Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Limited Slip for 2004 JCW R53

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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 05:23 PM
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Limited Slip for 2004 JCW R53

I have a 2004 MINI S. It is a MC-40 edition in mint condition. It is a Sunday driver and has never seen snow or salt. It just turned 30K miles. It has virtually every JCW part ever made for the r53s performance, aero, carbon you name it has it. I have always been obsessive about keeping it in factory trim. However, I am pretty much convinced that I have no other choice than to add an LSD. The car has so much power it is un-driveable with traction control on and when you turn it off you cook the tires. I run the absolute stickiest summer rubber I can put on short of going to track tires. This car has never been to anyplace other than a MINI dealer even for oil changes (I even replaced the windshield with factory glass). Not because I love spending extra money but because I want to be able to document every time the car was touched in a very official way. That said after talking to ALL of the dealers in Wisconsin where I live none of them want to crack the tranny and install an aftermarket diff. So I am asking for some suggestions...
1. Does anyone have any suggestions or personal experiences with any of the aftermarket diffs on the market?
2. More importantly does anyone know of any shops in Wisconsin (or worst case scenario Chicago) that are legit shops that have done this before?

Thanks in advance
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 08:02 AM
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We have the Quaife in our R56 fJCW and it's amazing. The diff is the same for teh R53 and R56 6-speed manual Getrag cars. Ours puts down similar power to yours and traction problems on the street are greatly reduced. Your other options are the OS Giken or another clutch-type diff from ATS/Carbonetic. The clutch types can make noise and require more frequent fluid changes. They can also introduce some undesirable handling characteristics on corner entry but overall they are a superior diff for racing purposes. For street use I would just stick with the Quaife.

The reason the mini dealer probably doesn't want to mess with a diff install is because there are no torque specs or manual for the Getrag transmission. At least any that I can find. So basically nobody knows anything about the internal workings of the gearbox. There are some accepted torque values for the things needed to replace the diff. Just the ring bolts and the bolts holding the case together. The diff install in the mini is stupid easy compared to other cars. Split transmission casing. Lift old open diff out and remove ring gear. Transfer ring gear to new diff and torque bolts with red loctite. Press on new diff bearings. Place new diff back in trans case and seal trans back up.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZAEAK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZAEAK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There isn't anything particularly difficult with the mini diff install. Any shop worth their salt should be able to manage. Especially if you go to a shop that is more "race" oriented as in they prep BMW cars for track use.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 08:20 AM
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We are using OSgiken on our R56 mini... its a great diff

but I have also driven R53 with Quaife and the other similar diff, that was fine too
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by vietnameeh
We are using OSgiken on our R56 mini... its a great diff

but I have also driven R53 with Quaife and the other similar diff, that was fine too
I am leaning towards the OSgilken...did you do the clutch and flywheel upgrade too?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 08:54 AM
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If you're looking into the OS Giken give the Carbonetic diffs a look. They do make them for the mini but don't have them on their site so you'll have to call them. They have a lot more options in regards to clutch disk materials and lockup. And they're typically cheaper. They're not as big in the auto-x world as OS Giken.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 10:59 AM
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I guess the next question is...

is this mainly just going to be a street car?

with that said, I dont see anything wrong with just going with a quaife or even a factory LSD
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vietnameeh
I guess the next question is...

is this mainly just going to be a street car?

with that said, I dont see anything wrong with just going with a quaife or even a factory LSD
This car will be 95% street car 5% track car

I do understand the concept of taking a street car too far. I had a E36 BMW that I over modified and put a racing clutch on and it was a monster (and not the good kind) on the road.

So.....I guess the real question is why WOULDNT I get the OS gilken other than price? Or in other words why would I choose the other two over the OS?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MC-40
This car will be 95% street car 5% track car

I do understand the concept of taking a street car too far. I had a E36 BMW that I over modified and put a racing clutch on and it was a monster (and not the good kind) on the road.

So.....I guess the real question is why WOULDNT I get the OS gilken other than price? Or in other words why would I choose the other two over the OS?
The Quaife will be cheaper and require less maintenance. I don't see why you would bother with the OS Giken for a street car.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by v10climber
The Quaife will be cheaper and require less maintenance. I don't see why you would bother with the OS Giken for a street car.
What do you mean "less maintenance"? Forgive my ignorance

I guess it may seem odd but I am a big proponent of doing things "right" the first time. I don't really do anything in a small way. I don't want go with the factory one and say "darn, I wish I had gone with OS..."

NO REGRETS!
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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Go with the quaife it is a great option for your street car and a huge improvement.
http://waymotorworks.com/quaife-limi...ferential.html
 
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by MC-40
What do you mean "less maintenance"? Forgive my ignorance

I guess it may seem odd but I am a big proponent of doing things "right" the first time. I don't really do anything in a small way. I don't want go with the factory one and say "darn, I wish I had gone with OS..."

NO REGRETS!
Mostly it's just fluid changes. The OS Giken will require more frequent fluid changes. It's possible (but incredibly unlikely) that eventually the OS Giken unit will have to be pulled out to be rebuilt. It is a clutch-based unit after all and the clutch plates will eventually wear out. However, I would suspect you'll be rid of the car well before that happens.

Just because something is more expensive doesn't make it the "better" option. You're not building a racecar here. The bottom line is the OS Giken has downsides when driven in a DD setting while a Quaife has none.

However, it seems like you really want the OS Giken so if that's the case go for it. It's your money
 
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by v10climber
Mostly it's just fluid changes. The OS Giken will require more frequent fluid changes. It's possible (but incredibly unlikely) that eventually the OS Giken unit will have to be pulled out to be rebuilt. It is a clutch-based unit after all and the clutch plates will eventually wear out. However, I would suspect you'll be rid of the car well before that happens.

Just because something is more expensive doesn't make it the "better" option. You're not building a racecar here. The bottom line is the OS Giken has downsides when driven in a DD setting while a Quaife has none.

However, it seems like you really want the OS Giken so if that's the case go for it. It's your money
Thanks for explaining. I honestly did not completely understand the differences. I am an engine guy! You are correct, based one what I have read it would seem for my requirements the Quaife would seem to be a better fit. I just don't like to make decisions based on price. I find out what I really want and if I can't afford it I don't buy it. I wait till I can rather than compromising. However, I certainly don't like to waste money. The only statement that was not correct is "being rid of the car". I will NEVER sell that little car! Is it the slowest car in my collection? Yes. Do I hate the front wheel drive? Yes. However, it has such a personality and for some reason never fails to make me smile when I drive it.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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I installed this one on my modded 04 MCS, 113500 miles.

http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/part...catalogid=5684
Literally dropped right in.

The difference a LSD makes is unreal.
The first time I hammered it in a corner the car pulled straight for the inside curb. Zero wheel spin.
I now have 2 track days with the LSD and and I am actually catching cars now.
What a blast!
Has to be one of the best mods I have done.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 03:49 PM
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I too got the the ford svt focus/ mini cooper s torsen.

you can get it straight from the torsen webstore for $625.

-Jonathan
 
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 09:45 PM
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Add a 3rd person to the SVT Focus diff pile.

That said given the cash and the ability to do it over again I would go for the quaife. From what I have read and based on the design the preload washers in the Quaife should make it perform better in adverse conditions.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 11:44 AM
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Hello folks,

I have a sourcing question for the svt torsen people. Do all 02-04 svt focuses come with torsen diff, or was it a factory option? Anyone has any idea?

I am trying to locate a used one from auto wreckers but they generally sell the transmission box as a whole, and have mo idea that there is a differential in it. I dont want to buy an svt transmission only to find an open differential in it.

Sent from my Galaxy S4 using NAMotoring
 
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 12:56 PM
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I was under the impression that the Svt units are aftermarket and not a stock piece

Aftermarket as in ford racing
 
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MC-40
...However, I am pretty much convinced that I have no other choice than to add an LSD. The car has so much power it is un-driveable with traction control on and when you turn it off you cook the tires.
most modern R53 tuners also tweak the throttle response which has a side effect of considerably taming the traction control. Won't help with wheelspin, but the car *does* become drivable with traction control, which, from the factory, requires granny mode to keep from embarrassing yourself or getting killed pulling out into traffic.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by PrplPplEtr
most modern R53 tuners also tweak the throttle response which has a side effect of considerably taming the traction control. Won't help with wheelspin, but the car *does* become drivable with traction control, which, from the factory, requires granny mode to keep from embarrassing yourself or getting killed pulling out into traffic.

+1
Very true!!
Limited slip would be nice...but overkill for my 100% street car!!
Many r53's are putting more HP to the pavement.... And only a small number have a LSD...
My mini centric local indie shop says a LSD adds a trivial amount of time to the job if added when the clutch is done....pretty easy according to them...
Most any shop that can change a clutch on a r53 should be able to add a LSD... Not sure why the dealers don't want too...guessing cause it is not a "OEM" part, and they are not very familiar with gen1 cars...very common....or more likely they might be doing car repair "by the numbers" using freshly trained techs from school....
 
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 08:46 PM
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Save your money and it a quaife it is worth it and better than the ford diff.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/quaife-...ferential.html
 
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Old Nov 2, 2013 | 03:45 AM
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Anyone heard of a way to retrofit elsd? Even though it seems to be harder on the brakes, I bet you can buy many a pad sets with the time and money spent on a mechanical lsd.

Any aftermarket kits or arduino projects etc?

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