This could actually solve one of my biggest gripes, which is that the revs don't rise quickly enough when you blip the gas on downshifts. Booster users, what do you say?

 

Have you tried the sport button? It essentially does the same thing.

 

Putting it in sport is the first thing I do after starting it. Still can't match the response of a car with a mechanical linkage.

 

something about putting the pedal to the floor when wanting to pass someone as appose to just halfway makes it seem like you're not pushing the car to hard

 

I found a place (Mayhem Motorsports) in Raleigh to dyno my car with and without the JB+. The charge $100 for 3 pulls. Which sounds about average. I'll try and get it scheduled in the next week or so.

What is the proper procedure in dyno'ing the car. Traction control on or off? My car is an automatic, do I do it in manual mode, what gear etc? Any advice would be great.

I'll be doing both sets (with and without JB+) back to back to factor out ambient affects as much as possible.

 

So are you going to get it on the car and adapted and do a run, take it off and see or what was your plan? It takes about 100 miles to get the full adaptation going to the tune. Also, the dyno shop will worry about the car and gear.
Manual mode will help keep it in gear, but if they go up to 3rd or 4th and floor it at a slow speed it can downshift and at redline it will shift so there isn't much you can do to control the tranny.
Traction control on or off, it wont matter as the car will be getting full traction.

 

Traction control will have to be off! The car will sense that the front wheels are moving and the rears are not, giving it the illusion that you are doing a nasty burn out!!! Turn traction off! I had this happen to me when I had 16's on the rear and 17's up front for tire swapping purposes.

 

what yetti suggested - dyno with jb+ on first, and then take it off and dyno w/o the jb+. that way, you don't have to wait for the car to adapt for 50-100 miles to get the actual readings for the jb+. i was planning on dynoing some matrix of an evolve dp on/off, and jb+ on/off, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

The JB+ is already installed and has been for about 1000 miles. So I'll definitely do that first. Then I'll remove it and compare. I'll also turn off traction control.

 

OK today 60 deg F and sunny. 250 miles since installation. Using 93 octane Shell V-Power with 10% ethanol blend. Cleaned the K&N on my DDM Works Race Intake (it was due). Boost peaked at 16.25 psi on a hard run in third gear and stayed there. I have to admit as a born skeptic I was a little skeptical going into this...now I'm convinced. Wonder if I've hit the max or if it'll boost further on a hot day? Very happy.

Guess I have to start spending money on the suspension now.

 

After having a seriously fun 2 weeks running around 97 octane (100/91 mix) and the JB+ at 6 (if 5 is the stock setting), I backed it down to stock and am back to a full tank of 76 '91.

This morning at 530 am cruising down 101 on the way to work I got the 3 honk from a guy in an s2000. I backed out when over boost kicked in and hit 18psi and by then I was an exit away from work.

JB+ and some standard bolt-ons/suspension mods = smooth reliable power all day long.

Go get it.

 

Would it be safe to say the Sprint Booster gives you linear throttle response like that of a throttle cable?

 

I can't say as I don't have a sprint booster, I'm running a d1 spec, which operates the same way.....

As for the d1 spec, I don't really have any way to measure if it makes it more linear...... But it definitely makes the pedal far more responsive. And the d1 spec has 9 sport mode settings to choose from.

To me personally, no drive by wire will ever feel like a mechanical connection, regardless if what booster system you use.

 

On the throttle boosters, I'm not a big fan especially on turbocharged vehicles. They already have a non-linear pedal input to torque output relationship (with full torque coming in around 75% throttle input at full spool) which makes the car difficult to control. Compressing the pedal input even further to say 0-40% as the pedal booster boxes do makes the car even less controllable. Not to mention, you can get the same effect by pressing the gas pedal down a bit further when you want it. I always joke with people to save their money and buy heavier shoes.

On fly by wire, keep in mind by separating pedal input vs. throttle movement the throttle can now also be used for other purposes. Like torque limiting, assisting with boost control, a soft rev limiter, etc. All good stuff.

 

I feel the 'control' issue is more a matter if personal preference..... I know for me, I feel more in controll being able to Adapt the car to my driving habits than having to adjust my driving habits to suit the car......

There are time when I'll switch setting while I'm driving to adjust for road conditions......for normal driving conditions, I'll keep my d1 spec set to sport mode..... However if I encounter hills or heavy rains or snow, I feel better with it in 'economy' mode to dull the throttle response......I've also found 'economy' mode is good for driving passengers as it makes shifting a lot smoother, that way my passengers aren't being jerked around.

I also like the ' super economy' modes, just in case someone want to borrow my car, I'll know they won't have too much fun in it.

 

I know many people love them. It's a product that is out there and widely used. While it's not my cup of tea personally the good news is they are fully compatible with the JB+.

FWIW the F chassis BMWs have added "econ", "comfort", and "sport" modes which also remap the pedal to torque in a similar way. I guess they stole sprint-boosters idea.

 

sounds like someone could have used a good patent atty. =)

 

I received my jb+ and can tool today. I can't get my car to recognize the can tool so that i can configure it. I connected it with the key in and then pressed and held the button on the can tool. Nothing happened. Tried the same with the car running with the same results. Also tried connecting the can tool before inserting key. Have tried holding the button on the tool and also press and release, all with no reaction from the car. What am i doing wrong?

 

So just to get my name in line on the list I went to bms and ordered a JB+. 20 min later I get confirmation order and a tracking number. It shipped!!!

 

I can tell you what I did though it sounds like you may have a bad unit. First, I connected to the obd port. Second, I started the car. Third, I held the button until the tach turned orange. Then from there programmed.

 

Ok, my can tool is working perfectly now. Nothing i did while parked was able to recognize the tool. I drove a few hundred feet and, while moving, pressed and held the button and voila!, the can tool went into config mode. I parked and went through all the config settings for the mini and it is set.

As for the JB+, it made an almost instantly noticeable difference. I have driven about 20 or so miles and it feels great!

Question- I am running 93 octane gas. All of the pumps around here say that the gas contains 10% ethanol or may contain up to 10% ethanol. Does that have any affect on mixing in 10-20% e85?

 

Dose this come with preset High-jacking modes. I got my stuff in today but there is no BMS USB cable. Am I going to need this IOT run the CAN tool. Or is it all plug and play. If so when would I need the BMS USB? help me out guys, Because I am so itching to plug and Play

 

you dont need any of that. Just plug it in, hold the button for a couple of seconds and look up the chart on the instalarion instruction. The speedo will display which gauge youre hijacking and the tach will display the setting

 

Thanks. Currently waiting prescribed 15 Min with hood open and doors locked. Then the install begins

 

LOL. For a second I was going insane because I ordered mine 3 days ago and still didn't get a shipping code. But just to make sure I double checked my Email. It shipped...16 hours ago.