Drivetrain RMS/Webb Motorsports twinscrew
I drive a car with a turbo, and power does come on hard at 3k, but, you know where it hits, you stay above that point, and it's always on. i.e. you use trailbraking, or you use a lower gear to keep in the power range. It just takes a different style of driving. Both definitely have their advantages.
What was this post about??
you guys are deviating so much that I can't seem to know what the earlier post was about.
you want to deal with it, just go have a race on a private mountain road
might help you to cool down.... twinscrew you all.. LoL
you guys are deviating so much that I can't seem to know what the earlier post was about.
you want to deal with it, just go have a race on a private mountain road
might help you to cool down.... twinscrew you all.. LoL
is this right?
"So that's the concept about the twinscrew and throttle position. I can go WOT at 3000rpm and have full boost immediately with the twinscrew. With the eaton, I can go WOT at 3000rpm and full boost is not achieved until I hit my rev limiter. So I can get 17psi boost at 3000rpm instead of having to wait to see 17psi until the rev limiter. Don't get me wrong, you will have boost with the eaton at 3000rpm, just not max boost."
I also heard the autorotors are real screamers. anyone heard one?
regarding Tonyb's comment comparing install time twinscrew vs twincharge: I'm guessing the 'screw will take considerably longer. you have to relocate the alt, r&r the blower and intercooler, drain the coolant, install the new water pump w hose and wiring, install a new belt tensioner, then there is the intake tubing and throttle body fitting, coolant radiator, pump, tank and hoses. I'm guessing around 10-12 hours.
the twincharger involves inserting the turbo manifold turbo and oil lines and fitting the charge air hose to the throttle body, adding larger injectors and the fuel manager. all done without removing the front end. I think they can get a kit in in 6 hours
"So that's the concept about the twinscrew and throttle position. I can go WOT at 3000rpm and have full boost immediately with the twinscrew. With the eaton, I can go WOT at 3000rpm and full boost is not achieved until I hit my rev limiter. So I can get 17psi boost at 3000rpm instead of having to wait to see 17psi until the rev limiter. Don't get me wrong, you will have boost with the eaton at 3000rpm, just not max boost."
I also heard the autorotors are real screamers. anyone heard one?
regarding Tonyb's comment comparing install time twinscrew vs twincharge: I'm guessing the 'screw will take considerably longer. you have to relocate the alt, r&r the blower and intercooler, drain the coolant, install the new water pump w hose and wiring, install a new belt tensioner, then there is the intake tubing and throttle body fitting, coolant radiator, pump, tank and hoses. I'm guessing around 10-12 hours.
the twincharger involves inserting the turbo manifold turbo and oil lines and fitting the charge air hose to the throttle body, adding larger injectors and the fuel manager. all done without removing the front end. I think they can get a kit in in 6 hours
Originally Posted by DizzyTT
I drive a car with a turbo, and power does come on hard at 3k, but, you know where it hits, you stay above that point, and it's always on. i.e. you use trailbraking, or you use a lower gear to keep in the power range. It just takes a different style of driving. Both definitely have their advantages.
Originally Posted by 04yellowS
Actually, with the twinscrew if you go WOT at any rpm you have full boost. With the eaton full boost isn't achieved until at the highest rpms.
So that's the concept about the twinscrew and throttle position. I can go WOT at 3000rpm and have full boost immediately with the twinscrew. With the eaton, I can go WOT at 3000rpm and full boost is not achieved until I hit my rev limiter. So I can get 17psi boost at 3000rpm instead of having to wait to see 17psi until the rev limiter. Don't get me wrong, you will have boost with the eaton at 3000rpm, just not max boost.
So that's the concept about the twinscrew and throttle position. I can go WOT at 3000rpm and have full boost immediately with the twinscrew. With the eaton, I can go WOT at 3000rpm and full boost is not achieved until I hit my rev limiter. So I can get 17psi boost at 3000rpm instead of having to wait to see 17psi until the rev limiter. Don't get me wrong, you will have boost with the eaton at 3000rpm, just not max boost.
Low RPM boost:
1) Roots
2) twin-screw
3) centrifugal
Thermal efficiency:
1) centrifugal
2) twin-screw
3) Roots
Quietness:
1) Roots
2) centrifugal
3) twin-screw
As you can see, the twin-screw represents a compromise. It doesn't have the low-end boost of the Roots and it doesn't have the thermal efficiency of the centrifugal. But, it should offer better high rpm performance than the Roots without the dead low-end of the centrifugal, with the downsides of high cost and loud noise. Randy may be right, the water/air intercooler could be more needed for creating a tolerable volume and pitch level for the sound of the twin-screw blower, than it is for any performance reason.
Any forced induction vehicle with a throttle can supply varying levels of boost at a particular RPM. I can hold my boost gauge at 6 psi, 8 psi, 10 psi, etc. simply by altering the movement of my right foot.
Help me out here people. What I'm hearing about the twinscrew supercharger is that they produce the same boost level across the RPM band. If the supercharger is driven off the same belt that attaches to the crank, how does the twinscrew SC vary it's own internal speed to maintain a constant boost level over the varying RPMs? Maybe the TSSC isn't driven off of the crank?
Having driven turbocharged, supercharged, and naturally-aspirated cars at the track (LRP, Pocono, etc), both of the boosted ones required more of a deft touch of the throttle while cornering than did the non-boosted. It's simply a matter of having a range of, let's say, 25 inHg vacuum to 15 psi available with the right foot rather than, let's say, 25 inHg to 5 inHg available. Forced induction can literally double (or more) the amount of air increase into the engine for a given throttle movement. So, it is easier to hold the engine at the torque limit of the tires in a sweeper, for example, with a non-boosted car.
I would think that how well the engine is tuned and set up for the track (including properly sizing components like turbocharger or supercharger) would make a bigger difference in track performance than the source of power for a particular 250 whp, 2800 lb car.
I would think that how well the engine is tuned and set up for the track (including properly sizing components like turbocharger or supercharger) would make a bigger difference in track performance than the source of power for a particular 250 whp, 2800 lb car.
Originally Posted by dominicminicoopers
Help me out here people. What I'm hearing about the twinscrew supercharger is that they produce the same boost level across the RPM band. If the supercharger is driven off the same belt that attaches to the crank, how does the twinscrew SC vary it's own internal speed to maintain a constant boost level over the varying RPMs? Maybe the TSSC isn't driven off of the crank?
The twin-screw really is a marvel of manufacturing, it would be very easy to build one and have it destroy itself instantly.
Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
Having driven turbocharged, supercharged, and naturally-aspirated cars at the track (LRP, Pocono, etc), both of the boosted ones required more of a deft touch of the throttle while cornering than did the non-boosted. It's simply a matter of having a range of, let's say, 25 inHg vacuum to 15 psi available with the right foot rather than, let's say, 25 inHg to 5 inHg available. Forced induction can literally double (or more) the amount of air increase into the engine for a given throttle movement. So, it is easier to hold the engine at the torque limit of the tires in a sweeper, for example, with a non-boosted car.
I would think that how well the engine is tuned and set up for the track (including properly sizing components like turbocharger or supercharger) would make a bigger difference in track performance than the source of power for a particular 250 whp, 2800 lb car.
I would think that how well the engine is tuned and set up for the track (including properly sizing components like turbocharger or supercharger) would make a bigger difference in track performance than the source of power for a particular 250 whp, 2800 lb car.
The twinscrew should be relatively easy as far as the install goes. The alternator doesn't need to be relocated. You have to remove the front end, which takes about 15 minutes, then remove and install components. I'm guessing 4-5 hours. I used to do the pulley install in this way, and it was down to 2.5 hours. With the additional work of replacing the water pump, running the oil lines, and programming the ECU, maybe add a couple hours.
I have heard one, and with the water-air, it isn't much louder at all. With an air-air, it woul be louder than the Roots. With the front mount, it would sound like a fire truck! I'll be sure to post videos with the different set ups.
Hope that helps!
Randy
I have heard one, and with the water-air, it isn't much louder at all. With an air-air, it woul be louder than the Roots. With the front mount, it would sound like a fire truck! I'll be sure to post videos with the different set ups.
Hope that helps!
Randy
Originally Posted by jlm
is this right?
"So that's the concept about the twinscrew and throttle position. I can go WOT at 3000rpm and have full boost immediately with the twinscrew. With the eaton, I can go WOT at 3000rpm and full boost is not achieved until I hit my rev limiter. So I can get 17psi boost at 3000rpm instead of having to wait to see 17psi until the rev limiter. Don't get me wrong, you will have boost with the eaton at 3000rpm, just not max boost."
I also heard the autorotors are real screamers. anyone heard one?
regarding Tonyb's comment comparing install time twinscrew vs twincharge: I'm guessing the 'screw will take considerably longer. you have to relocate the alt, r&r the blower and intercooler, drain the coolant, install the new water pump w hose and wiring, install a new belt tensioner, then there is the intake tubing and throttle body fitting, coolant radiator, pump, tank and hoses. I'm guessing around 10-12 hours.
the twincharger involves inserting the turbo manifold turbo and oil lines and fitting the charge air hose to the throttle body, adding larger injectors and the fuel manager. all done without removing the front end. I think they can get a kit in in 6 hours
"So that's the concept about the twinscrew and throttle position. I can go WOT at 3000rpm and have full boost immediately with the twinscrew. With the eaton, I can go WOT at 3000rpm and full boost is not achieved until I hit my rev limiter. So I can get 17psi boost at 3000rpm instead of having to wait to see 17psi until the rev limiter. Don't get me wrong, you will have boost with the eaton at 3000rpm, just not max boost."
I also heard the autorotors are real screamers. anyone heard one?
regarding Tonyb's comment comparing install time twinscrew vs twincharge: I'm guessing the 'screw will take considerably longer. you have to relocate the alt, r&r the blower and intercooler, drain the coolant, install the new water pump w hose and wiring, install a new belt tensioner, then there is the intake tubing and throttle body fitting, coolant radiator, pump, tank and hoses. I'm guessing around 10-12 hours.
the twincharger involves inserting the turbo manifold turbo and oil lines and fitting the charge air hose to the throttle body, adding larger injectors and the fuel manager. all done without removing the front end. I think they can get a kit in in 6 hours
Originally Posted by dominicminicoopers
Help me out here people. What I'm hearing about the twinscrew supercharger is that they produce the same boost level across the RPM band. If the supercharger is driven off the same belt that attaches to the crank, how does the twinscrew SC vary it's own internal speed to maintain a constant boost level over the varying RPMs? Maybe the TSSC isn't driven off of the crank?
Hope that helps!
Randy
Sorry to everyone for the multiple posts - it was the easiest way to quote and organize responses to all. I tried to figure out a way to put them together after I was finished, but then it leaves the deleted post anyway.
Andy,
Thanks for your input - Corky Bell's book is definitely a must read
Randy
Andy,
Thanks for your input - Corky Bell's book is definitely a must read
Randy
Last edited by RandyBMC; Feb 17, 2005 at 07:54 AM.
Originally Posted by RandyBMC
There are several issues with a water-air set up. One of them is the higher thermal mass. You can avoid this issue by keeping that mass cool. Therein lies the solution - find a way to make sure the mass doesn't heat soak. You can do that by splitting the mass, optimizing the rate of flow - more time in the radiator, but enough time in the intercooler core to transfer heat energy - increasing the cooling area of the radiator, and increasing the volume of the radiator.
Originally Posted by RandyBMC
Sorry to everyone for the multiple posts - it was the easiest way to quote and organize responses to all. I tried to figure out a way to put them together after I was finished, but then it leaves the deleted post anyway.
Andy,
Thanks for your input - Corky Bell's book is definitely a must read
Randy
Andy,
Thanks for your input - Corky Bell's book is definitely a must read
Randy
By having two different paths, each of those paths is exposed to the core (where the thermal transfer is happening) for a shorter period than if the mass was one big unit.
It is then easier to keep the temp down, since the peak temps are not as high.
Hope that helps!
Randy
It is then easier to keep the temp down, since the peak temps are not as high.
Hope that helps!
Randy
Originally Posted by RandyBMC
By having two different paths, each of those paths is exposed to the core (where the thermal transfer is happening) for a shorter period than if the mass was one big unit.
It is then easier to keep the temp down, since the peak temps are not as high.
Hope that helps!
Randy
It is then easier to keep the temp down, since the peak temps are not as high.
Hope that helps!
Randy
The only difference I can see is the small amount of heat radiated from the hoses since you have more hose surface area.
Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
The Roots-type blower grabs a specific volume of air (45 cu. in. in our case), moves it using rotors from one side to the other, and dumps it out. The air isn't compressed inside the blower, only once it gets dumped into the manifold. In a twin-screw, the rotors are shaped and geared differently, so that as the air enters the blower, it has a smaller and smaller space to live as the rotors turn. This way, it is already compressed when it dumps out into the manifold. Avoiding the sudden shock of compressing the air instantly at blower exit (as is done in the Roots) results in the twin-screw being gentler with the air, thus better thermal efficiency. The twin-screw really is a marvel of manufacturing, it would be very easy to build one and have it destroy itself instantly.
Originally Posted by RandyBMC
Great question. It has to do with design differences. Because the twin screw is actually compressing air as it moves the volume, you can create boost where the Roots isn't. You are accomplishing this through rotor design. It is still driven by the crank.
) 18psi. Also at 7k RPM the TSSC is also making 18psi. But isn't more air being moved at the higher RPM with the TSSC. Since the manifold isn't changing it's air volumn, would there be more boost at the higher RPM since more air is being moved?
The speed you are going down a straight is directly related to the speed you exited the turn prior to the straight. Horsepower isn't the only determining factor for the speed you reach on the race track.
Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
That makes no sense at all. Let's say you have 1 gallon of water at 100F and I pass it through a heat exchanger that is 50F at the rate of 1 gallon per minute. Now, let's say I have two systems, each of which have 1/2 gallon of water at 100F and I pass each of them through their own 50F heat exchanger at 1/2 gallon per minute. The amount of heat transfer is exactly the same.
The only difference I can see is the small amount of heat radiated from the hoses since you have more hose surface area.
The only difference I can see is the small amount of heat radiated from the hoses since you have more hose surface area.
Randy
Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
In both the Roots and in the twin-screw designs, boost increases as RPM increases, the curves are simply shaped differently.
....Maximum mid-range and low-end torque. No one can touch us in this area. "Instant maximum boost" means instantly more torque and horsepower when you punch it at any rpm above 2000...
....Unlike others that depend on rpm for boost (approx. 1-1.5 psi of boost per 1000 rpm), there's no waiting for the rpm to build with the Kenne Bell supercharger...
....Unlike others that depend on rpm for boost (approx. 1-1.5 psi of boost per 1000 rpm), there's no waiting for the rpm to build with the Kenne Bell supercharger...



