well.

ENJOY! This is one of the best improvements to your MINI you will EVER make! Good luck! Happy Motoring!

ADAMSALTAMINI
Adam.taft@altaminiperformance.com

 

Hey Adam.

If you have the opportunity, would you post you toe and camber measurements once you get everything aligned. I'm curious how close to stock you're able to get with the stock links.

 

Adam,

How's the ride compared to stock ? Will they fit a '07 MC hardtop without sport suspension as well ? Do you carry these springs and if so what's the cost ?

 

I have them too, good write up Adam! The springs rock, I have sport suspension as well but these will work with the non sport suspension as well. I had a ridiculously agressive alignment done and have -.7 degrees of camber F and -2.1 degrees of camber in the rear. They set my toe pretty agressively too, I don't have the alignment report in front of me. I love these H&Rs, absolutely love them. Don't forget to pick up some Alta Endlinks too. I also got the alta rear lower control arm A++++

 

Any pics of this set-up?

 

I'll get some today, I've been a little under the weather lately.

 

msh441: Will do! From past experience the front will be slightly out of spec for camber as there is no factory adjustment. Toe is more critical here and can certainly be adjusted back to stock. The rear camber bolts can get close to stock at this level of drop. The use of our adjustable control arms can get it perfect! (More on those later.)

mini_matt: Yes they fit sport or non-sport suspension model coupes. Ride quality is EXCELLENT overall. The only time it is firmer than stock is on HUGE chuck holes etc. (Which I recommend steering clear of anyway!)

Thanks guys! Photos soon!

 

That was a great PDF. Well done, very helpful!

 

thirdraildesignlab: Glad I could help! Let me know if you have any questions etc. when you do your install!

 

Mine are due here tomorrow from you, Adam. Looking forward to getting them installed.

 

Howard needs to come out and take a bow for the peanut gallery.

 

CCM: Glad they will be there soon! When are you putting them on?

JCW Driver: I will try to shoot some photos for the peanut gallery tonight! When is the next run?

 

Thanks for the writeup. 2 questions:
1) Is there a service manual available for the R56 from MINI and if so what would I expect to pay?
2) I've got a 4 post lift at home and it's got a trolley jack with arms that are similar to most shop lifts and I use the rubber jack points to support the car. But in the photo where you elude to lifting the rear with a floor jack I found myself asking the question, where does one place the jack bucket when there's no rear axle or subframe? Sorry, I'm new to FWD cars.

 

KarlInsanDiego: Good questions! The four post is just fine. When I use the hydraulic jack in the rear, I place it against the subfram where the lower control arm meets it. So using what you have put one on each side in the back. Front is similar, just place them directly under the front subframe. BUT... if you can raise the car using the jacks under the rubber jack points. That is a-ok too as that is basically what I do with the jack stands. The key is getting the suspension to hang. Service details are available online in several places (i need to check where from Jeff at work but I know they are out there.) Also, if needed in a pinch the R53 book should be nearly identical for this procedure.

BTW: Love your car! The kit makes the car! Keep those arches BLACK! Love the contrast.

Thanks!

ALSO: Pics added!

 

So those photos are "before"???

 

Photos are after! The R56 sits WAY up in the air from the factory. NOW it looks like it should be!

Thanks for looking!

 

After. But I can attest that the H&R's take a couple weeks to settle completely.

 

I thought it looked lower than stock, but I thought maybe you got lucky and had a decent factory stance.

I wish this shiz didn't (potentially) void the factory warranty. I'd be all over it. Wheel well gaps SUCK!!!

Car looks hot like fire BTW! Love it!

 

Thanks for the compliment! The warranty isn't voided on the entire car or anything. Only on the springs removed and possibly the strut assembly. But a RARE occasion for an issue. Thanks again! Enjoy your new car! The wait must be killing you!

 

I've heard stories from friends with BMWs that they (just like every other car manufacturer) use any excuse they can to void the factory warranty if you've altered the car in any way, shape, or form.

However if the only thing the warranty would be void on is the stock springs and shocks, who freakin' cares! I'll of course have to confirm this with my MA and the service dept., but maybe I'll be droppin' my MINI after all! Never had a brand new car under full factory warranty before, so I'm a little apprehensive about modding it.

The wait on my car is most definitely killing me. And it's only been 2 weeks since I ordered! I still have at least 5 or 6 more to go!!!

Hopefully my antenna from you guys will get here soon. That should get me through another week or so. Then my Whalen Shift Machine will come, which will be good for another week or 2. So really I only have 2 or 3 weeks of biding my time until my baby arrives!!!

 

Hey Adam. My springs arrived today and installed them this afternoon. Rides as good (or better) then stock.And I think it looks great! Off to the alignment shop Friday morning.Thank you for your effort and the quick service.

 

Looks AWESOME! Congrats! Totally transforms the car. Now you need some 5mm spacers all around! (I REALLY LIKE THAT KIT, AND ARCHES PAINTED ON THAT COLOR! YIKES it looks GOOD!)

Thanks again!

 

Are you guys replacing the front sway bar endlinks with adjustable ones as well or are the stock ones ok for length ?

 

I am going to install ours SOON. I have a write up pending in my computer right now for the rear bar and endlinks. I may just do the front links on the same chart. I will let you know!

Thanks again!

 

how close to stock can you get the alignment, and is tire wear even after lowering, or are you getting premature wear on the inside edges? Love the handling and stance of a lowered car, but just tired of going through tires like a turkey at thanksgiving.