Completely unrelated to each other as well.

1. Double shifting...whats it for? Isn't it just more wear and tear on the clutch?

2. When I get coilovers eventually. Do I really need camber plates? I know I won't be doing a lot of autocrosses or track days. Maybe just every once and a while. So are they really necessary?

 

for 1), "Double Clutching" was mostly used before Synchros. It was a way to match engine speed to transmission speed between shifts. It's not something you're going to need to worry about, since you have a modern gearbox and you're not driving a Semi-Truck. It's the upshifting parallel to heel-toe downshifting.

I don't know about 2, but I'm sure someone on here does.

 

No, camber plates aren't integral to coilover suspension. But if you are trying to build a suspension that doesn't simply look good but also performs well then they are the only way to have adequate adjustment of your front suspension geometry.

 

Regarding question 2.
You'll probably get better responses in the "mods" forum, but the answer is maybe. It depends on:

• How much your coilovers drop the body (i.e which coilovers and how much lower?)
• How close to spec you want to return your alignment. Some people have been able to get back to spec without camber plates. Some like running the negative camber. There is some adjustment in the struts. YMMV.

You can always do this incrementally. Get the coilovers. Go get an alignment and be prepared to have them recommend/require plates.

Do plan on getting some rear control arms to get the rear wheels back to spec alignment. These are less avoidable.

 

Yeah thats what I thought. Heel and toe shifting is all a guy needs to do. I have just seen a lot of youtube videos where guys seem to think that double clutching is an integral part of driving manual.

 

Well, consider your source...

YouTube is full of misinformation, (in video form).

 

I plead ignorance, why is double clutching bad.... I had two previous sticks 87 chevy s10 and 94 tercel and coasted to a stop light in neutral. If it turned green I would shift into whatever gear is needed. Granted these are older cars so if anyone has info on it being bad on a mini I would appreciate it.

 

That's not exactly "Double Clutching". Double clutching would be more like while rapidly upshifting, pausing for a second mid-shift and letting out the clutch to let the engine slow down, pressing down the clutch again, then shifting into gear and releasing again. Thus pressing/releasing the clutch twice for each shift.

It just causes undue wear on your clutch plates and it accomplishes the same thing that the synchros are there for, matching engine and transmission speed.

 

.......answers that question

 

Then what I'm doing doesn't hurt the clutch I assume?

 

The technically correct answer is the less you use the clutch the less wear on its parts.
On bikes and cars I downshift as I get to the light, then have the vehicle in neutral while waiting (foot/hand on brake, obviously).

I restore vintage BMWs and can attest that holding the clutch in while waiting causes wear.

 

Nope, you're just coasting in Neutral. No problem with that.

 

Thanks guys, my dad taught me stick many moons ago and this will be my first stick in 10 years so I'm trying to remember all the details, but it is like riding a bike.

 

General rules:

Brakes are for slowing

Downshifting is for going after slowing (being in the right gear for subsequent acceleration), or slowing if your brakes fail. Period. Anything else is "road dancing" - and I do it too. It's fun, can be obnoxious (downshifting to a stop - without a sequential racing gearbox - is somewhat silly) and yep, I admit I do it, so let's not argue.

Coasting in neutral should be done with some caution in case acceleration may be needed, in which case stay in gear. Neutral coasting is/was actually ILLEGAL in some states! It's common practice, not bad for the car, and (as anything) done with care works great.

Standing still = neutral, unless "launch" is imminent.

Coasting in gear uses less gas than coasting in neutral since the fuel is shut completely off to the engine. Yes, that's true - and a sensitive butt dyno can even feel the point when the fuel kicks back in just as the car speed and engine speed match up. Yes, it causes some (negligible) wear on the powertrain compared to coasting in neutral. No, I don't really care, it's just interesting.

Enjoy! The Mini, driven well, is a very rewarding road dance partner.

 

Camber plates aren't a "necessity", rear lower control arms are-when the Mini is being lowered that is. Unless the drop is severe, the front end won't see much change in camber when lowered. The rear however, will be obvious.