Superb!!!

What do you plan on showing them for proof?

I'm very interested now.

 

Actualy there are a few very easy ways . Park two cooper s's side by side one with a device and one without with the hoods open . Have one person in front of each car looking at the valve actuator. Have both cars step up their rpm's in 500 rpm increments. The actuator arm for the by pass valve car with the device will move far sooner than the one without. In addition to this test just have one car rev to lets say 3000 rpm and back to idle a few times . Then have the second car do the same. The lever on the by pass valve will move much more rapidly than the one without the valve. It is not something minor it is clearly moving faster and earlier . It has been clear to anyone we have shown this to so far . Another test so to speak is a little more difficult to set up but we would need two cars with the bmp or similar boost gage installed. I have one in my car and the way the needle moves before and after having a device inline is truly astounding. Prior to the install my needle would make a nice move towards full boost and then waver a little bit at max boost . Now the needle actually streaks to full boost and remains steady until I let off at which point it dives to the negative numbers. I honestly welcome any representative that you pick to witness these as well as other ways that we may show the wonder of it all LOL .Granted these aren't numbers charts or graphs but it is reality. Have a great weekend and you can have them email me any time and Ill make myself available. BTW as for letting sfj james post sit for a entire 24 hrs we confess , we have LIVES beyond the keyboard And one last thing on the cruising area. What he may be experiencing is the ability to accelerate within that range easier do to the supercharger being more responsive. Its just an opinion as it is he who made the comment and I don't want to put words in his mouth. I still say that cruising IE: holding a steady RPM there will be no noticeable difference but if you are accelerating while cruising then you may feel something. Perhaps it is just two different meanings for the word cruising that has us " cruising " for an answer

P.S Wasn't this the week you were going to debut your ignition mod ? We are all looking forward to that one. Like I said its great to have you back !

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=26266

Randy
Team M7

Randy@m7tuning.com

 

I think, in fact I know from my own experience that measuring the effect of the 'device' is pointless. I assure any skeptics that the improvement in performance is not due to a 'placebo' effect.......I'm not imagining that now I never have to feather the clutch and throttle to pull from 1st to 2nd cleanly and evenly. Skeptics should be left to themselves in the face of repeated testimonials to decide how much of a risk this may be for them.

Maybe it comes down to one's ability to trust based on experience. I previously purchased a silver M7 Utimate Grill that is a fine piece of work and it looks fantastic. This one is FREE......an incredible gesture of good will.

So, going ahead with this didn't feel risky to me AT ALL and I have been rewarded with improved quality, safety and fun in my daily driving. I'm really glad I took the plunge......skeptics should either get 'on the bus' or 'off the bus' and head on to the next thing. If they choose the latter.......it's their loss. Have a good day. :smile:

 

Actually, this should be pretty easy to verify. The manifold pressure is an OBD2 monitored parameter. (I'm hoping it is post-SC rather than pre-SC.) That and throttle position vs time at 10th sec intervals should suffice. In fact I just got an OBD scanner, and an M7 device as well. It is uninstalled at the moment because my problem is yoyo not throttle response and the M7D was not touted as a yoyo solver.

 

Bradley

I too have the yoyo issue. After installing the device, the yoyo seems to dampened a little. It still yoyos but not that pronounced.

 

I posted this 'Device Question'a while ago, but got no response:
Any takers this time around?

Ok, I've got a NEW question about this device,
that AFAI can tell has not been asked before (in this thread):



Does the installation of this device reduce gas mileage?


Based on what I have read about the whole bypass valve operation, I would guess (and that's all it is, a guess), that if the device improves throttle response, then it will reduce gas mileage. What I would like to see by some of those who have installed this device, is a comparison of mileage before vs after, in addition to comments on throttle respones.

Now, another even more outlandish question based on my very limited understanding of such automotive matters: it woul dbe interesting to see before/after dyno run plots of the air-fuel mixture, is it possible that these might be affected?

TIA!
M.

 

And since you have had several people witness the faster movement of the valve, I'll believe it for now.

It's just that there is an entire body of physics that says that if you restrict the vacuum signal going to the diaphragm, that it will make the valve move more slowly.

So there is clearly something that we BOTH don't understand about why this change would do what you are saying it does.

That's the interesting part.

Maybe if we actually understand what's going on (Or if you could explain it to us) it would lead to a whole new area of mods.

Do you have any ideas on how this restriction causes the valve to move faster?

 

Wow you all were busy last night . First off thank you to all the positive responses and I am glad that you are experiencing what we had hoped was more enjoyment ot of your cars.
The gas mileage question hmm. My OPINION on that is the fact that the " device " makes the valve respond fractionally quicker would have a minimal affect on your mileage. What will be much more detrimental to your economy will be your desire to put your foot in it more often. I have been in contact lately with a few Mini Owners that have been trying the zip tie method and they have noticed a small drop in fuel mileage and that could be related to the valve being open 100% of the time or again more so to their driving method.
Trippy a fair question and as I have said before being of the snake oil variety my engineering abilities are slim at best. I have talked to the " founder " of the " device " and frankly if i tried to repeat what he said I know I would screw it up. I am going on a little canyon run with him this morning and I will ask him again and maby I can ge answer that I can repeat clearly. What I do know is that he has been using this trick for many years on all kinds of high performance applications . He is not a online guy at this time or I could simply have him get on here and answer it himself. On a good note his shop is getting DSL service next week finally and perhaps I could persuade him to drop in on the board and say a few words. I don't want him to ge too tied up in here though as we have a TON of work for him LOL. have a great sunday all.

Randy
team M7

 

I sent a SASE about a week ago and just wondering how long the turn around is to recieve this little piece of performance??

Can't wait....

 

I recieved the "device" the other day and have yet to do the install. In the directions that came with it, removal of the intercooler is recommended. When this is done it calls for cleaning the "oil" out of the I.C. with acetone.

How many of you who have done the install found oil in there, what determines how much oil in there requires cleaning....and where does one get acetone to do this? Is this where the "oil catch can" comes into play?


click pic for better view :D
His, Chile RED over, Madness intake, Magnaflow exhaust, Helix 15% Pulley & RDR Swaybar
Hers, Electric Blue / Union Jack on top and BONE Stoc

 

Hi Guys....

We are processing the "Free M7 device" as fast as humanly possible.
Depending on where you live, expect a couple of weeks from that you
send the envelopes (we are in California).

I received a nice call today from someone who installed the device and
had some issues with the car running rough. please make sure that your
intercooler is installed correctly with no air leaks. The rubber gaskets can be
tricky to re-attach, make sure to lubricate the gasket ever so lightly, and
you will find that the re-attachment is simplified.

For tech help please feel free to call anytime.

Peter
Team M7
562-712-3270

 

OK, I answered my own question. (sort of) :smile:

I couldn't stand having the "device" and not installing it. Being the impatient person that I am, 30 minutes later I have "it" in place and had the car out for a spin

As far as the oil question, there was just a bit of oil in the rubber gasket on the right and I just wiped it clean. The intercooler itself was remarkably clean, so much for the acetone issue :smile: . Perhaps I'll check it again in a few thousand miles and see about any oil build up and clean it then.

My Impressions: more responsive, definately. Since I have no means of measuring pressures, etc. I used the "reliable" seat dyno. I thought I would be able to hear the SC whine a bit earlier, but that was not the case. There was a bit more "oomph" when putting the foot to the floor.

Perhaps, as mentions before, it was the "placebo" effect and I just wanted it to do better, and it did. So what if that is the case! ...I have the desired effect, end of story. After all of the postive posts here we all can't be that easily influenced./ persuaded....right? ....(lemmings)???:smile:

In the end the device only cost me an envelope, a couple stamps, 7 days or so watching my mail, 30 min of my time, a sprinkling of "faith" and the bloody knuckles I received during the install.

Thanks again for the "device" M7 and keep up the good work.

click pic for better view :D
His, Chile RED over, Madness intake, Magnaflow exhaust, Helix 15% Pulley & RDR Swaybar
Hers, Electric Blue / Union Jack on top and BONE Stoc

 

just got the device in mail friday. I must be dumb- the white dot is on the short end of the tube but from the picture i can't tell where the end with the dot is supposed to go. My picture shows white dot at both ends- i think the copier must have had a problem.

Does the end with the white dot go on TB or on the valve?? .

 

Look at the first post on this thread, the second picture. This second picture shows a white "circle" on the tube. This is the same picture on the directions.(actually is appears to be the hole where the intercooler cover bolts down)

On the directions, this "circle" is copied, but also there is a more prominent white dot at the other end of the "device" on the tube, ....see directions ....at least that is how I installed it and saw things......it better be right or it looks like another afternoon "wrestling" under the hood. Good luck.


click pic for better view :D
His, Chile RED over, Madness intake, Magnaflow exhaust, Helix 15% Pulley & RDR Swaybar
Hers, Electric Blue / Union Jack on top and BONE Stoc

 

The end with the white dot or mark should go closest to the by pass valve. In leu of any mark install the replacment hose with the device end closest to the valve. We tried to posistion the device slightly to one end of the tube. That end should be attached to the by pass valve.
Randy
Team M7

 

Hi all, yesterday ,after spending the afternoon washing and waxing "Zane Grey", I thought that I'd give the install of the device a whirl. A few thoughts:

firstly, given the instructions, I thought the tear down went fairly smoothly.HOWEVER ,I would strongly recommend to all, that the removal of the cast aluminum support for the intercooler, bolted on with (3) 8 mm bolts, be considered as part of the prep work.With this item out of the way,someone like me who has 8 lb hams for hands actually has a shot at this job.
next, and this is really important, to get the device on to the lower tube,I found that a little dab of spit on the ID of the tube made it a lot easier to slip it on, and also, that this is a two handed job, with one hand getting totally chewed to ribbons on the inside and the other from the outside (front). All this is done totally by feel, since you really can't see where this puppy is going .I found that trying to become familiar with the end location first , before actually trying to introduce peter's "device",was extremely helpfull.Once the lower end is on, you are home free, getting the upper end on.
Lastly,in putting the intercooler back in,MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A GOOD AIR TIGHT SEAL ON BOTH END RUBBER GASKETS! (thank you peter for giving me this tip when I called on Sunday,your patience and humor was appreciated,especially when you said you had done the same thing (screwing up the seal,creating an air leak) A light skim coat of oil on the inside contact surfaces of the rubber gaskets is quite helpful.
In putting the cast aluminum intercooler support back on , I managed to lose a deep 8 MM socket down into the netherworld somewhere down deep. To the mechanic who finds it in several years, enjoy
I can't really put my finger on it, but this is a truley remarkable mod. Seems like it is smoother in all ranges, with more low end torque (and no, I can't show you the numbers). I am a touchy-feeley kind of driver, and all I can tell you is there is a definate improvement in the way the car accelerates. I'm assuming that the restriction involved in the ID of the tube, generates some kind of richening of the air/fuel mixture and I assume that my gas mileage (which has been fairly constant at around 28 MPG) will suffer,but time will tell.
thanks again for the help,Peter Jock

 

I reinstalled the device last night after realizing I installed it on the wrong end of the hose. It was late last night, so I couldn’t take the car for a test run. This morning on my way to work, after about 5 minutes of driving, the “Check Engine Light” came on.

I installed the intercooler the same way I have install it for the last 20 times. I don’t think I have a leak. If I didn’t install the hose right, would this happen? If it is the hose or the intercooler and I fix it tonight will the “check Engine Light” go away?

 

What I am experiencing is the ability to accelerate within the 2000-3000rpm range easier do to the supercharger being more responsive. My words exactly...

 

***EDITED ON 6/15/04***
Just to clarify.
Is this the intended method of installation?



Since the install I have accumulated about 50 miles with a slightly noticeable improved standstill launch. My question is, if installed backwards, is there a lack of improved result, or other adverse effects?
I also did witness the action of the actuator after installation. Jab at the throttle and it now snaps into position with an audible sucking and "click" that can actually be heard from within the cabin, hood shut.

To respond to an earlier post of intercooler condition. Mine was considerably coated, as well as the accumulation of oil in the IC boots. I used an aerosol brake cleaner with a high content of acetone. Sprayed in half the can, dumped it out. Very yellow. I think I will make this procedure part of my annual maintenance.

*I apologize in advance if my graphic is incorrect. If so I will post a correction so as to not cause any more confusion.

**IMAGED EDITED, CORRECT IMAGE INSERTED, CONFUSION TERMINATED

-jeff

 

In my opinion, it's highly unlikely that 'backward' installation of this device would result in a SES light. More likely is that you did actually misalign one of the intercooler boots or other pieces that you disassembled, and you may have a vacuum leak or other issue. The SES light indicates a whole plethora (big word ) of things, and the only way to tell for sure is to use a OBD scanner and retrieve the DTC code. The DTC will be very specific as to the reason that the SES is lit.

The SES light will turn off after several engine startup/cooldown cycles if the problem condition has been resolved, but the DTC code will still be logged for retrieval. If the problem is persistent, the SES light will remain lit.

 

Maybe you need to "Break-it-down!!!" Although when you get to Hammer-time, you should take a break.

 

i recently installed the device... i got small hands (you know what they say about small hands) so got everything done reasonably easily.

the device... i can't say it really makes that much of a difference for me (let me reiterate the for me part: i am but a single sample in a small pool of subjectivity). i try to be observant of my vehicle behavior, and can't say that i noticed much difference. i am an avid downshifter (rev match and double clutch, of course) and the response time of the throttle is still delayed. i WISH i got the instantaneous throttle kick-in like others have been reporting, but that annoying delay is still there, and i dont think it's going away. no real difference in supercharger response either that i can tell.

recently did the HAI, and thought that would actually make the differences more pronounced, but alas...

thanks anyway.

(oh, did not really see a difference in gas mileage either, btw. will post a long distance travel mileage after i get back from my weekly trip to cleveland -130miles-).

 

I, or rather my wife, installed mine in the "Not Here" spot as well (my hands just wouldn't fit in there to install it.)

My MCS is completely stock otherwise. I can't say I notice a big difference after the "device" but the supercharger may hit a bit earlier. Too many police around recently to give it a good run.

 

Hello all, as far as gas mileage goes, mine is at 36 mpg. Probably be at 37-38mpg if not for the hole-shots out of the toll booths and a little traffic.:smile: This is on my weekly drive to Sacramento from SF. take care all.

 

ok... now i'm all confused.

sorry for my lapse in not-being-a-tard, but let's say that the throttle body is the metal thing with the butterfly open-close thing (which i think it is... right?) and the by pass valve is the black rubber thing? the white dotted end goes onto the black rubber thing, and the non-marked end goes to the throttle body?

that's how i did it anyways, so if it's wrong, please lemme know. i just saw the pretty "here and not here" diagram, and am now wondering if i did it wrong. shame on you photo-chopper! har har