Hey guys! Couple things:

You SHOULD always have an alignment done after a spring installation, or strut replacement. The front is especially important to correct the toe. Greatly affects handling and tire wear.

The rear is adjustable for camber from the factory on 2005.5+ models. For lowering springs you won't need more than that. If you lower the car beyond that (generally with coilovers or cup kits) you MAY need arms but check with the alignment shop first.

Hope that helps!

 

Thank you Adam,

I may just end up using your guide to install the springs myself. Just wanted to clear things up a bit to make sure i didnt put the springs on then turns out I needed to get more parts in order to get the car running/handling properly.

I ended up going with the H&R 1.4" drop from you guys by the way

 

Hey thanks! Post up the pics when you get it done! Congrats in advance on a successful project!

 

Adam, great write up! I little tip for the rest of the people, when you don't have a spring compressor wrap the spring/shock assembly in a towel and then take off the top nut, the towel will keep everything together and you won't go searching for bits and pieces.

Used this write up for mine today to install my TSW spings,

Note 1, ensure your wrench kit has a 16mm wrench as most of them jump from 15mm to 17mm.

Note 2, If you are having problems with the tie rod end removal, leave the socket on the nut with the nut loosened and smack the top of the socket with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet and it will drop loose, remove the nut and you are home free. If you hit the nut directly you may damage the self locking tabs on the nut and you will need to buy a new one.

 

david: Glad I was able to help you! Also both of your tips are good ones too. 16 / 18mm wrenches aren't always in the standard kits people buy.

If I can ever help in the future, PLEASE let me know!

 

Adam, great instructions! BTW would you happen to have the torque specifications for each nut and bolt or rather the most important components in ft-lbs? Thanks :]

 

Adam what is your position on cutting the bump stops? It's not in your instructions.

 

I am sorry I don't have them. There is some variance on each year. Best to look it up in the service manual or other online source. Good luck with the installation!

I don't trim them with the H&R. But if you are using these instructions for other brands you would want to follow the instructions included with them.

Hope that helps!!!!

Thanks folks!!!


Adam @ ALTA Performance

 

Do you really have to undo the ball joint to remove the front strut? cant you just loosen the pinch bolt and end link then just pull it up and out?

 

THANKS for asking! There must be some confusion as I don't mention to remove the lower ball joint. Just the pinch bolt. You do need to remove the endlink joint to the control arm and strut though.

Sorry for any confusion!

 

Thanks sooo much for this DIY, very helpful in my install a couple weeks ago! However I do have a comment or two =)

1.) For the front struts the guide just says: Grab your impact wrench and put it back together!...I think it needs to be mentioned that those hex nuts at the top of each strut need to be tightened down with an allen in the middle. Putting mine back together they only went so far with the impact and would just turn the shock when I turned the nut...thankfully I was able to tighten these down from the engine bay after being installed on the car! I woulda been sooo if I had to remove them again to tighten up.

2.) For rookie installers such as myself; be careful and don't put too much muscle into loosening/tightening upper strut bolts! I was an idiot and sheared a rear upper by turning it the wrong way...which took upwards of 20+ hours and $260 to get removed.

Great guide though, very happy with mine

 

Thanks for the write up! Just got done installing NM Springs an my goodness what a b*tch it is to get the struts out of a rusted hub carrier... Of course it was the last strut I had to do as well! Haha, but all is done and the end result is awesome! (after a day and a half!!!!)

Here are some torque numbers to complete the thread

Front:
18mm pinch clamp bolt - 60ft-lb
top three nuts - 25ft-lb (hand tight)
Endlink to shockbody - 41ft-lb

Rear:
Top two bolts - 41ft-lb
Lower mounting bolt - 103ft-lb

I got these numbers from the M7 coilover install guide so don't blame me if you don't think it's tight enough

 

Here is mine sitting on H&R springs and spacers! I think it came out real well... I got the parts from ALTA.. after talking to a rep. (might have been you Adam??) while I was in A-Stan.. then I put them on while I was on R&R.. I may have been able to go wider on the spacers but I think it looks great.. and it rides better than factory with out the discomfort of coilovers... the only problem is the wife still wants to drive it Wheel and tire specs. are in my sig.... hope this helps!

One bit of advice.. if it wasn't covered already... once you have the springs installed and back on the car... don't forget to take the e-brake off... because the back end won't go down if you don't... I took the rear shocks out and reassembled them, put them back in, called ALTA... They told me to drive it around a bit... I was like but as soon as I let the brake go before backing up... well you can guess the rest!

 

thank you thank you! I was having so much trouble getting the drop link off. I love pictures.