This is the first 1/4-mile run I've tried since upgrading to the stage 3 AccessPORT tune. At 14.03, there's certainly potential for getting into the 13's if I improve my launch and shifting skills. I was pleased to break 100. I'm curious what kind of numbers folks who are good at this are getting. Post a result and show us what you can do!

 

Tried stage II with TPS for 91 octane. Hopefully I picked the right choice for K&N intake, HKS SSQV blow off valve and Invidia Q300 exhaust. Lovin' it and already wanting more. Can't wait for the Forge Intercooler, OBX catless downpipe, and Hard Boost Tubes

 

I have a few questions for you guys and
Gals out there...

Do you guys have a 93 octane stage 3 map?

Can your stock clutch handle 220 hp? The other day I floored it in second with dsc off because it kept cutting my power, and either my wheels spun out without getting torque steer, which never happens, or my clutch slipped.

Can you run the alta exhaust, downpipe, intercooler, & boost tube on factory tune? I want to decrease my gas consumption when I know I'm not trying to go fast.



What does tps stand for? The only thing I know of off the top of my head is tire pressure sensor.

 

Throttle position sensor, they offer tunes where the pedal position is more direct with how fast you go.

 

Is that hat they call the linear throttle maps? Thinking back on it, I shouldn't have loaded it considering I didn't know what it was, but I love the new pedal feel!

 

Since you don't have a full turbo back exhaust, you should be running a stage 1 map, not a stage 2 map. If you install the FMIC before the downpipe, you can then install the stage 1 + FMIC.

We do have a stage 3 93 octane map. You can get the map by doing an update plugging the AP into your computer and running an update with the AP manager.

The stock clutch can handle 220WHP and more.

You can run all of our parts with the stock tune and be OK. There is a chance that you will run an emissions code with a high flow downpipe though.

We have two different versions of all of our maps, one with the stock throttle feel, and one with a more linear throttle feel. The tps maps are the ones with the more linear throttle.

 

Most modern cars with an electronic gas pedal suffer from annoying delay which can be a little bit frustrating while rev matching. With some cars you need to hold the gas pedal for -- (it feels like a minute) -- maybe 1-2 secod before the revs begin to see the limiter. With the MINIs it's okay while the sport button is on because 30% on the gas pedal means about 50% for the ecu but the gas pedal still has that typical delay though it's less annoying because the non linear gas-throttle ratio. Cars with acclerator cable were perfect direct compared to today. You offer a more linear throttle feel. Does this also come with the typical electronic gas pedel lag or were you able to eliminate the lag and make gas pedal more direct while having a more linear throttle feeling?

 

Thanks, I guess I will downgrade back to stage 1 91 oct tps. After I put on the catless downpipe and FMIC, I will go up to stage 3 per your recommendation

Thanks

 

Have the Alta guys been working on the map that will allow for the pop and burble????

 

We are still working on the pop and burble, as soon as it is ready, we will make sure everyone is aware, thanks!

 

Would be great if you put together a short video/ sound clip when you get the pop and burble sorted, just to let us all hear the difference from stock to tuned.

 

 

Ordered mine this morning! Thanks again Chris for helping me out with everything!

Can't wait, should have it tomorrow

 

Sweet baby jebus!!! Works awesome! Thanks again Chris and Jesse! No more P0420, and crazy amounts more power all across the board!

 

Awesome! Enjoy the new tune!

 

Chris,
What is the difference between stage I and stage I plus? The reason that I ask is because when I got my AP, Jeff had to email me files and I had to manually place them into the AP. How do I know if I have stage I or stage 1+ maps? I sent Jeff an email but didn't hear back. Thanks!

 

Now what's the word on a nice pod mount to hold this thing right by the steering wheel?

EDIT: No pop and burble exhaust sound though like others have commented on...so looking for a tune that "officially" adds that lol

 

Craven Speed has one.
http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/...nting-Kit.html

 

CravenSpeed's stuff is so pricey. I'd rather just velcro it to the dashboard for that price.

 

ALTA- in one of your previous replies you gave this response, "That is part of the body module and at this point the AccessPORT only talks to the ECU".

Does this mean than some time in the future we could see the AccessPORT interacting with body modules?

Like interaction with the DSC, and possibily having some control over the ALL4 system in the new Countryman????

 

Ok, so I have read all 39 pages and yes on the street this all very impressive. But I have only seen one post about taking these tunes to the track. That surprises me. I figured I would find someone other than OC (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ne-review.html) who would put it to a long term, high intensity test. While 0-60 and 1/4 mile runs are fun, and "Pop and Burble" are a way to turn heads, there must be some others out there who are interested in putting a tune like this to really good use like shredding the doors on an M5 or the like.

OC, in his advertures at VIR, noted that his initial versions of these tunes threw codes. Even sent him into limp mode on the track. As he said in his post, it doesn't matter what kind of Hp a tune makes if it is going to do that. OC does credit Alta with very quickly updating his tunes. While it took several tries, they seem to have been able to resolve his issues. But before he was able to fully test it out, he had another little misadventure which resulted in him having to postpone this "testing". And it doesn't say much about all of the little variabilities between one Mini and another which has been noted thoughout this thead and how that will affect track performance. So that seems to leave us track users without much infomation.

If there is anyone else out there that has used the Alta AP tunes for a track day, what were your experiences? While OC says he thinks this is a good buy, it would be helpful to hear that from more than one source. The problem is that not all of us can get new tunes installed while we are at the track, so we need an tune that is robust to start with. If I missed someone's post out there on this subject, could you post a link here?

So a question to Alta on this subject - you seem to be willing to customize the tunes to an individual's needs/wants. Can you give us an intial tune that won't throw codes on the track but still make reasonable Hp? It seems that we can always record data, send it to you and you can fine tune it from there. BTY, for me I would like it to be streetable too, like these other tunes seem to be.

 

I have done 4 track days with my Alta tune and Stage 4 with Hybrid turbo setup, not at VIR unfortunately but at NJMP. their track is shorter but has a couple elavation changes, and the last day i went on it was setup for a half rally setup over at the North 1.9 mile track vs the south 2.25 mile track i usually race on.

my first run on the track i ran my 16 psi map which yielded a heavy dose of power and torque from 2400 straight to redline. the whole feeling of the car was more than great, in terms of power delivery it was flawless, just against a prepped GT3 RS you can't really do much when the car you're using is also your ride home... (open track days can really be a pain :P ) but anyway, i was able to run two laps as warm ups at about 95% on the stock map just to get a decent time, after the tune to 16 my time improved by nearly 8 seconds from power change alone, on par with a couple decently prepped but daily driven E36 M3s. my main issue with the 16 psi was that while power was extremely predictable and great to go, the launch software didn't really work... so launch control was not really aiding my starts at all. after a couple tries at holding it myself at the 4500 rpm launch point, i found the perfect way to launch without any launch control on yielding a 5.2 second 0-60 run according to the AccessPORT.

after the first day my main problem was brakes, figuring do it one part at a time, i switched to a set of SS lines i had waiting to be put on for a few months with some ATE Super Blue fluid. i also learned that -1.5 degrees negative camber on the rear tires works perfectly in terms of even heat distribution on the tread for NJMP. and increasing the front from -1.5 to -2 degrees of negative camber helped as well though my stability at high speed on the back straight (not that long compared to VIR but decent, usually make at least 120 mph). while camber changes helped shave another .4 seconds off my average lap time my second day was kinda killed by my lack of good pads, rotors survived but after nearly crashing from a major pad glazing i didn't want to risk it for the rest of that day...

Day 3 i swapped to my 19PSI map which put out 252whp but not as much torque, however the gains from stock were nearly 75whp at peak and nearly 100whp AT the old redline, torque isn't as high as most cars tho, i can post my dyno if anyone wants it. ANYWAY, the 19psi map ran like a charm for the first two laps, 3rd lap i started getting some misfiring on higher RPMS in 3rd and 4th gear when i used it. it was always cylinder 2, so upon Jeff's suggestion, i checked out the gapping and found that there was quite a bit of extra gap at about .0320 where i wanted it to be was 0.0180 so i changed the gap of all 4 cylinders and it cured the misfiring for the moment. All in all it was another very successful day, the tune took off another3 seconds from my lap time. the new Hawk pads worked great with TSW Rotors in front.

Day 4 was another day running the 19 psi map... first lap was great flawless reducing my best lap from day 3 by .02 seconds. More misfirings came up as well as a couple P2885 codes, checked waste gate length, BPV to see if it failed, everything... nothing was wrong, gapping was till on, and none of my fuel system pieces were getting over worked or running to intense a duty cycle. upon further inquiry, i found my primary 02 sensor has crapped out, which was throwing off my AFR causing tuning adjustments that resulted in some issues in misfires etc. I have yet to get my O2 sensor fixed, but that's on the docket for this coming tuesday and my dealer vehicle look over. the next open track day isn't for a while, but i'll have a video camera mounted in my car next time around, as well as youtube videos for everyone to see the difference between stock map on a stage 4 vs a tuned stage 4... i have a couple videos of my stage 4 going against a stage 2 E46 M3, he pulls away at 90+mph, but its dead even which isn't bad considering my friend in the M3 has a full exhaust, cams, intake, and tune putting out around 380hp or so...

All in all, car defects aside, running 19 psi on a hybrid turbo with alta's tune has been working great at the track as well as on the road, the power is extremely linear and won't destroy tires unless you have a very heavy foot. power delivery in turns (with proper suspension, tires and brakes) is extremely predictable and with a scandinavian flick, can institute a perfect tail out action that basically drifts that car into a turn waiting for you to slam the accelerator and pull the car the rest of the way through. the cars track behaviors are spot on, oil temps never rose above 228 after 5 hard laps continuous. Coolant temperatures were around the same but peaked at 240. fuel trims were fine, engine load was met in all gears, never had any problems being stuck between two gears mid tern, the raise RPM redline to 7000 made great use of the cars gearing and always kept the revs in the power band of the car. revs just as quickly as stock if not a little quicker and smoother in all RPM band.

hope that gives a little bit of insight

 

dunphyj - Perfect...yes this really helps

The quote from OC was "The car runs like a freakin' raped ape. It pulls hard from down low and midrange..." and I don't think he has a hybrid turbo. Can't imagine what he would have said about your car!

My take-away from your runs is that the tune works really well, but when you push the Hp in these cars, it starts to take a toll on the other parts. Something to think about when prepping and doing maintainance. For my track abilities, it sounds like I might be happy with the equivalent of your 16 psi tune; not too much but a lot of fun. I also don't have LSD, so getting power down is a little bit of an issue

You mentioned brake issues. A good point with more power. Are you running a stock settup? I found problems with the stock calipers even with a stock S and street tires. I would think that more Hp = more brake problems. I had great race pads that were working really well with the stock rotors until the single piston caliper bent the pads. For me, it is BBK time.

As a side note, sounds like you are running a timed event, not just a HPDE. Is that right? Just curious. There is a group of us who try to get out to a few HPDEs a year and we are always interested in meeting up with other enthusiats. If interested, we can let you know when we are down in the NJ track area.

 

BTY - For anyone who cares, the pure physics equation (F=ma type of thing) gives about 240 wHp for a 0-60 time of 5.2 sec, 2700# car and 165# driver. Now remember this doesn't account for things like wheel spin or areodynamics, so this is a lower bound number. So, not a bad check of the shop dyno.

 

ok i forgot i didn't mention numbers and how i got them or what they were for 16 psi map... i had 221whp and 223 wtq with 16 psi extremely broad toruqe too from 2300 -6300 for the torque hp was practically as broad itself... the 252whp was the 19psi map. all that was done on Helix13's Heartbreaker Mustang Dyno... for reference, we had stage 3 JCWs coming in for an RMW tune day in March of 2010, they were only putting out 230wtq and 215whp on that dyno with similar temperature and weather conditions. so the bump in whp and torque at 19 psi (where the JCWs were getting 21-22psi) really shows the power increase from hybrid... seems that my personal setup doesn't like torque as much as other setups, but i made mine to be more of a linear setup rather than torque monster. so it spools a little later (about 300 rpms) than stock but makes it so there is no torque steer issue, just globs of power :P

as for the brakes, i was completely stock brakes ( i know not a good idea, but i had warrantee to spare :P ) post upgrade was Ferodo DS2500 pads with stock rotors in the rear and same pads for front as well as trying out Hawk HP+ pads for the last day and drive home... HP+ pads were decent as a double duty pad, takes a little bit to heat up on the street normal drivng though so HPS might be better for daily driving or those carbos pads... i don't think i spelled that right..

as for the 02 sensor going bad... i had my high pressure fuel pump go bad a few months back which was covered under warrantee, my turbo wasn't exactly put together perfectly which was the wastegate issue, and after waste gate was fixed i found my stock BPV had failed miserably, quickly replaced with WMW replacement, and now with the upgraded Forge one Way's selling, and the O2 sensor, well my car has 83,599 miles on that O2 sensor (and my car for that matter), i think it's about time it went bad :P i have some upgraded internals on their way (JCW pistons with custom connecting rods and a lighterweight custom crank shaft, and no displacement was not changed i'm staying at 1.6L, i have a friend with a 2.0L stroked R53, and that thing just destroys most cars, but is completely undrivable on the street :P