I got the HAI installed - think I should put the stock back on for my final stop at the dealer - I'm just at 49K.

 

Well, i guess i should have read better.... i got a 1550 and it will not fit the TB, so i used the exsisting rubber tube to conect it... no big deal....

Question is this... how do you remove the factory air ducting system... the one that comes off the front grill and is tubed to the factory air box.
the unit has 3 different openings so all the air is not getting to the factory air box...
i want and need the room , so how do you get it out... it shoots straight down and it connected to something on the right side of the car.. can't see what....

any idea's?

 

It might have been suggested in another post here already...I only read to about page 9 then proceeded to reply....but those that are wondering how to evacuate more hot air out of the engine bay to increase any amount of performance or efficiency; removing the cowl seal at the back of the engine bay will allow a good amount of trapped heat to escape from the back of the hood where it meets the windshield cowl....if this is unclear to anyone, or they don't think it would work, let me know and I can try to explain it better. In my old car, I ran an open cone (hai) intake, and removing the cowl seal improved flow out of the engine bay quite a bit, and kept temps down. Although I was also running a lower temp thermostat as well. I'm going to be ordering the K and N filter for my MINI as well soon....I can never get enough of that SC whine, and I need it just a little louder, plus I just can't justify the cost of the Alta or other CAI's when this seems like a viable option to try out....thanks Cheese and Andy for your efforts and reporting on this...sounds like a promising and great idea....

T.

 

I'm a temporary member of the HAI until M7's AGS arrives




Here's the crankcase vent #2:

 

How do you like it?

 

I love the way it looks...however, we're in a middle of a two day snow storm

 

Looks good, but every time I see tape holding a throttle body together, I shudder. With all the stuff in your engine bay, looks like the HAI or vaporware AGS are the only options for you!

 

All dressed up and no where to go
Thanks Andy for the concept

 

Has anyone tried to make use of something like this for the HAI?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...944665606&rd=1

 

I've had the Webb TB out many times in the 5k miles I've used it and the tape's holding good What other type of connection would you recommend?

 

Something like this:

 

Theres no point.

 

Thanks I think a friend and I are going to try to make a custom air box for the AGS this summer when he gets back from school. The colder I can keep the air going in the better.

 

That's worth doin...how can I get one of those clamps

 

You should contact whomever sold you that throttle body and ask them to de-ghetto it.

 

No, I'd rather not talk about Randy that way There's nothing wrong with the product as it is. I do think it would look better with a clamp and if that's something I can do, then I would. Back to the question, anyone know where I can get one of these clamps?

 

Well, you'd need to get the band that was originally cut off in order to open up the throttle body. If that was thrown away, you're kind of SOL. But, if you got one, it looks like you could cut and rivet a regular hose clamp to it to reseal it.

P.S. Ghetto is ghetto, no matter how nice the person is who sold it.

 

Maybe a really big shrink tubing? Just cut, and hit with an air-gun. I've seen the stuff at about 6" in diameter, but you'd have to search for a vendor......

Matt

ps, I know where you can get a clamp for about $500, and it comes with a TB attached for free

 

My company, P&D, has applied for a patent on that clamp; we did it because we can
and should. To cover us, from other companys copying our design and use of materials.

 

Hey, this is my first post. Monkey Grass.

Just put the K&N on my '05 MCS last night. Great mod! You can really hear the sc scream! Cheap too ($55 for both filters @ ajusa).

I used the chrome RC-1540 instead of the 1550 or 1520. It's 1" shorter but has 85% of the surface area of the other two, so not a big loss. It has almost twice the surface area of the stock filter without all the tubing so must breath a lot better. I don't have to worry about the 1540 rubbing the bonnet either.

The car feels quicker but my butt dyno is't calibrated well enough to quantify. Put on the chrome K&N crankcase breather too. Looks good. Sounds good. Feels good. Thanks for the 14 pages of posts on the subject; really helped in my decision.

More mods to come......

 

Now, after a few tanks of gas, go write a review in the reviews section!

Hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

Matt

 

Will do Matt. I already love it. It isn't obnoxiously loud like some think nor do I hear a "tinny" sound. It's not really noticable until I really put my foot in it. But when I do the SC lets you know it's there!

On another note. Has anyone figured a good way to mount the ECU and completely pull out the lower half of the air box? bracket design or something? I saw that the ECU has some mounting ears/holes on the case. Or is there an opinion that ECU shoud be protected as it is in its cubby hole in the airbox?

Thanks,
Doug

 

It's a blistering 18 F and SUNNY Finally...after 3 month, we're outta the garage The HAI is working pretty nicely The dense cold air in combination with the "short" intake seems to help my Mini breath very deeply...I'm seeing a higher boost peak at around 16.5-17psi ...and it's haulln "A" very nicely. Can't wait for M7's AGS...forgot to ask him today, dang. I haven't turn on the N20 bottle for fear of it freezing up in this condition

 

Does that mean you can sell me one? How much?

 

i've modified over 100 throttle bodies, but most of them were sent off to a distributor who re-assembled them and fitted his own shrink tube "clamp", like yours.


the hard parts about the thorttls body work are the accurate boring, making, fitting the elliptical bfly, dis-and re-assembly and that pesky clamp.

on about 10 tb's, I rigged that clamp you saw, but I need the original clamp band to start with. Assuming I had one of those, figure $25.

In case it was too subtle, that BS about the patent was lifted from the air gain thread.