I just picked up a 03 MCS, and it has a slipping clutch at 80k. Looking to get stock like drive-ability and be able to hold some minor mods like a 15%pulley/CAI/exhaust/tune. I think stock or close to stock should work because as I understand it they work for mildly modified jcw's. I'll be happy if I can get at least 50k out of a clutch.

Stock setup seems expensive and I don't want a bunch of noises that can develop from DM flywheels.
I won't go with spec as I've had problems with them on other platforms.
Clutchmasters seem just as iffy.
So I'm leaning towards the valeo but I can't find any reviews or anybody with experience with it.

Anybody out there running a valeo SM flywheel kit, and if so any thoughts on it?

 

We've sold a couple of the Valeo kits and haven't had any complaints Most the clutches we do at the shop are OEM or the OS Giken setups.

 

Was going to call you guys in the morning for your thoughts, so thanks for chiming in. Will probably give you a ring as I have a couple of questions about gaskets as well.

OS Giken usually makes great products, but my days of spending more then a $1k on clutches are done and over with. It's one of the main reasons I moved to the mini platform.

Only other thing I'm really considering is the stock clutch option from detroit tuning paired with a DM Luk flywheel for about $650.

Any body with experience with that option feel free to chime in too.

 

Jeff at Texas Speedwerks said they had been running the Valeo 4 piece set (with the solid flywheel and sprung clutch), and they really liked it. Apparently the flywheel is a bit lighter than the stock dual-mass, and it had a crisp feel in use.

Now that TSW sold the business to Way, we unfortunately don't hear anything from them anymore.

 

QXXOTIC, and SeanKidd are 2 people who I know who have had the Valeo kit installed on their MCS and both have had positive things to say about the kit.

BTW, I believe the supplier for the OEM DM flywheel is LUK.

 

Looks like there probably isn't much drawback to the SM flywheel. Hopefully I'll have it in by Christmas. If I do I'll write a review for everybody.

 

Ok.. Ok.

I'll chime in here. myself.

I hadn't thought of it specifically but I have noticed what feels like quicker acceleration with the new single mass system.. It could be that the flywheel set is lighter although we should have weighed it out of the car before it was installed. I have been impressed with the feel and had no problems with vibration or any ill effects at all. I have almost 700 miles on it so far and am a happy camper ... er, motorer...


Jim

 

I wonder how much power this Valeo setup can handle, any thoughts? Also, any note on chatter?

 

While I have the car apart to do a clutch job (Valeo kit looks like it's gonna be my best option), what are some things that should be done at the same time?

Isn't there a sleeve to be replaced in there somewhere? Any other recommendations of parts to have on hand?

My clutch is rather strange. While cold and making the chewbacca noise, the clutch engagement feels smooth and great. But when warm and no longer making the chewbacca sound, and especially in stop and go traffic where the clutch is used a lot, the pedal starts to feel "crunchy". It makes a sound like an old rusty door hinge too. Goes away after letting the car sit overnight and feels smooth again. Any idea what this could be?

 

I haven't done the job yet so I can't tell you what else would be great to get done.

WMW suggested(because I pushed him for stuff that would be good to do at the same time) front sway bar bushings and (lower)? control arm bushings since I would already have the sub frame out.

There is a guide sleeve that mini suggest you replace. I don't know if it's really necessary but I would suggest it for you anyways because yours could have wear on it, based off your description, besides it's only a couple of $'s more.

Other then that I would probably suggest starting your own thread for this because you will probably get more responses.

 

Aside from what is included in the Valeo kit (flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disk, TO bearing, new bolts), you will also want the replace the guide tube that the TO bearing rides on, as well as the 2 plastic bushings that the clutch release fork shaft is supported by.

By the way, when I do my clutch in the near future, I plan on removing the engine/trans out of the car instead of removing the front subframe and dropping just the transmission while supporting the engine. Not only will I have less work (removing the MFE is much easier than the front subframe), but I will also have much more room to work on the actual clutch components.

 

I believe you'll still need to drop the sub frame to gain access to the starter wires and the bolts that hole the pass. drive shaft to the block. In the big picture it is much easier to drop the sub frame. I would still take both the engine and trans out together though.

 

The right side drive shaft can be removed without dropping the subframe. (I just did it a few weeks ago to replace the front wheel bearings).

I don't have experience removing just the starter wires, but I can double check with R35P3CT DA M1N1, as he just recently did what I am planning on doing. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...849-post1.html

 

It is much easier to just remove the subframe than take the whole engine out.

Have fun changing the clutch arm bushings they are a pain. I've only had one car in 8 yrs I had to change the guide tube in. I do always check them to make sure they have to wear marks or grooves.

 

I was thinking the same thing about removing the engine. I could do it if I needed to, but seems like allot of disconnecting/re-assembly for a clutch. Then again I'm not sure what all is involved in dropping the front sub-frame yet, waiting on my bentley manual.

Way,

I know you said don't worry about the guide sleeve if it's in good shape. Do you recommend replacing those clutch fork bushings? I plan on having the car for a long time, so I would hate to have to climb back into it just for that.

 

Wanted to update, now that I have some miles on the clutch.

10k miles and so far so good. No noises or issues. It does feel a little tight going into first occasionally but that's it. Can't really compare it to Stock because mine was bad when I got it, but it feels like a normal clutch, not like any of the aftermarket ones I've had.

Did have an issue with the actual parts, was missing 1 flywheel bolt. Way managed to take care of it for me though.

 

So, did you go with the Valeo solid FW? I am about to pull the trigger on either the Valeo solid FW conversion or the Exedy (BMK1001FW) solid FW conversion kit. I haven't heard of anyone that has installed the Exedy so I am not sure if I will chance it. I am also worried about excessive noise ( car is noisy as it is, everything rattles) if I go with a light FW and a race clutch. I am also concerned with the fact that my car is moderately modified and I am not sure if the Valeo is strong enough.

 

Yeah went with the whole valeo kit.

Like I said, there is no noise. A buddy of mine swears he can hear some slight rattling of his clutch disc while shifting/driving around with the clutch disengaged and the windows down, but I've sat in the car with him and can't hear it. So if it's there, it's very slight.

Really doesn't compare to any of the twin-disc or 6 puck clutches I've had. Certainly better then dealing with the wookie sound a 2-piece fw can make.

Power wise I might be concerned. Looking at the clutch it appeared to have slightly less surface area. They might have a different clutch material then stock that is better to make up for it, but I'm not sure. Then again if your stocker is holding up so far, I would expect the valeo to last as well.

Only power mod I have on my car is a 17% pulley, not even tuned. My buddy has a 15%/CAI/IC and possibly a few other mods. Neither of us have had any problems yet.

 

Cool! I need a clutch ASAP. What you mentioned about the Valeo clutch surface area is what I noticed. The Exedy has more but I haven't found any reviews that will steer me towards the Exedy. I definitely don't want any additional noise or rattles that is why I want something close to OEM as possible but eliminating the DM FW.

My driving habits are moderate. I never drop the clutch but I do shift aggressively (redline), from time to time. I may consider Autocross this next season. The car is putting low 200'ish HP at the wheels. I wonder how well the Valeo will hold up.

 

I'm really leaning towards the Valeo myself. Racket your the first person anywhere on the Net that has said anything about it. Please keep us updated.

Also where did you pick your's up from?

 

were running the Valeo conversion kit on their autocross car more than a year ago, and Jeff liked it. Hooked-up predictably and smoothly, and he felt acceleration was a bit better due to (slightly) lower rotational mass.

Way bought the TSW products (so we unfortunately don't hear from Jeff anymore), and he also sells the Valeo kits. From my perspective, it is the most practical way to get away from the silly dual-mass flywheel design in a street car -- and my Valeo kit is patiently sitting in the garage waiting for installation.

 

Love the Valeo. Had mine for a while now and never slipped.

 

What kind of power are you putting down?

This is driving me crazy, I am between the Valeo and the Exedy. Got a labor quote today of $1,120 for clutch and slave install. Not too bad I think.

 

Just shy of 215.

 

At the wheels? Nice. How is the clutch pedal feel? Did you compare the original disc with the Valeo? The Valeo disc friction area looks small (from what I can see in the pictures). Then again I haven't seen the OEM.