Originally Posted by SooperCuperErik

Internal swapping is literally 1 minute. You just pop off the cover and everything pops off.

My question is-- how tightly are you guys screwing your bolts back in?
I don't want to over torque it, but mine are pretty tight with a socket wrench and torx socket, Its about a 8" handle, so figure the torque to about 2/3 ft * how ever many lbs of force i'm putting on it.

I can torque them tighter if i wanted, as applying a decent amt of pressure will still rotate the bolts, but i don't want to overtorque them or strip anything.

However, the used WMW DV I bought is causing compressor surge on shifts. I took it off and the diaphram was good, showed it to Jan and he suggested I put the WMW one back on, since its uprated from stock. I want to go with the 710D, but need to figure out if this DV is faulty or its something else.

I know, I should put the stock back on and see if I still get the problem. If so I'm probably not tightening it enough, but its also not like I have these bolts on loose or anything. I can wrench, so I halfway know what I'm doing.

Originally Posted by killerfox

It takes about 20 minutes to remove the factory valve, swap the internals with the VW internals and then install back into car.

Originally Posted by phlash

Thank you!

I ain't sceeered, just confirming methods.....

Originally Posted by Bigprfed22

The operation of the valve is not affected by how tight it is on. I believe you would get a code if you had a leak anyway. Dont over do it, if the valve is not working properly, dont over do the torque. get it nice and snug and leave it be before you make the mistakes i have in the past with other vehicles.

Originally Posted by SooperCuperErik

The diaphram is whole, the spring force is good, and all internal pieces look undamaged, functions just like the stock one when moved with the hand. Not sure why its causing surging. boo

Originally Posted by Bigprfed22

try comparing the spring to the factory one, if it is significantly stronger, thats normal. The alta spring i upgraded to causes less flow which i love but is noticable and it seems like surge. If it just sounds different its not a big deal... i actually want surge lol keep that boost in the system. If your getting surge and you ahave a boost gauge youll notice the boost stay in the system a lot longer than with a div ot bov.

Originally Posted by SooperCuperErik

Unless your compressor wheel stalling, thats no good

Originally Posted by ThumperMCS

Yea trust me...I'm usually hard to impress with these "simple, but makes a huge difference" mods. Im convinced people just think they are making a bigger difference than they really are. Like the polyurethane torque arm inserts for the motor mount that everyone always raves about....I have one but never saw why people thought it was such a great mod. Doesn't make that big of a difference.

This though....is grrrreeeat. Really changes the drivability of the car. Those that like the BOV sound noise of the stock dv might be disappointed though...the 710D is pretty darn silent (I have an open intake too), it's worth it though.

And you shouldn't have to order it, my audi dealer had a ton in stock. VW should have them too.

Originally Posted by Dwight Walhood

Got some questions about this Audi/VW DV so I'll put the arm on you, lol. I already have the WMW DV on my MCS and it was a good improvement over the OEM. I'm running Jan's modified boost tune and am seeing ~20psi on full boost with the MCS turbo. Do you think switching to the Audi valve would show much improvement in boost lag and engine braking? Might get it just because it doesn't have that rubber diaphragm. One less thing to worry about! Thanks

Originally Posted by ThumperMCS

I dont know what valve the WMW is because Way is so secretive about it...lol so I can't comment on what kind of improvement you'll see. Just judging from the price...he can't be making that much money on them so I don't know why he feels its necessary to scratch the part numbers off. But hey, it ain't my business....

I can promise that it won't be a step backwards though...and plus even it performed exactly the same as the WMW....its worth it just for having metal-piston internals vs a rubber diaphragm. I can pretty much guarantee you'll see an improvement...as far as recirculating DV's go the 710D is the most current and best there is out there.

All I can say is every aspect of engine operation+boost is smoother. Whether its putzing around town or driving "spiritedly"....the improvement is always noticeable.

Originally Posted by Bigprfed22

i think i will be too, i will also swap the spring aswell into the new valve

Originally Posted by silhouette88

I know it's a lot to ask but would you be willing to test it with both springs and give us your feedback? I know at least one person who would be curious about the results.

Originally Posted by Bigprfed22

Ofcourse, i have the spring in the factory valve right now and that was a wonderful improvement. once i get the audi valve ill say what i feel to be different. I just wonder if the actual solenoid is different as well as the diaphram area.

Originally Posted by killerfox

you can not use the solenoid, just the internal plunger.

Originally Posted by Bigprfed22

So the audi valve isnt a direct replacement but you just use the diaphram plunger and swap it in to the factory one?


Im just wondering if it is a direct swap, if the audi vw valv has a stronger solenoid etc etc...

Originally Posted by killerfox

not a direct replacement, my understanding is the voltage is different.
read this: http://etuners.gr/index.php?s=12&t=2

Originally Posted by Dwight Walhood

Got the Audi -710D valve and while waiting for the engine to cool down before install, I decided to give it a real it close look and compare to the OEM valve that I still had. As stated elsewhere, you cannot use the Audi housing, only the insides. Different electrical connection and the Audi's has an alignment pin that the MCS doesn't. First thing I noticed is that the inside of the 710D has changed since 2yrs ago. Instead of the steel sleeve for the plunger to slide in, it is now plastic. Compare my pic to the one in this thread. The springs are rather different, too. The 710D's is not only stiffer, but is 1/4" longer then the OEM. There is no comparison to the amount of air the 710D will flow to that of the OEM. Common engine, cool down! Maybe I'll even find that bolt I lost the first time I swapped this part, lol.

Originally Posted by Bigprfed22

hmm i think i might double up my springs for a super tight closure...



HMMM i think i might do it tonight! i will write up when i complete this.





PS : i quoted you so i can tell you to let it cool down a lot... i scorched myself.

Originally Posted by Dwight Walhood

LMAO! I scorched myself, too, the first time I tried this. Pain is always a good memory enhancer.

I'd advise against doubling up on the springs and stick with the spring that comes with the Audi valve. Proper spring tension is rather critical to how a DV works.

Common engine, cool down!

Originally Posted by Bigprfed22

just used both springs with a tiny washer in between them and got my result with no effect, slight fltters on high boost like the challenge jcw. No cel, boost drops out of the system slower.