So last night I installed the RR catless DP. All was fine, and even this morning when the CEL came on, I was having no issues. On the drive home from school, I noticed that when I got on it in second, it was NOT pulling like it should be.

I don't have a OBDII reader on hand, so I can't check the code.

Has anyone experienced similar issues? My understanding is that the catless DP's will throw a code, but not put the car in limp mode. I'm taking off the heatshield once everything cools down to check if everything is torqued down. It doesn't sound like I have an exhaust leak, so I'm confused. I think I'm going to check the actuator while I have the heatshield off, but I'm clueless as to what's going on.

If it's the code that is doing it, which I really hope it is, I'll have my friend reset it tomorrow. What is the possibility that this could be something more heinous? What are the signs of a turbo failing?

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

 

Well. Everything is torqued down. Actuator is nice and tight. So it's either the code or the turbo on it's way out. Turbo still sounds good so it's the damn code.

Disappointing, I was hoping there would be no limp mode associated with my codes. Now I have to reset it every 100 miles

 

I'm not saying this is your problem but other than my downpipe coming loose several times and ruining my valvecovers, I did come across a wierd little problem.

At one point, I simply wasn't making boost. I thought it was wierd, I checked what I could and even took it to the dealer (that was a complete waste of time)

Anyway, after taking the downpipe off for the umpteenth time, I realized that the little nut that is screwed on to the end of the actuator rod had come off. (wierd, I've NEVER touched that nut before)

Point is, when the vacuum pulled the arm back, there was no nut to close the wastegate so there was no boost made.

The car ran fine, it just didn't make power.

I attached the nut and of course, once again I asked a few techs on the proper adjustment of the nut and once again, I received no help. (the only thing they knew to do was replace the turbo as a whole... they have NO idea or documentation on how to adjust, fix, maintain anything on the turbo)

Anyway, attached a nut, adjusted it the way it should have been and all was well.

May or may not be your problem but it's easy to see/fix if that is the problem.

Mark

 

I checked the actuator. It was a little loose, so I just had to tighten that same nut a little bit.

I picked up a little crappy code reader. I cleared the code I knew I was going to be getting, but came into one I didn't expect.

P2187. I'm pretty sure it's leaking where the downpipe couples with the rest of the system. I'm going to have to figure out how to clamp the downpipe to the rest of the system, the v-band just isn't cutting it I guess. It's loud as SHAT up front, while the noise coming out of the back end is minimal. On top of that, when I really get on it, I sound like a ricer out of hell. So before I leave for Maryland this weekend, I have to sort this out. Hopefully I'll get it done tomorrow.

If it's not just an exhaust leak, I don't very much like the other possible reasons I would throw that code. But I really don't see any reason why it would be anything other than an exhaust leak.

On the bright side, after clearing the p2187, I had a lot of fun in my car. It pulls hard all the way through second instead of falling on its face higher in the rev range. I am very pleased.

 

RICE! you are from md? You should join Central Maryland Mini Motorist (CMMM) I would love to see your car at the next meet!

anywhoo... back to topic. continue

EDIT: woops... i should read your post more carefully. Before you leave for maryland (indicating you are not from md) my bad!

 

No, not from Maryland. I'm driving down to Ocean City this weekend for a show.

 

Whoa, what do you mean you had to tighten up the nut? You realize that there should be a little bit of play, right? If you tighten it up, you're effectively making the wastegate close sooner which may have an effect when it automatically opens to dump the pressure.

The only way to adjust that nut is to have the downpipe off the car, pull the actuator rod like you're emulating full vacuum and then adjust the nut/rod assy. At full vacuum (rod pulled back) the wastegate should close fully.

It may not make any significant difference but I wouldn't randomly tighten that nut up.


Just out of curiousity, did you get the error code after you tightened the nut or before?

Last but not least, code P2187 which is System to lean at idle bank 1 means it's lean, if you have a leak from the exhaust, I would think the exhaust would blow out the bad connection... meaning, it wouldn't be sucking air and therefore making it lean.

I'm not saying your code isn't from the downpipe nor from a leak, I'm saying I'd check to see why you're getting that code, you may have other issues.

Of course, logic is the dictator here. If you didn't have any codes or issues until you threw the downpipe on, then I would suspect that the odds of having something else go wrong is too much of a coincidence.

Let us know.

Mark

 

any update? Just got the rr dp as well...

 

Yeah. The turbo side was not completely tightened down all of the way. It was a hard place to check for leaks since it's so tight, but I retorqued it down and all is good.

 

Glad to hear all is well. Any tips with the install..also, did you wrap the dp?

Nick

 

I've had an issue for the past several months where if I drive very aggressively I'll lose the turbo. Sometimes it comes back on after after a shift, 5 minutes, or a restart.

I brought it to the dealer and they said a vacuum tube got lose and was causing the issue. About a day after it was "fixed" it started happening again.

It's funny every time I lose the turbo I just say to myself how in the world would anyone want to drive a base Cooper for just a couple grand less.

 

On the install… Make sure you follow alta's instructions (where they may apply) down to the detail. It is very important for fitment. Be extremely careful removing the wideband o2 sensor (which is the upstream o2) as well as fitting it. User Octane recommended that an anti-seize be used. In hindsight, this really should have been done, and now I'm going to be paying for it unless I can find a cheaper wideband o2.

I didn't wrap the DP because I have read that heat wrapping a ceramic coated downpipe can lead to problems because the ceramic coating won't be able to cure. I may wrap it in the future, but as far as I can tell, my under-bonnet temps (by feel of hand) are MUCH better than before. The nice thing about the RR I bought is you CAN reinstall the lower heatshield. It was just too much of a pain in the *** for me to do it though, so I didn't.

If I had to do it again, I would have started at noon and removed the front end. It would have made life a lot easier since I didn't have a lift. My hands are covered in cuts, removing the heatshield sucks big time, especially the lower portion. There are A LOT of tight spots, it would be good if you had some pivoting sockets.

Oh yeah, let the car cool down before you start, I'm guessing you already knew that.