Im having some intermittent trouble with my cooling fan. Twice now ive had the problem of it staying on after my car is off (no its not over heating and no im not low on coolant and yes it works fine stage1/stage2 after it fixes its self) Both times it would stay on until i unplugged it but then about a day later it would go back to working properly. Ive read just about everything i could find about that resistor problem but if mine was really burnt out it wouldn't fix its self or would it? I guess it could be and intermittent fault in the resistor but that seems unlikely to me and since i have no experience with electritioning i feel know what im talking about..... It seems more likely that the fault lies with the thermostat/switch/solenoid or what ever tells the fan to turn on/off.

I know i can get a new resistor for about $50 and a entire new fan for around $150. However, i dont really want to tear the front half of my car apart or go cutting and soldering stuff....cause im lazy. So im looking for a easier/cheaper fix.

Can w/e this controlling device is stick or is it most certainly the resistor? Can anyone shed a bit more light on what this might be (and it better be cheap!)?

Any help/tips are much appreciated!

Thanks!

 

Fan on while engine off can be both normal & not. Your hi-speed fan's relay could be sticking. With your car's age, you ,most likely, have a burnt resistor too if your low speed doesn't turn on w/ the A/C. You'll get high instead that would turn on & off after every few seconds. Check & replace both your resistor (w/ Dorman or Arcol from Mouser electronics) & your relay (w/OEM). A link to the resistor fix:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-solution.html

Here's how our cooling system works:

Thermostat begins to open at 89-92° C (192° F - 198° F) and is fully open at 103° C (217° F).

Expansion Tank Cap Cap pressurizes the system to 1.1 bar (16 psi) at which point the cap valve will lift to relieve pressure.

Cooling Fan

Radiator Fan is a nine bladed fan measuring 400mm in diameter, driven by a 350 watt motor controlled by the EMS2000.

Low speed is switched on at 105°C (221° F) coolant temp and off when the temperature drops to 101°C (214° F).

High speed is switched on at 112° C (234° F) and remains on until the system coolant temperature drops by 4° C (7.2° F, so @ around 227F) at which point the system will revert to Low Speed.

The cooling fan will also operate on Low Speed when the Air Conditioning is switched on and system pressure reaches 8 bar (116 psi). Should the Air Conditioning system pressure rise to 18 bar (261 psi), the fan will automatically run on the High Speed.

 

@minsanity-

Thanks for your explanation. However after it fixed its self this past friday afternoon, by sitting in a hot driveway for about 8 hours, i immediately tested the fan to make sure it still worked and didnt just burn out. I turned the car on and left it stationary with the a/c on, after probably 10-15 seconds the fan kicked on in what appeared to be stage 1. Im calling it stage 1 cause it was a lot quieter then when it was running before with the engine off (while it was faulty). I had to look at the blades to make sure it was on cause i barely heard it over the engine noise. When the problem was apparent the fan would turn on and be fairly loud, very audible from inside the cabin, even on a cold engine that sat all night. Again this is without any key in the ignition, just reconnecting the big plug on the driver side of the housing.

As for replacing anything Im far more likely to buy an entire new fan assembly then just a resistor, like you said the whole thing is 10 years old, so mine as well replace the whole part since i can get it all for $150ish. I just want to avoid the chance of replacing the fan assembly and having the problem persist due to a faulty relay and then having to dig around more to fix what was really broke. I need to replace an engine mount anyway so digging around in the engine compartment is unavoidable. Passenger engine mount is still intact after 10 years (no cracks and still holding oil, just showing "wear") so lets assume the engine was babied and in great shape before i started racing it around every day.

So i guess im asking, where is the relay that controls the fan? Is it included in the assembly that is available aftermarket for about $150 or is it a separate part? Is there a way i can test it with a multi-meter or something?

My other theory is that Loki, my mini, is just angry with me for spending far more time over the last two weeks with my new straight razor hobby then with him and he is doing this in a desperate plea for attention. As soon as i had resigned myself to buying a new fan, engine mount and probably a CAI he fixed himself..........just a theory

 

You still have the 2-plug harness fan. The high-speed relay for your 02 (PN 61368373700, if I recall right) is in the fan assembly right under the top rad hose, nearer the passenger side. Replacement requires fan assembly extraction. That relay is prone to intermittent sticking that's why you get it randomly. This was transferred to the fuse box sometime in 03. My workaround was to wire a kill switch to the wire that constantly gives power even when key is out. Works like a charm.

As for fan assembly, OE is pricey & hasn't any improvement done on the relay & resistor. The motor holds up very well though, hence people just milk the life out by replacing or bypassing the resistor. Guys mostly get this resistor w/ PN:284-HS100-0.33 from Mouser.com & wire it remotely. Dorman has a direct replacement that looks to be an improved one.

If you're looking for replacement assemblies, people have had luck w/ TYC & Dorman from Rockauto. Just be sure you get the 2plug harness.

On your engine mounts, the top passenger side may look good but, it should be up for replacement too. Look up Vibra-Technics & Powerflex engine mount inserts for those.

 

I went a on a cruise with a group of MINIs today and it was a lot of up down hill twisty turnies so a lot of downshifting and keeping high rpms. After the run we all parked and my fan was the only one to go on after we turned all our cars off. It rand for maybe a couple minutes and then turned off. I'm guessing that is normal? What should be replaced if it is overheating?

 

RH, that should be normal if you still have a working 1st stage, no coolant leaks, a good pump & were doing some spirited runs. Those who've lost the 1st stage & run w/o turning the A/C on tend to have this problem more. Remember, A/C triggers the 1st & 2nd stages earlier than temperature does.
If your engine temp upon turning engine off is still above the 2nd stage trigger, our cars' cooling system is designed to run the fan til temps go below the 2nd stage's temp range.

 

If your low speed is working but the fan runs after the car is off, and it does not shut itself off after a couple of minutes, it is a sticking relay. If you tap it and the fan shuts off, it is the relay. Unfortunately with the 2 connector fan, the fan needs to be removed to get at the relay. While I was in there I would install the updated resister assembly as well and you should be good to go for a while as the fan motors themselves never seem to go bad.

///Rich

 

Thanks for all the great tips. I will be replacing the relay and resistor and save the extra cash for some hp oriented mods (CAI or possibly wmw's r53 street performance pack if i can sell my fish tank). Hopefully all will go well and ill get another couple years out of my cooling fan itself.

-minsanity

you mentioned inserts for the upper passenger side motor mount. Thats the x-shaped one right? Are you recommending that i just get the inserts? or that i get inserts in addition to a new oem mount (are there aftermarket options for this mount? i havent seen any). The mount itself looks good as new showing no visible signs of cracking or damage buts its only like $50 so not a huge cost there at least.

Thanks again to everyone !

 

Well forget replacing the resistor too. Its on back order from factory for 11 weeks and the only people have any are charging $50 extra cause they suck i guess. I also cant find any other 100w .33ohm resistors anywhere for w/e reason (im retarded or they dont exist). So im just guna hope that my resistor doesnt decide to blow any time soon.

 

I wasn’t talking about that resistor as you have a two plug and that resister is not the way to go.

But the is a GREAT way to go. It’s available all over the place and even if you replace your fan with OEM, you should install this kit.

///Rich

PS-I think this is my 1000th post. Yea ha!

 

Well this is turning into a crappy day. First the parts i want aren't available. Then I chip my 150yr family heirloom razor AND cut myself. Now from the looks of that amazon link i may have ordered the wrong part from rockauto http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...335&cc=1387874? Thought i couldnt go wrong with them as it said Radiator Fan Relay and looks like the little green cube i thought ive seen blamed for this problem. At least its only 12 bucks shipped. Oh and my key remote is still broke so i prob get to shell out who knows what to get it fixed.

SOB i cant seem to do anything right today. I never should have gotten out of bed this morning . Guess ill spend the rest of the night in a bottle of wild turkey and hope for the best tomorrow.

 

But the external resistor wouldn’t have helped you anyway.

Sounds like it’s time to relax.

You will need that relay as the Dorman resister assembly does not come with it. That green cube is the problem and you can simply replace it, but I suggested and still maintain that you should install the Dorman resistor assembly as well.

I didn’t see that. Are you sure it’s simply not the battery. There are a number of threads describing how to refurbish those.

Try not to cut yourself on the cap of that bourbon. And you can take some comfort that you didn’t wreck any sheet metal.

///Rich

 

Rich - thanks for the detailed info in this thread.

I have the same problem as khor1827. Had the fan stay on a couple of times after turning off, whacked the relay and all was well. Also not sure if my first stage is running or not... I suspect not.

If I go with the Dorman relay kit and the relay from RockAuto I'd still have to get the Mouser resistor or replace the fan assembly to fix my first stage fan right?

Weirdly, I also have a 2002 PS/B R53 and have the same fan problem and similar key problem to khor1287!

 

Rich, the mouser resistor actually works for both fan types. The difference for the 2 plug is that you'd have to remove the fan, extract the burnt green resistor, securely solder 2 wires to the resistor terminals 2 connect w/ the mouser 1 at a preferred remote location. This would be the better option vs the Dorman, as should the resistor fail again, replacing it won't need fan assembly extraction anymore.

Khor, powerflex x motormount inserts reinforce existing mounts. If yours aren't cracked badly, try those inserts together w/ the VibraTechnics passenger side mount. Make sure you get the right model for your build date.
Ebay replacement key fob shells for the early years are actually quite good. If remote is toast, dealer can source & program you a new remote key.

Exo, either get the Dorman or the mouser resistor, not necessarily both. Replace the relay while you're in there.

 

Minsanity - awesome - thanks!

 

The Dorman Relay/Resister kit negates the need for the external resistor. And to date there have been NO reports of the Dorman resister failing.

///Rich

 

I disagree that the external resister is a good alternative for the two plug fans. Go back to the beginning of the “we need a solution” thread and you’ll see I have been there done that. And it requires running wires across the front of the car. Thick wires that will get hot from the inside and out. And the Dorman resister requires none of that but does require a bit of soldering to fit it with the relay. And we have not had one report of failure. And since you have to take the fan out to install the external, why not do it right?

The external is a great solution for the later 1-plug fans. I wish Artoo was in that category. But alas, the Dorman has been working nicely for over a year now on an OEM fan assembly that is about 100,000 miles old at this point.

///Rich

 

True, the Dorman option looks good, but there have been no long term reviews. The external 1 from mouser looks pretty solid, so far. If you do the external resistor on the 2 plug, use at least a 12ga to address the load & heat. Most of my buddies just bypass the resistor all together, getting high speed even when low is called. Fan life is expectedly to be shortened, but then again, a cooler engine & A/C are its benefits. Just pick from the options. Remember to exercise extreme caution when doing electricals.