That's weird. I don't notice the fan turn on either when I turn off the engine any more, but then it is winter, so it may be coincidental.

However, I did notice that when I switched back to Stage 1 from Stage 0 this morning just after driving it home (and testing Stage 0), the fan switched on after turning off the ignition (after the reflash), yet it was not on when I first turned off the ignition while still in Stage 0. I remember this distinctly because I was thinking it might have turned on because Stage 1 is more aggressive and it may have assumed since the car was still warm that it was driven aggressively. Sounds confusing I know.

 

I was able to replicate this again. Yesterday I had Stage 1 flash, same commute, no fan on. Today Stage 0 (Stock) and the fan comes on.

What is the issue here? Can someone from ALTA chime in please?

 

There has been some other people that have said the same thing, maybe 30+ pages back. The ALTA tune doesn't change the fan settings, but it seems like it might be somehow affecting it. No one has seemed to have had an issue with overheating, so it doesn't seem to cause a problem with the engine.

 

Same temp outside?

My fan would go on after turning the car off with either Stage 1 or stock maps in the summer. It didn't really seem to matter. And actually one time at the dealer for something unrelated, they called and said they replaced the thermostat or something cause the noticed the fan stayed on longer than they thought it should (yes, i had the stock map flashed for that visit). I really didn't notice any change from that though cause it still went on and stayed on just as long after.

But now in the winter, my engine just goes off with no fan going on anymore.

 

It is probably the winter weather. Though it is 70 here and I ran it very hard I still didn't get the fan to turn on in Stage 1. In fact the only time it turned on was after flashing to Stage 0 while the car engine was off and then turning off the ignition. As soon as I did that it turned on and ran for a while. This is why I thought the AP had something to do with it.

 

Alta, if i buy an accessport from someone and its doesnt have the MINI software, could i send it to you guys and have it programmed for a MINI??

right now the mini ones are rare a find and ive been tryna get my hands on one for a while now ...

 

I think what you're asking if an AccessPORT for a different car (Subaru, Mazda, Mitubishi, etc) can be programmed to run on a MINI. Unfortunatly, the answer is no. The only AccessPORT that can work on the MINI is the MINI AccessPORT. Sorry!

 

that was what i was asking .. thanks anyway

 

I had an issue with the MCSa Stage 1 FMIC map resulting in the car surging and shifting incorrectly under load.

Just wanted to give props to Chris for sorting this out straightaway with a great follow up map.

Thank you Chris!!

 

Since the AP is going away this year, when do you guys recommend we should get/do our last and final update for the AP and AP Manager? I haven't updated mine since October, but I also haven't uninstalled the map since then either. If everything is running smoothly as it is, should I just leave everything alone, or should I make sure to update the AP Manager one last time before the updates end?

 

Richie,

The updates will always be on COBB's server, so you can update it whenever you want. The only thing that I would recommend doing is not letting the dealer update the ECU after December 2013. After that date, we aren't adding any more ECUs to the database, thanks!

 

Ah okay, I didn't know about the COBB server, alright cool. Thanks for the info, I don't plan on having the dealer update the ECU, as my warranty is up this year anyways.

Thanks

 

You aren't going to update the AP anymore ?

 

Cool. You lucked out.
I have Jeff working on maps for mine. So far not so good.

 

I'm afraid to buy an AP now. I might get one that's married to someone elses car and than screwed out of 1k. It's really unfortunate that I can't get a new AP. I live right around the corner from Plano Cobb who actually specializes in tunes for mini.


Sad day.

 

I'm confused as to why you can't buy an AP

 

Don't be afraid!
Make sure whoever you buy one from sends you photos of the "Install" screen and the "AP About - AP Info" screen like below. The pictures below show that the AP is "married" to the vehicle.

You DO NOT want to see that circle with a diagonal line through it. If unmarried it should just say "Install", and NOT "uninstall". The AP Info screen should NOT show that it is installed either. It should say "Uninstalled" under the "Installation State" and NOT give any Vehicle ECU number either. Hope this helps you and anyone else out there buying one used, because I did get burned by the seller and had to send in to Cobb for a reset, costing me about $50 with shipping. But I was lucky that the original owner could supply info to Cobb on his totalled car plus his original receipt from Alta. Otherwise, it is $500 (not $1000). Good luck.

 

Adam or Chris,
I have the AP and I have been saving datalogs for a while. I actually export them into a database that I'm tweaking that database to alert me when the data is too high for a specific field. For example, I can set the database to make the field RED if Boost exceeds 20PSI. I can do the same for any data field.

SO.... Is there any way that you can tell me what some optimum settings are for my 09 Mini Cooper S? What would be considered "bad" for AFR, Boost, Timing, etc.

I'm pretty new to all this so any help would be appreciated.

 

Hi Bcoday,

Unfortunately, it wouldn't be that easy to just have a limit built into that formula, since it all will be based on other numbers. For example, the AFR will be 20 when you're off the throttle, but when you're on the throttle, it'll vary anywhere from 14.7-11 depending on load. For boost, the car will automatically scale it down once it sees that it's too high to get back to the target. If it's way too high, it will cut boost.

Timing will also vary with load, and the MINI doesn't have a specific column for recording knock.

The MINI ECU is good at making changes on the fly, so even if there is a small leak, it can make changes quickly to make the AFR spot on.

If you ever notice anything weird while driving though, you could always try to log a full throttle run and send it over to us.

 

Hey Alta-

What would I need to push me into stage 2 for the AP? Does it have to be a 3" exhaust or if I decide on a 2.5, will that work?

 

Richie,

To run the stage 2 map, you need a 3" turbo back exhaust. Anything smaller you will run a stage 1 map, even if it's a turbo back. Thanks!

 

ok, thanks Chris..

ended up ordering the AR Design 3" catted dp and the Alta exhaust....hopefully everything works out and runs well.

 

Very odd thing happened. I switched my map to the Stage 1 91Oct TPS map (from non-TPS) to do a run for Jeff. But when I started the car right after, the gas guage read 0 (no gas - no orange or red carrot lights lit. Just a red gas light and a big gas symbol in the dash (and sound). When I started it I could see the guage do it's light test thing scanning up and back down, but then staying down - all carrot lights off.

I just filled the tank yesterday- only 8 miles ago. I tried turning off and on the ignition and starting the car a few times but nothing changed. I checked for codes and I had two but only remember the P2727 which is a high pressure pump E error (?). I've already had the Fuel pump changed under the recall. I cleared both, but it didn't help. I then switched maps back to Stage 1 91Oct (non-TPS) like I usually use. The problem still remained!

The car didn't sound funny and I knew I really had plenty of gas so I went to the store. Parked it and went grocery shopping. Got back to the car, started it up and the gauge now read full - all lights orange and no warning! What the heck? Can the AP maps have any affect the fuel sensors or fuel pump?? Never had this problem before. Only 31K mi on car.

 

Pann Auto Performance indicates that they still have Alta Access Ports available for sale

 

Pann is charging $850 + shipping for NOS units. If anyone is interested, I have a perfect condition, gently-used unit for sale at $650. I am located in So. Fla. Contact me at: ChckrdDmn@gmail.com if you're interested...