Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain If your R56 is dropping boost check this:

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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 01:39 AM
  #51  
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Thanks. I have a factory JCW, seems not recommended for this one :(

different turbo etc..
 
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 06:41 AM
  #52  
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From: mount laurel, NJ
Originally Posted by northernchap
Thanks. I have a factory JCW, seems not recommended for this one :(

different turbo etc..
you are thinking of the WMW valve, this is a good upgrade for your turbo. Thumper just put one in his car and he has the JCW turbo. Check out a few posts before this and see his impressions.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 07:03 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by northernchap
Thanks. I have a factory JCW, seems not recommended for this one :(

different turbo etc..
thumperMCS has JCW turbo ON his MCS
 
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #54  
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very interesting. europarts.com has it for $65.

question - will it work on 2011 MCS? just need a quick confirmation before placing the order
 
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #55  
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Thanks for the tip k-huevo and Thumper, I just ordered one.
 

Last edited by silhouette88; Apr 2, 2011 at 12:08 AM. Reason: realized k-huevo mentioned this part earlier
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by ThumperMCS
06H 145 710D
Thank you. ECSTuning has them instock.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 09:14 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by k-huevo
Credit where credit is due; here's how it's done. http://etuners.gr/index.php?s=12&t=2
Thanks for the how to post reference. I just ordered one from europaparts for $75.00 including tax and will install and post results as soon as I get it.

 
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 08:41 PM
  #58  
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Just did this to my DV on my MCS. Figured it was such a cheap and easy mod why the hell not.

Over all the car seems to get the same results as Thumpers. I am not sure how great the improvement was compared to his as he has the JCW turbo and I am still using the stock MCS one. In any case shifting is smoother, boost recovery is improved and the DV is quieter ( near silent at low RPM ).

Peak boost along with boost spike levels went up too. Peak boost seemed to hang around 20.8 up from 19.5. Spikes are as high as 22.9 up from 20.1.
It's not a huge issue since my boost cut is set a little higher, but cars using stock maps or close to stock might trip a soft limp mode by hitting the boost cut limit during hard shifts.

Construction wise there is more plastic then I expected. I am not sure how much longer the outer ring will last over stock, only time will tell i guess. The fact it ditches the rubber diaphragm is a big plus though.

All in all it's not a bad mod and is far cheaper then some of the other DV upgrades.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #59  
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I just returned from a test drive after doing this mod. I see similar results...all around smoother in shifts and boost seems more "there" than variable during shifts. I don't have a boost gage so this is just seat of pants data. This is easy to do and worth the small money just from a performance perspective and it gets rid of the rubber issue.

I'm a happy boy. Thanks for the info!!!

 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 03:08 PM
  #60  
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i've ordered the AP, and have the vw/audi -710D DV ready to install. anyone know if the alta spring upgrade for the OEM DV will be an upgrade for the spring in the audi -710D DV?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 01:43 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by alex123
very interesting. europarts.com has it for $65.

question - will it work on 2011 MCS? just need a quick confirmation before placing the order
+1
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 07:45 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by phxsteele
For example I will be in fourth gear going 50 or 60 and hit the throttle and I will get a quick shot of boost then nothing until I back off and hit it again. Sometimes this will happen a few times for getting full boost back.
This sounds awful familiar.....you notice this just when you quickly drop the throttle to the floor? Just normal gentle roll on throttle is fine?

I just ordered the VW/Audi one to try to resolve this issue that Jan and I have been screwing with for a few months.....

Maybe this is finally the magic bullet.....I'll report back....

Ordered it from europarts. Local dealer wanted $128....FTW? That was his discounted rate.....geez...I can wait a few days.

- Just to confirm, this is NOT a direct swap correct? We are just swapping internals?
 

Last edited by phlash; Apr 11, 2011 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 09:23 AM
  #63  
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Threw this on today. I will see if this fixes my high speed boost loss issue with Jan's High Boost tune. My issue was over 120 mph and when I let off I would need to drop the RPMs down below 4k to start building boost again. (Kinda embarrassing when I have to slow down because of the big Audi creeping in the left lane and when he finally moves out of the way I can't gain any speed again till I slow way down...) That was around 18psi when it would start to loose it.
Short test drive is showing me about 1.5-2 PSI higher with the stock map as well.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #64  
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Fixed my issues with the valve staying open during hard shifts.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 06:26 PM
  #65  
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Ordered from Europarts / Europaparts.com last week and it finally arrived today. Can't wait to swap the internals and feel what you guys are feeling.

 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 10:06 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by silhouette88
Ordered from Europarts / Europaparts.com last week and it finally arrived today. Can't wait to swap the internals and feel what you guys are feeling.

Stop taking pictures and go put it on
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by ThumperMCS
Stop taking pictures and go put it on
But...it's sooo purrrrty.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 04:40 AM
  #68  
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Having the RMW recommended diverter mod done today while the oil supply line for the turbo is being replaced. I too am having the sporadic over-boost issue. Boost gauge is peaking at 20.7 PSIg before the MINI goes into limp-mode.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:04 AM
  #69  
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Got rid of SOME of my problems. Mine still stumbles a bit about 19.5-20lbs of boost. That is better than really stumbling bad at around 18lbs.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #70  
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If it is generating a fault code and triggering limp mode, either boost cut is involved, or the diaphragm is torn. The VAG hybrid doesn't prevent programed boost cut; that's a software ceiling.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #71  
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No fault codes for mine.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 11:45 AM
  #72  
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lets try this another way.....I have this on order...I am reading within this and other threads two different things.....here the theme seems to be, replacing the internals on the stock DV with the internals of this VW item.....On another thread I see people saying stuff like..."it took me just 20 minutes to pull the old one off and put this one on..."

So which is it?

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #73  
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From: mount laurel, NJ
Originally Posted by phlash
lets try this another way.....I have this on order...I am reading within this and other threads two different things.....here the theme seems to be, replacing the internals on the stock DV with the internals of this VW item.....On another thread I see people saying stuff like..."it took me just 20 minutes to pull the old one off and put this one on..."

So which is it?

Thanks
It takes about 20 minutes to remove the factory valve, swap the internals with the VW internals and then install back into car.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #74  
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Dont be "SCURRRRRRED"
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #75  
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Internal swapping is literally 1 minute. You just pop off the cover and everything pops off.

My question is-- how tightly are you guys screwing your bolts back in?
I don't want to over torque it, but mine are pretty tight with a socket wrench and torx socket, Its about a 8" handle, so figure the torque to about 2/3 ft * how ever many lbs of force i'm putting on it.

I can torque them tighter if i wanted, as applying a decent amt of pressure will still rotate the bolts, but i don't want to overtorque them or strip anything.

However, the used WMW DV I bought is causing compressor surge on shifts. I took it off and the diaphram was good, showed it to Jan and he suggested I put the WMW one back on, since its uprated from stock. I want to go with the 710D, but need to figure out if this DV is faulty or its something else.

I know, I should put the stock back on and see if I still get the problem. If so I'm probably not tightening it enough, but its also not like I have these bolts on loose or anything. I can wrench, so I halfway know what I'm doing.
 
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