Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain The Official ALTA AccessPORT Thread

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  #3826  
Old 05-12-2016, 07:43 PM
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Hi all

Relatively new. Ive lurked around but have rarely posted anything.

I just got my accessport in earlier today. Fought with my windows 10 computer for about 6 hrs to no avail. long story short i used a Mac and worked first try. installed it (works for 2012 JCW Coupe if anyone was wondering) Having said that. Does anyone have any cool custom maps they'ed be willing to send my way???

thanks in advance
 
  #3827  
Old 05-12-2016, 11:32 PM
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I have a 2007 MCS with a JCW turbo, a Riss Racing 2.5" catless downpipe, K&N Typhoon intake and the Accessport set on stage 1 with the map for 91 octane with no adds and factory throttle settings. Running Shell 91 Octane I'm still getting some light knocks when under high boost, when its hot. Since I live in Phoenix that's not much I can do. I tried the linear throttle map and it was too on/off for me. Any suggestions to get rid of the knocks? I know for stage 2 your supposed to have a 3" exhaust, but I'm running stage 1. Any help is appreciated.
 
  #3828  
Old 05-12-2016, 11:37 PM
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Do you have 92 octane where you are?

Originally Posted by Sstrickstein
I have a 2007 MCS with a JCW turbo, a Riss Racing 2.5" catless downpipe, K&N Typhoon intake and the Accessport set on stage 1 with the map for 91 octane with no adds and factory throttle settings. Running Shell 91 Octane I'm still getting some light knocks when under high boost, when its hot. Since I live in Phoenix that's not much I can do. I tried the linear throttle map and it was too on/off for me. Any suggestions to get rid of the knocks? I know for stage 2 your supposed to have a 3" exhaust, but I'm running stage 1. Any help is appreciated.
 
  #3829  
Old 05-13-2016, 12:32 PM
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This morning I put a three quarter of a tank of 95 octane mixed in with one quarter tank 91. I turned up the tune to 92 octane stage one stock throttle. So far no knocks except for exactly after I filled up. I'm going to leave this tune in for an Autocross tommorow and the. Set it back to 91 octane.
 
  #3830  
Old 05-18-2016, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbrokenwind

If you bought the AP used, it's possible the previous owner didn't "un-install" the AP and it's looking for the original owners ECU. Can you verify this with the original owner?
It is unmarried. My ECU was updated by a MINI dealership after a new hpfp was installed back in 2014. I'm thinking that is why it is not working since COBB stopped updating the MINI in 2013.
 
  #3831  
Old 05-18-2016, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by neonsteve
You could also try it out on someone else's car just to see if it recognizes it and installs properly. You could then uninstall it from the car (some call this "unmarrying" it) and try installing it on your car. It can only be installed on one car at a time.
I will have to try that. Problem is, I live in Rapid City, SD and there isn't a lot of MINIs around here. I will have to wait until the club MINICOW comes here or when MTTS gets here thus summer.
 
  #3832  
Old 05-18-2016, 05:42 PM
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Was your Accessport married to the ECU when you brought your MINI into the dealer?

That's not a good thing to do!
 
  #3833  
Old 05-19-2016, 05:36 PM
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Today I tried to update my AP on a laptop that I just updated to windows 10. I got an error that said to update the AP on an older version of windows (or an apple). This worked for me, and I just wanted to share this with others.

Before you update to windows 10, make sure that you update your AP (or have an older PC around to update it on).

Have fun,
Mike
 
  #3834  
Old 05-19-2016, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mbwicz
Today I tried to update my AP on a laptop that I just updated to windows 10. I got an error that said to update the AP on an older version of windows (or an apple). This worked for me, and I just wanted to share this with others.

Before you update to windows 10, make sure that you update your AP (or have an older PC around to update it on).

Have fun,
Mike
That's bad news.....I wonder if Windows 10 has some sort of compatibility mode...

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/w...ersion-windows
 
  #3835  
Old 05-19-2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bugeye1031
That's bad news.....I wonder if Windows 10 has some sort of compatibility mode...

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/w...ersion-windows
Originally Posted by chav
okay I read pages 1-20 trying to find related problems they might cause. my car will do one full pull fine and peak at 15 for boost ( shouldn't it be more?) then I will get the code p2885. I have uninstalled the tune and a couple hours after I still got the code. In the morning I have still not been able to get the code doing 10-120 pulls 40-100 anything that could get it back and cant get it to pop up. Feb 10th I have plans to drop her off at mini for a look. if anything I'm getting the heat shield replaced and hood scoop.

also I do have a leak at the downpipe where it connects to the turbo could that be a problem?

I have a 2009 fjcw with cold air intake and catless downpipe
Did you ever find a solution?
 
  #3836  
Old 06-02-2016, 07:00 PM
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P2885 I remember was a diverter valve issue. Mine was sticking. Could be something else but changing my diverter valve fixed it and the 2 other codes that came up.
 
  #3837  
Old 06-02-2016, 07:02 PM
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Anyone here run into super knock on stage 2 or 3 tunes? Even on proper mods. I'm afraid to go anything but stage 1
 
  #3838  
Old 06-03-2016, 12:21 AM
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I've got a JCW turbo, a Riss Racing 2.5" down pipe without cat and a k&n typhoon and I'm getting knocking under acceleration on on ramps to the highway only under slow roll in tuned with the stage one 91 octane tune with no mods and stock throttle. I've to have wondered. But I ran a tank of 95 octane and it went away. It's summer in Arizona so I'm going to go back to a stage zero for now to avoid this. Screw the CEL.
 
  #3839  
Old 06-14-2016, 11:50 AM
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Did you go full throttle at lowish RPM while on tune?
 
  #3840  
Old 06-14-2016, 11:55 AM
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I've been running stage 2 for 3 years now. No issues - and I've driven it all over the RPM spectrum.
 
  #3841  
Old 06-14-2016, 09:47 PM
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I ran a carbon cleaner though the oil and changed it. I also have been running better fuel and the linear throttle setting and 91 stage one tune. I only get knock under top gear heavy load role on like with a sudden snap in the throttle. It goes away with high octane like 95 octane.
 
  #3842  
Old 06-15-2016, 09:25 AM
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The tunes I've had 0 issues with are Stage 1 and Stage 1 FMIC.

I did some internal damage by not having the proper mods while running stage 2 (decatted stock exhaust).

Not sure why I got an issue on Stage 3 (full 3" turbo back with high flow cat in DP) and FMIC. But once I went back to Stage 1 FMIC, no issues other than CEL for O2 sensor.
 
  #3843  
Old 06-16-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Sstrickstein
I've got a JCW turbo, a Riss Racing 2.5" down pipe without cat and a k&n typhoon and I'm getting knocking under acceleration on on ramps to the highway only under slow roll in tuned with the stage one 91 octane tune with no mods and stock throttle. I've to have wondered. But I ran a tank of 95 octane and it went away. It's summer in Arizona so I'm going to go back to a stage zero for now to avoid this. Screw the CEL.
I had the same problem a month ago. The car would knock above 11psi in 3rd or 4th. I was reading up on colder plugs and pulled the trigger on theses https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9815. Manic recommends them for their stage 2. Car pulls hard and hasn't knocked since I put them in.
 
  #3844  
Old 07-12-2016, 10:06 AM
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So perhaps my problem on Stage 3 was just blow by. Installed an oil catch can on Sunday and haven't gotten the hiccup since.

Curious, what peak boost numbers are you seeing? On stage 1 FMIC I saw 18 which I thought was high. Yet on Stage 3 it was 18.8. Felt faster on 3, perhaps a little more top end as peak boost occurs between 3-4K
 
  #3845  
Old 07-12-2016, 08:51 PM
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With my JCW turbo I'm getting 20-21 pounds boost peak. 239 hp on the dyno. Problem was using shitty gas. Started using chevron instead of circle or shell and almost no knocks.
 
  #3846  
Old 07-19-2016, 08:19 AM
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So it's a lot faster on stage 3. More than 0.8PSI of peak boost would imply.

I went back to stage 1 since I was getting code 2885 on stage 3. Likely due to wastegate not performing optimally.
 
  #3847  
Old 07-19-2016, 08:22 AM
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Yeah 2885 seems to always be related to bad waste gate or linkage.
 
  #3848  
Old 07-25-2016, 11:03 AM
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On Wednesday I'm receiving a used Accessport and the manual is not included. After I plug it into my computer and check for firmware updates are these the correct steps to use it:

1) Plug it into my car to identify my ECU since it's a different car
2) Plug it back into my computer to search for maps
3) Plug it back into the car to flash a map

When they say to turn the car on but don't start it, I'm assuming they mean insert the FOB but don't push the start button, turn all accessories off (AC, stereo, etc), flash, remove FOB, remove AP, insert FOB, wait 5s then press the start button?

I'm currently on the lookout for an intercooler otherwise my car is stock (engine wise). From what I've read I should flash stage 1, then stage 1 FMIC when I install one, is that correct?

Thanks!
 

Last edited by spjonez; 07-25-2016 at 11:10 AM.
  #3849  
Old 07-25-2016, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by spjonez
On Wednesday I'm receiving a used Accessport and the manual is not included. After I plug it into my computer and check for firmware updates are these the correct steps to use it:

1) Plug it into my car to identify my ECU since it's a different car
2) Plug it back into my computer to search for maps
3) Plug it back into the car to flash a map
Sounds about right ---

When they say to turn the car on but don't start it, I'm assuming they mean insert the FOB but don't push the start button, turn all accessories off (AC, stereo, etc), flash, remove FOB, remove AP, insert FOB, wait 5s then press the start button?
I get this instruction when resetting the ECU or changing maps. My process is:
1) Insert FOB and press "Start" button, WITHOUT allowing engine to start.
2) Ensure all accessories are off.
3) Proceed with desired task.
AP can be connected either before or after step 1, just gotta allow time for it to recognize the ECU. The AP will prompt you how to proceed when it completes the task.


I'm currently on the lookout for an intercooler otherwise my car is stock (engine wise). From what I've read I should flash stage 1, then stage 1 FMIC when I install one, is that correct?
Each map will display a description of its requirements. You should not use a map unless your car is equipped as the map requires. You should find there are several "Stage 1" maps available. Also a "Stage 0", probably for un-modified cars.

Thanks!
Good luck ---
 
  #3850  
Old 07-25-2016, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbrokenwind
1) Insert FOB and press "Start" button, WITHOUT allowing engine to start.
When I insert the FOB the interior lights come on then when I press the "Start" button the engine starts (2009 Mini Cooper S). How do I press the "Start" button and not have the engine start?

Originally Posted by oldbrokenwind
You should not use a map unless your car is equipped as the map requires. You should find there are several "Stage 1" maps available. Also a "Stage 0", probably for un-modified cars.
I'm going to be very conservative with maps until I have more modifications done. I'm assuming there's a stage 1 map I can use since that's what the screenshot on page 1 of this thread shows on a 2010 Mini Cooper S. I will definitely read the requirements first

Thanks for the help!
 


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