2007 MINI must have gone to electric because the current one is driven off the back of the S/C in the current Cooper S, I believe. It would be interesting to see what kind of difference it made if you didn't have to fork-out $500-$1000 to find out. And a lot of labor. Though you could rig something temporary just so you could dyno it without having to R&D it to fit somewhere under the hood.

Steve

 

On demand waterpump sounds sounds electric to me. 20 hp robbing waterpump is a bit extreme. The supercharger & waterpump take 45hp? Not.

 

I'd expect the water pump to be in the 5-10 hp range. The SC probably takes 40 or so hp to run. Good thing it gives back about 80.

 

I have some real important news that will bring back this thread to topic. As I have said a few times, I was the one that posted the earlier pictures of how to cut the stock CAT to attach it to the OBX header. These pictures have some green text. In one of the pictures, you can see the finished job.

IMPORTANT
I was missing the doughnut gasket that is needed and is shipped with the OBX header. The Muffler shop that did the welding, was kind enough to provide me a similar piece, but to insure a seal, they overtighten the screws that have the springs.

MORE IMPORTANT
As happy as I am with the OBX header, I have to tell you that those springs are crap. I am greatly at fault for not changing the doughnut gasket, once I had the replacemrnt, but I am sure that it would had not changed what happened. ONE OF THE SCREWS GOT LOOSE AND came off completely. Remember that my springs was compressed all the way. Once the screw was lost, I found that the spring was still compressed all the way without any load.

THIS MIGHT MEAN
That the springs can not handle the loads that might be placed on it when the engine puts load to it, even when properly installed.

To solve the problem, I purchased a new spring that is thicker and stronger. It cost me a lot of effort to install it, as it was partly compressed when the screw was just starting to make its way in the screw. Now my installation is better than before. I followed the advise from SS in regards to the spring: Keep the spring at half load. :smile:

I will post pictures and the information on the spring that I used. I can not download them at this time. If it is not too much trouble, you might want to check your setup. What told me that I had a problem was a noisy rattling at take off from stop. It got worse and worse, even when the screw was still there.

Lets hear from some other people with this installation.

Bomboasy

 

Rember what I said about double nutting for insurance now that you have replaced them. Hopefully the replacement ones you found can take the heat. Sorry, I just puned on myself. Exhaust springs might be a better route. Call around to muffler shops, speed shops or just poke around a junkyard. SS told you.. ahem.

 

Wow.

I've been under my car at least monthly since my install. I even loosed the nuts a 1/4" so the springs wouldn't eventually crush the doughnut. No problems with mine.

Perhaps if you started out with the springs fully compressed, then add several heat cycles, it kills the spring tension?

Glad you caught it before any damage was done.

 

SS is Super Sprint, the original designer of this header. OBX been a copy of their product. I am using two nuts, per your suggestion. Thanks.

Bomboasy

 

I came home and my OBX header was waiting for me

ITS BEAUTIFUL some had critized quality but its gorgeous - nice welds. Some refernced that OBX had copied Supersprint. I'm looking at their cat back system and it looks like SS but nicer finish - and its ONLY 299!

I can't wait to install this sucker.

 

Can you post pictures of the OBX Cat-Back. If you like you can start another thread on it, not suggesting or hinting - just a comment, but I sure would like to see what the catback looks like. Of course, if you dyno the entire set up, OBX header to exhaust tip, share it with us. Thanks.

Bomboasy

 

I was mpressed with the quality also. Some of the holes are really tight on the flange. You may want to / have to enlarge a couple of the holes a drill size to aid installation.

 

I took all of the detailed "how to posts" and off I went to the shop. Pretty much everything in the how to posts was the case.

But here are my comments (I regret no pics) -

1) I don't see how people did this with the cars on jack stands. Using a lift getting the header in was tricky - once you found that exact angle and gave it the right push it went in.

2) Bolting up the header, we found one hole so close to one of the pipes that, we had to shave the flange off of the bolt to get in in properly. Having done that it went in with no problem - and it was only 1 bolt.

3) Referenced here it was suggested to use two nuts on the header connect flange so that the nuts did not vibrate loose. The mechanic said that would work but he liked to use cooper nuts so we went with that.

While we worked on the car, we sent the old pipes to cut the cat off and weld on the connector flange. They did a beautiful job but it ended up pushing my exhaust system back a 1/2 inch and I have a little vibration sound at idle. Since I have the 1-ball we loosened up the 1-ball converter pipe and slide the pipe in that 1/2 inch. Had I had a different exhaust this might have been more of a problem. Its best to cut, spot weld, test fit and then weld.

Results -
Butt Dyno - it SEEMS to pull a TAD better above 5 rpm.
Exhaust note - it SEEMS to have made my 1-ball a TAD louder.
Or the above is bullsh*t and i'm still on my mod high.

OVERALL - KEEPING IN MIND IT IS NOT a $1,000 SUPERSPRINT HEADER, it's a 200 header! If I were building a race car, I'd go for something else but for street play & a lttle autocross - I think its very nice.

Parts -
1-ball conversion 125.00
Obx Header 200
Total Investment = $325.00 (precious!)


Bahamabart

 

Nice job. Can you tell how far the bolt should stick out at the flex joint? I think the nuts on mine are starting to work loose.

 

I am getting ready to re do the section between the header and the cat back flange. I have had my car on the track a few times with this header and it seems to work the flange gasket when running at 7000 for extended periods. not to mention the springs dont seem very strong any more. Right now I am on my second gasket.

Here is what I am going to do.

The flange that the 2 bolts with the springs go through ( on the header ) is the same size as the cat back flange.

I am going to make a section of pipe with the factory cat and a flex like the factory used but in 2.5 instead of 2.25 that connects to the header with a 2 bolt flange and gasket same as the cat back side, I think that will be stronger and still have enough flex to be ok.

So it will be header, 2 bolt flange, 2.5 flex, cat, 2 bolt flange.

That way all the piping is 2.5 all the way from front to back instead of the short pieces if 2.25 from the factory setup. I should have it done and on the car by end of next week. I dont know if it will make a difference or not but I wont have to worry about the odd gasket for th ecollector any more.

 

Mine pass the nut about 1/2 inch or a little more - double nut or but cooper bolts - either one will keep that sucker together. The mechanic said just tight not torqued - remember you want that to flex if it needs too.

One difference from the pictures posted above is that my mechanic put the springs on the header side not the cat side. I doubt there is a right or wrong but he saw the pic and said it should be that way.

 

Cats are designet to get glowing hot to burn the residual spent gasses. So springs foward towards header. If they need additional tightening over time, don't, replace them, they're dead. Be careful jumping off the hwy to parking in tall dry grass for that striking photo!

 

Something I forgot to mention on my install. When I installed the header with the stock cat welded to the stub supplied my exhaust was moved back about 1/2" also. To remove any strain I took the center support plate off and redrilled it to move the support back 1/2" also.

 

Does anyone know how to get in touch with Danny Wong (vendor who sold me my OBX) by phone? I need a replacement donut gasket (mine is leaking right now) and he has not responded to a bunch of emails.

A pm would be great.

Thanks.

 

I had the same problem. Clearly, it helps to measure up, tack weld, verify fit, ect..... BUT in the case you can't do that taking 1/2 off the flange before welding might be helpful to others. Assumes you cut the cat right behind the original weld.

 

I just received my OBX header and all I got is the header, no gasket, no donuts, no flange and no bolts, and it was shipped UPS through Customs and UPS charged me 35% in broker fee, never asked about my own broker's account, I wonder if they will ship me the missing parts now and how much will it cost in broker fee, I hope it won't be another $30 or I will tell the driver to stick it up his a**.

 

Man that sucks! I feel your pain.

The downside of buying a knock-off, clearly selling a header at this price doesn't permit the hiring of "INSPECTOR #12" (i.e. that little tag that says inspected by). Hopefully when all said and done - you will feel that it was worth it.

 

Guys, I am about to purchase one of the headers. Can you think of any issues having it installed on an ALTA exhaust? I found a shop that has done this mod before (not an ALTA exhaust) so that should help. Looking for comments from any of the folks that had this mod done- would you do it again?

 

Nope. No additional issues with any aftermarket CAT-back.

Matter of fact, its easier with an aftermarket exhaust system. Since most of them are modular, they can be adjusted forward and aft for a perfect fit without putting tension or stress on the rubber exhaust mounts.

Since the OEM exhaust is one piece, it would require much more precise fitment of the header to get a stress/tension-free install.

 

Go for it. You will have no regrets. This mod. seemed to reallly wake up the engine as far as pulling through the gears. With my other mods I think the pre-cat was a bottleneck.

 

dayum.....All these problems with the OBX header is making me think twice about buying one.

 

I wouldnt class these few little niggles as "all these problems" I am quiet impressed with the quality of mine and doubt another header at 3 times the price would be any better made.