Just had a 400H and a 300 (exact same but gas version) for about 2 months and logged 1000's of miles on them. It gets the same gas mileage on the highway as the 300. Town is a different story as it would use mainly battery power. Also one thing that I thought was weird with the 400H is that it never seemed to shift gears and the speed is cut out at 220 KM. Good sporty SUV!

So to get back on subject, If the DFIC isn't supposed to be that susceptible to heat soak then why would there be a need to have a sprayer?? Would it really help? -- Johan

 

My application is varied. Because I autox, any intercooler is gonna sit there after a run and heat soak, even with the bonnet up and even with dousing it.

Personally, I thought the DFIC may have been worse in this aspect. It got really hot. The hot engine compartment air couldn't simply rise through the vanes and exit. Unlike the conventional ICs, I couldn't put a layer of ice on it while I was spraying down my tires.

I ended up spraying it from the front and the back between runs.

On the other hand, once you get rolling it cools down pretty quickly. But maybe not fast enough for a short autox lap.

So I would welcome a sprayer.

 

Yes we do have a sprayer in the works, as hornguy said no intercooler
will keep it self cool under the MINI hood. With that said our own Will
is currently testing a new revolutionary product we have been working on for the last couple months, that hopefully give guys like Jim an un-fair
advantage at the autocross......Stay tuned.

peter
Team M7
562-608-8123

 

I'm sure it'll beat this one by a mile so don't make me wait Doc

 

DFIC, stock, Alta, GRS, it doesn't matter, they all have thermal mass and can store heat.

Water has a very high specific heat (amount of energy it takes to raise temps). If the water turns to a gas, the heat of vaporization is very large too. So a small amount of water can cool like a much larger amount of air.

Matt

 

Ah . . . I was thinking of developing a nitrous spray for the intercooler. Arm it in the car and have it turn on at a specific boost pressure.

 

Sound like my internal water/meth injection...only it CAN drop the AIT down below ambient when 10psi is reached

 

The Nitrous IC spray is what I figured Peter was hinting at.

But you also want it with no boost pressure as an option, so you can cool the IC at a start as well (as in autox, or even an impromptu, umm, comparison test at a light.

I'd thought of having a timer option for these sorts of requirements, which could be overidden by boost.

 

I don't think you guys want to use Nitrous to cool the IC...$45 to fill a 10lb bottle and that weighs 24lbs total

If you insist...just go with M7's Venom and aim for 300HP...

 

With little thought behind it, I got 258 wheel HP on the dyno after chilling the intercooler, then spraying on top during the run.

Car went way lean . . . would need a custom tune

 

Nope.......

Not even close, it is a very typical M7 think out of the box solution that will surprise you all.....

peter
Team M7
562-608-8123

 

Well?

We're waiting over here.

Next autox for me is 4 weeks. Will I be using it?

 

Hang on here... Lots of people jumped on dmh for announcing a non-existent DFIC, and now we all want Peter to spill the beans on a new product that he hasn't even described, let alone mentioned availability.
I just picked up my new Canon D400, so I'll give Peter some time to actually test and manufacture this product before bugging him about availability. My financial advisor told me so...!

cheers,

 

co2 would be cheaper and you could rig it to a RPM window switch with a push button to spray when you want. The only problem would be the extra weight of the bottle you would have to a haul around But with a h20 sprayer you need to haul around a tank of water. Maybe worth it though in a small auto-x, I don't konw. -- Johan

 

Too bad we never got to see what what dmh had to offer.

 

I was thinking what if the hood was dished in and had a cutout so that the DFIC just sat out in the open air. Any artists here that could draw that for me so I can send it to my buddy who builds choppers and see if he thinks he can do it.

 

I was and still may convert my Venom NOS system to a CO2 sprayer but there is one big concern. You have to be absolutly sure that no C02 enters the intake path in any way shape or form as it will make you lose more hp than you would have ever gained.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

http://www.cryo2.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=1 is this what you are looking for?

 

I take it a fan system is not realistic?

My take on the DFIC (compared to my GTT experience) is that the DFIC dumps heat much faster while driving but absorbs heat faster when stopped. Simply because heat rises and the DFIC is vertical compared to horizontal.

 

Any new DFIC numbers? Last Saturday, Central Coast Coopers in Oxnard, CA installed a black DFIC (heat dispersant and ceramic coating) with custom silicone boots on my MCS. The throttle response seems better. I can use a higher gear on long freeway grades and the annoying flat-spot at 3,000 RPM is significantly improved. Has there been any objective data that confirms my observations? We have good data on the TE at redline in 2nd gear and the pressure drop at idle thanks to Dr O. Is anyone collecting data on TE and pressure drop under other conditions? It seems like the driving observations are better than what would be predicted based on the available data. Maybe there is some user bias / placebo effect?

 

Yes . . . any more data? I still am not seeing a compelling reason to switch from my current setup, which could use some tweaking.

 

the decision to go from stock to a mod is very different than from one mod to another. The deltas from stock are larger, and you're only thinking of one purchase. If you've already got an aftermarket IC, and are thinking of changing to a different one, the performance delta is less, and the cost of the mod is what it is (plus the depreciation of the first item bought).

For you, with a GRS and an Extreme Scoop, you may want to just spend some time improving the diverter (like Tony did). This won't take much time or money and you will have a system that is better than stock.

If you switch to the DFIC, you'll need to get the scoop painted, and be out about a grand. the older parts will sell so you will get half or more of that back, but it's still a large chunk of change.

What else could you do with that $? This is where it gets messy....

But the short of it is, if you're happy with what you have, why change it?

Matt

 

Great advice . . . thanks

 

I switched from a Alta TMIC to the M7 DFIC. My stock scoop was broken so I used that as the motavation to upgrade to the DFIC as a new scoop is included. I am still waiting for the new scoop to arrive so I am currently running the DFIC with the stock scoop. I noticed a slight loss in max boost (via Autometer boost gage) and no discernable performance gain via the butt dyno.

After selling the Alta TMIC and facturing in the cost of a scoop the switch to the DFIC cost me $250. I hope with the correct scoop I will be able to feel some improvement for the extra $$ spent.

I does make checking the spark plug torque much easier

 

The proper scoop makes all the difference...... I had the stock scoop on the drive to the dragon and was not overly impressed and when the DFIC scoop was installed it came alive.... hopfully your experience will be the same... it is a system