Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 08:51 PM
  #551  
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Would you guys say the CAN tool is worth the extra 130 bucks? How are you liking the boost gauge speedo feature?

Also, at the risk of being tarred and feathered, I haven't found a solid response on whether or not this trips a code the dealer can find. Logic says no based off the way it works, but if someone could just humor me....
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:04 PM
  #552  
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Originally Posted by ChaiLatte
Would you guys say the CAN tool is worth the extra 130 bucks? How are you liking the boost gauge speedo feature?

Also, at the risk of being tarred and feathered, I haven't found a solid response on whether or not this trips a code the dealer can find. Logic says no based off the way it works, but if someone could just humor me....
The JB+ is completely removable and leaves no trace of your car every being "tuned." Technically, the DME does log boost values so if you threw a rod, or melted a piston from running like 30psi of boost they'd be able to tell, but the JB+ won't boost nearly that high, and our car's MAP sensors can't see over 21'psi anyway. Also, you're clutch would definitely crap out before you see engine killing levels of power.

Keep in mind the factory JCW tuning kit takes you to similar power levels as the JB+ but for way less $$
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:08 PM
  #553  
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assuming im taking my car in for basic maintenance(oil change, ect.)...is there any reason why i should remove it?

i cant imagine theyd deny my oil change, but do they take note of this sort of stuff for warranty work later on?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #554  
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Originally Posted by Mcameron
assuming im taking my car in for basic maintenance(oil change, ect.)...is there any reason why i should remove it?

i cant imagine theyd deny my oil change, but do they take note of this sort of stuff for warranty work later on?
Seeing as how it takes ~10 seconds, I'd definitely do it. The guys at my dealer all drive modded cars, so it depends on where you live if you want to chance it.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:52 PM
  #555  
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Originally Posted by ChaiLatte
Would you guys say the CAN tool is worth the extra 130 bucks? How are you liking the boost gauge speedo feature?
It's kind of cool but it's also distracting. I don't feel like it's a must-have.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 10:13 PM
  #556  
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Originally Posted by Mcameron
assuming im taking my car in for basic maintenance(oil change, ect.)...is there any reason why i should remove it?

i cant imagine theyd deny my oil change, but do they take note of this sort of stuff for warranty work later on?
Absolutely take it off. Do you really want to risk the hassle it could cause for something that takes a few minutes a few times a year? When you're out of warranty feel free to leave it on.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:10 PM
  #557  
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Originally Posted by ChaiLatte
Would you guys say the CAN tool is worth the extra 130 bucks? How are you liking the boost gauge speedo feature?
I have to say that I really enjoy it after 1k miles. I had forgotten to plug the CAN tool back in after I was running my bluethooth adapter and Torque app (wanted to compare boost pressure between what I had been seeing on the speedo and what was showing on the app - which were spot on) and I even pulled over to plug it in since I missed the speedo/fuel hijacking. Also, I like the turn signal shift light feature, especially at night
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 02:53 PM
  #558  
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Feedback and 1st Impressions

After about 200 miles these are my observations on the JB+ (Using 93 octane 10% ethanol blend Shell V Power). 2013 Cooper S Hatch:

Boost (measured on an accurate analog Boost gauge with peak recall) was measured at 14.2 psi at 60 degrees F this am. On the way home I hit 15.5 at highway speeds at 67F and light rain. The boosts peaks quickly, holds steady and then climbs slowly under heavy full throttle pulls. Pre-JB+ it would release shortly after reaching its peak. Now it doesn't release until you back out of the accelerator. Under warmer temps and maybe a little more break in I wouldn't be surprised to see 16+ psi. The car was quick b4 with my mods (DDM Works Race Intake, Forge Intercooler and ALTA 3" catback) but I think it has more constant grunt now. I do believe that it pulls harder and longer on the sustained boost. Pre JB+ the highest boost I have observed was 14 psi when it was about 90 degrees F.

On the flip side I believe I'm seeing about a 10-15% drop in overall fuel economy under similar driving habits. I think this may be due to the turbo spooling up under less accelerator - so I may be able to reclaim the fuel efficiency by using less pedal than b4. Prior to the JB+ I was averaging about 38-39 mpg combined (40 was not unheard of but devoid of any fun). Highway mpg likewise appears to be down somewhat on cruise control. More time will tell.
 

Last edited by PenguinOnTheTelly; Oct 12, 2013 at 06:54 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #559  
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Originally Posted by Jim Christensen
After about 200 miles these are my observations on the JB+ (Using 93 octane 10% ethanol blend Shell V Power). 2013 Cooper S Hatch: Boost (measured on an accurate analog Boost gauge with peak recall) was measured at 14.2 psi at 60 degrees F this am. On the way home I hit 15.5 at highway speeds at 67F and light rain. The boosts peaks quickly, holds steady and then climbs slowly under heavy full throttle pulls. Pre-JB+ it would release shortly after reaching its peak. Now it doesn't release until you back out of the accelerator. Under warmer temps and maybe a little more break in I wouldn't be surprised to see 16+ psi. The car was quick b4 with my mods (DDM Works Race Intake, Forge Intercooler and ALTA 3" catback) but I think it has more constant grunt now. I do believe that it pulls harder and longer on the sustained boost. Pre JB+ the highest boost I have observed was 14 psi when it was about 90 degrees F. On the flip side I believe I'm seeing about a 10-15% drop in overall fuel economy under similar driving habits. I think this may be due to the turbo spooling up under less accelerator - so I may be able to reclaim the fuel efficiency by using less pedal than b4. Prior to the JB+ I was averaging about 38-39 mpg combined (40 was not unheard of but devoid of any fun). Highway mpg likewise appears to be down somewhat on cruise control. More time will tell.
More boost = more fuel usage.

Sent from my banana phone
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 04:45 AM
  #560  
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will the jb+ work on uk spec cars
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:53 AM
  #561  
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JB+ with Sprint Booster???

I currently have a Sprint Booster installed. Should I remove it prior to installing the JB+? Not sure if there will be any contraindications to running both at the same time.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #562  
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Originally Posted by Roxspin72
I currently have a Sprint Booster installed. Should I remove it prior to installing the JB+? Not sure if there will be any contraindications to running both at the same time.
You can leave it, just hold on :D. Or dial it back a bit, you won't need it as much but it'll still add fun no doubt.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #563  
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Originally Posted by Roxspin72
I currently have a Sprint Booster installed. Should I remove it prior to installing the JB+? Not sure if there will be any contraindications to running both at the same time.
All sprint booster does is amplify the throttle signal via a set of resistors. When you push the pedal in 25% it may read 45% etc. Sprint booster makes the last bit of your gas pedal stroke useless as the throttle can't read over 100%. Hope you didn't sped too much money on that gimmick.
tl;dr, you can make your own sprint booster by mashing the gas...
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:20 PM
  #564  
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All sprint booster does is amplify the throttle signal via a set of resistors. When you push the pedal in 25% it may read 45% etc. Sprint booster makes the last bit of your gas pedal stroke useless as the throttle can't read over 100%. Hope you didn't sped too much money on that gimmick.
tl;dr, you can make your own sprint booster by mashing the gas...

umm no, it doesnt.

it doesnt act as linearly as 25% = 45%, what it does is steepen the throttle curve

like this:


that way there is no "dead spot" in the pedal.

i have the D1 SPEC in my car and love it, makes the pedal much more responsive......ive driven with the stock mode, and ive driven with the throttle adjuster, and i can tell you just mashing the pedal is not quote the same.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:25 PM
  #565  
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I believe that the JB+ remaps the throttle also, so it would be redundant. I could be mistaken though.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #566  
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The sprint booster is a lot like SI drive in the STi and LGT, it changes the requested torque percent for a given accel pedal angle. Increasing the RT value at a lesser pedal angle will essentially bring the power on earlier (actually references a target boost value, so the ecu is requesting x boost at y pedal angle(I.E. Requ tq), and can be edited in the tables).

The JB+ makes it feel like the throttle and boost comes on earlier with less requirement of pedal angle. Just ditch the booster lol.

Sent from my banana phone
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #567  
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I believe that the JB+ remaps the throttle also, so it would be redundant. I could be mistaken though.
i dont think it does, as its only connected to the MAF sensor(which has no bearing on the throttle mapping). however, the added power may make it FEEL as though it has a remapped throttle.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #568  
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Any dyno graphs yet?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #569  
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Originally Posted by D-MAN
Any dyno graphs yet?
Anyone know of a good dyno place in Raleigh, NC? I'll go and get it done.

If I do, will I have to go twice? How long does it take to go back to stock after removing the JB+?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:00 PM
  #570  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
Anyone know of a good dyno place in Raleigh, NC? I'll go and get it done.

If I do, will I have to go twice? How long does it take to go back to stock after removing the JB+?
A before and after dyno would be great

Because it is a piggyback as soon as you remove it you are back to the stock tune instantly.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #571  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
Anyone know of a good dyno place in Raleigh, NC? I'll go and get it done.

If I do, will I have to go twice? How long does it take to go back to stock after removing the JB+?
You can do the runs at the same time but it takes a couple adaption runs at least to adapt to the JB+ and a few to adapt away from it. So plan on spending an hour or so doing runs to get a good before and after result.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #572  
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Cool, I start will the JB+ first then go back to stock.

Now to find a place...
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 08:35 PM
  #573  
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Originally Posted by Mcameron
umm no, it doesnt.

it doesnt act as linearly as 25% = 45%, what it does is steepen the throttle curve

like this:


that way there is no "dead spot" in the pedal.

i have the D1 SPEC in my car and love it, makes the pedal much more responsive......ive driven with the stock mode, and ive driven with the throttle adjuster, and i can tell you just mashing the pedal is not quote the same.
I agree that linear throttle map is ideal, but I don't think it's worth the $$$ for something that just changes the "feel" of the throttle.

Yes the throttle response will seem better, but the same results could be achieved by simply pushing the accelerator further, or pushing the sport button if you're lazy. I believe that 100% throttle with sprint booster and 100% throttle stock will produce exactly the same power.

Much like the sport button, sprint booster will make your car feel faster, but it won't actually be any faster than quickly mashing the gas, which doesn't cost anything.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:13 PM
  #574  
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Originally Posted by borderwave2
I agree that linear throttle map is ideal, but I don't think it's worth the $$$ for something that just changes the "feel" of the throttle.

Yes the throttle response will seem better, but the same results could be achieved by simply pushing the accelerator further, or pushing the sport button if you're lazy. I believe that 100% throttle with sprint booster and 100% throttle stock will produce exactly the same power.

Much like the sport button, sprint booster will make your car feel faster, but it won't actually be any faster than quickly mashing the gas, which doesn't cost anything.
From your comment I can tell you have never used one
I was sceptical before I installed mine on my old r53 but it does make a big difference!
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:45 PM
  #575  
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I have a D1Spec and my JB+ is on order. I'll let you know how it works in combo.

For those that haven't used a Sprint Booster or D1 Spec, I honestly don't think you know what you're missing. It makes the car significantly more fun to drive. Does it add more power? No. But it certainly makes it more responsive with less effort. The D1 can be had for $110. Little investment, lots of fun. (just my opinion but seems to be the same with everyone who uses one)
 
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