Drivetrain ***OFFICIAL SIGN-UP THREAD for FLASH TOOL***
Yes, CMCVEAY thats why my car had updated software as well was for a window dipper issue and had a "permananent fix" but it still happens LOL.
The new software and tool update let me upload mine without any problems.
The new software and tool update let me upload mine without any problems.
CRAP!
Just updated my canned tune to the car. Wow for about 5 minutes. Was driving on the highway around 60-65 in 4th stepped on it car boosted /rpms went to around 4k or so and Engine malfunction liight came on and car lost power and reved up and down? Pulled over turned car off. turned car back on and now the Engine light malfunction light is on in full yellow? WTH car runs but manual says to take car in immediately!
What happen? I really hope i didnt break my car
help please
Just updated my canned tune to the car. Wow for about 5 minutes. Was driving on the highway around 60-65 in 4th stepped on it car boosted /rpms went to around 4k or so and Engine malfunction liight came on and car lost power and reved up and down? Pulled over turned car off. turned car back on and now the Engine light malfunction light is on in full yellow? WTH car runs but manual says to take car in immediately!
What happen? I really hope i didnt break my car

help please
Last edited by JAS76; Apr 20, 2010 at 06:41 PM. Reason: pic added
Dont panic, your car is fine. Re flash your original file and then email or call Jan.
Some cars act very weird. it takes time to figure them out.
If you don't already own a tool that can clear the codes, then you need to buy one. Either go to your local auto parts and get a generic OBD2 tool for like 50 or 75 or like I did get a scanguage2 for 150 or so that can also give you a bunch of helpful gauges. If you don't have one go to your local autozone they will lend you one with a deposit and you can clear the code.
Some cars act very weird. it takes time to figure them out.
If you don't already own a tool that can clear the codes, then you need to buy one. Either go to your local auto parts and get a generic OBD2 tool for like 50 or 75 or like I did get a scanguage2 for 150 or so that can also give you a bunch of helpful gauges. If you don't have one go to your local autozone they will lend you one with a deposit and you can clear the code.
Last edited by chakraj; Apr 20, 2010 at 06:56 PM.
I'm very sorry to hear that you've had a problem. I agree with the previous poster to re-flash to stock.
My tune has a very slight hesitation under very hard acceleration but that's about it. It's night and day to drive the car. It went from a quick car to a beast in a matter of minutes (yes, everyone has a different definition of beast!). I'm 100% stock except for the tune right now and I'm wondering if I should even bother installing the Forge FMIC I have in the garage.
Acceleration is just amazing now, and you get even more when you hit the sport button. I'm astounded by the difference only a tune made. One of my previous cars had a V6, cams, bigger air box/intake manifold, full exhaust with headers, no cats...blah, blah, blah and it pulled hard but nothing like this. Granted the mini is F/I but still...
I'm real sorry your having some issues but try going back to stock to see what gives.
My tune has a very slight hesitation under very hard acceleration but that's about it. It's night and day to drive the car. It went from a quick car to a beast in a matter of minutes (yes, everyone has a different definition of beast!). I'm 100% stock except for the tune right now and I'm wondering if I should even bother installing the Forge FMIC I have in the garage.
Acceleration is just amazing now, and you get even more when you hit the sport button. I'm astounded by the difference only a tune made. One of my previous cars had a V6, cams, bigger air box/intake manifold, full exhaust with headers, no cats...blah, blah, blah and it pulled hard but nothing like this. Granted the mini is F/I but still...
I'm real sorry your having some issues but try going back to stock to see what gives.
Last edited by Canuck; Apr 20, 2010 at 07:52 PM.
ok, went out to the garage and remapped to the original tune. Scanned the car and has no codes.
Light is off. Just talked to Jan on the phone and he has sent me a new map to test. Wish me luck. 
Thanks everyone, keep you all posted
Jason
Quick/dumb ? I was also wondering with the Jan tune if it matters on elevation? I currently live in NC, but I am moving to Colorado (over mile high) Does this matter? Should I reconsider on a tune once i get moved?
Light is off. Just talked to Jan on the phone and he has sent me a new map to test. Wish me luck. 
Thanks everyone, keep you all posted
Jason
Quick/dumb ? I was also wondering with the Jan tune if it matters on elevation? I currently live in NC, but I am moving to Colorado (over mile high) Does this matter? Should I reconsider on a tune once i get moved?
Last edited by JAS76; Apr 20, 2010 at 07:32 PM. Reason: ?
Dont panic, your car is fine. Re flash your original file and then email or call Jan.
Some cars act very weird. it takes time to figure them out.
If you don't already own a tool that can clear the codes, then you need to buy one. Either go to your local auto parts and get a generic OBD2 tool for like 50 or 75 or like I did get a scanguage2 for 150 or so that can also give you a bunch of helpful gauges. If you don't have one go to your local autozone they will lend you one with a deposit and you can clear the code.
Some cars act very weird. it takes time to figure them out.
If you don't already own a tool that can clear the codes, then you need to buy one. Either go to your local auto parts and get a generic OBD2 tool for like 50 or 75 or like I did get a scanguage2 for 150 or so that can also give you a bunch of helpful gauges. If you don't have one go to your local autozone they will lend you one with a deposit and you can clear the code.
ok, went out to the garage and remapped to the original tune. Scanned the car and has no codes.
Light is off. Just talked to Jan on the phone and he has sent me a new map to test. Wish me luck. 
Thanks everyone, keep you all posted
Jason
Quick/dumb ? I was also wondering with the Jan tune if it matters on elevation? I currently live in NC, but I am moving to Colorado (over mile high) Does this matter? Should I reconsider on a tune once i get moved?
Light is off. Just talked to Jan on the phone and he has sent me a new map to test. Wish me luck. 
Thanks everyone, keep you all posted
Jason
Quick/dumb ? I was also wondering with the Jan tune if it matters on elevation? I currently live in NC, but I am moving to Colorado (over mile high) Does this matter? Should I reconsider on a tune once i get moved?
I am enjoying my mini. It is just amazing difference driving with it tuned and then going back to stock tune. Life is good when your in the fast lane I'm very sorry to hear that you've had a problem. I agree with the previous poster to re-flash to stock.
My tune has a very slight hesitation under very hard acceleration but that's about it. It's night and day to drive the car. It went from a quick car to a beast in a matter of minutes (yes, everyone has a different definition of beast!). I'm 100% stock except for the tune right now and I'm wondering if I should even bother installing the Forge FMIC I have in the garage.
Acceleration is just amazing now, and you get even more when you hit the sport button. I'm astounded by the difference only a tune made. One of my previous cars had a V6, cams, bigger air box/intake manifold, full exhaust with headers, no cats...blah, blah, blah and it pulled hard but nothing like this. Granted the mini is F/I but still...
I'm real sorry your having some issues but try going back to stock to see what gives.
My tune has a very slight hesitation under very hard acceleration but that's about it. It's night and day to drive the car. It went from a quick car to a beast in a matter of minutes (yes, everyone has a different definition of beast!). I'm 100% stock except for the tune right now and I'm wondering if I should even bother installing the Forge FMIC I have in the garage.
Acceleration is just amazing now, and you get even more when you hit the sport button. I'm astounded by the difference only a tune made. One of my previous cars had a V6, cams, bigger air box/intake manifold, full exhaust with headers, no cats...blah, blah, blah and it pulled hard but nothing like this. Granted the mini is F/I but still...
I'm real sorry your having some issues but try going back to stock to see what gives.
the stock S puts down 160hp on our dyno
I'm thoroughly convinced that you should be cleaning the intake valves every 5-10K miles. We had a R56 on our dyno , customer has cleaned the valves every 5k. It was the smoothest running R56 we have seen. The power curve was magnificent. If you car has hesitations ...........seafoam the car a few times if you have higher mileage. There is a thread another customer just started a few days ago. Hoopty was the poster. He showed the difference of the valves. Car is smooth as glass to drive now.
A note about that light...its generally signifying limp mode and that there is an internal BMW code stored in the DME. Unless the actual CEL light that is in the speedo is illuminated....and normal code reader/scan guage will NOT read this code. Only BMW/MINI can read this, and they can learn a ton of info about what specifically caused it and the exact operating conditions that it happened at.
Even now that the light is gone, the code is probably still stored in there. Although since you reflashed it, it very likely could have been erased.
Got this light when my HPFP failed, but had no other CEL's that I could see on my end. Also had it come on once when the wastegate apparently stayed closed and the car saw LOTS of boost
. Would not have known about either of these issues had I not taken it in........
I've had mine up to 10,000ft and no issues. Personally, I would find a dyno where you are going to be living and send Jan all the data from it and have him do a remote tune for you. I have been told though, that the ECU compensates for the thinner density and increases boost accordingly. (Its how it is on the 135/335i)
Excellent advice and so important in this car...
Even now that the light is gone, the code is probably still stored in there. Although since you reflashed it, it very likely could have been erased.
Got this light when my HPFP failed, but had no other CEL's that I could see on my end. Also had it come on once when the wastegate apparently stayed closed and the car saw LOTS of boost
. Would not have known about either of these issues had I not taken it in........the stock S puts down 160hp on our dyno
I'm thoroughly convinced that you should be cleaning the intake valves every 5-10K miles. We had a R56 on our dyno , customer has cleaned the valves every 5k. It was the smoothest running R56 we have seen. The power curve was magnificent. If you car has hesitations ...........seafoam the car a few times if you have higher mileage. There is a thread another customer just started a few days ago. Hoopty was the poster. He showed the difference of the valves. Car is smooth as glass to drive now.
I'm thoroughly convinced that you should be cleaning the intake valves every 5-10K miles. We had a R56 on our dyno , customer has cleaned the valves every 5k. It was the smoothest running R56 we have seen. The power curve was magnificent. If you car has hesitations ...........seafoam the car a few times if you have higher mileage. There is a thread another customer just started a few days ago. Hoopty was the poster. He showed the difference of the valves. Car is smooth as glass to drive now.
It's such a drastic difference with just a tune that I'm tempted to pony up for an actual dyno run. Problem is the local dyno to me will only run a dyno if they can measure AF which means I'd have to have an bung installed in my down pipe so they can connect their wideband to it. They don't use a tailpipe sniffer.
I bought a product called codekey. It will read and reset CEL's but it was only 35 bucks at Costco. I have had it for about 6 months and had to clear a cel when I had my unichip on. It worked fine. I was at Costco this weekend and they had them marked down to 19.97. It doesnt tell you what the code means in the display, you have to go online to their website to translate, but for 20 bucks you cant beat it.
Got my tool. Updated everything and its ready to go. I'll be purchasing the tune in a couple weeks Jan. I'm looking forward to this.
Quick question. For this initial tune, does Jan ask what mods you have and apply that to get a more aggressive tune? Or is that strictly for a dyno tune?
Thanks -J
Quick question. For this initial tune, does Jan ask what mods you have and apply that to get a more aggressive tune? Or is that strictly for a dyno tune?
Thanks -J
Yeah, pay for my ticket to come to Hawaii and I'll personally deliver one to you.
PM Jan, I'm sure he'll sell you one...
Mark
So I got the new canned tune up from Jan. Car runs great!
Does not pull as hard as the first tune but you all saw what happen. Overall I am very happy with it. I will need to drive it more to get the full effect. 
Has anyone with the canned tune here have a hesitation under full load around 3k-4k? That is the only thing that does not feel right. Any ideas?
-J

Has anyone with the canned tune here have a hesitation under full load around 3k-4k? That is the only thing that does not feel right. Any ideas?
-J
Mine did thi a lot on Jan's first tune he gave me. The second one is much better but is still there a little bit. I'll wait a few days before hitting him up again for a fix to see if it smooths itself out. Seems more prevelant on a somewhat cold engine.
So I got the new canned tune up from Jan. Car runs great!
Does not pull as hard as the first tune but you all saw what happen. Overall I am very happy with it. I will need to drive it more to get the full effect. 
Has anyone with the canned tune here have a hesitation under full load around 3k-4k? That is the only thing that does not feel right. Any ideas?
-J

Has anyone with the canned tune here have a hesitation under full load around 3k-4k? That is the only thing that does not feel right. Any ideas?
-J
So I got the new canned tune up from Jan. Car runs great!
Does not pull as hard as the first tune but you all saw what happen. Overall I am very happy with it. I will need to drive it more to get the full effect. 
Has anyone with the canned tune here have a hesitation under full load around 3k-4k? That is the only thing that does not feel right. Any ideas?
-J

Has anyone with the canned tune here have a hesitation under full load around 3k-4k? That is the only thing that does not feel right. Any ideas?
-J
I have the exact same experience from a custom tune (fedex still has my tool). Accelerating through 3-4K always results this odd hesitation/stall. In automatic mode it's not as bad since it will shift to the next gear. In tiptronic mode it hesitates bad since it can't up shift. Oddly enough in sport modes, the hesitation goes away but then the car doesn't pull as hard as in non-sport mode. I'm going to seafoam the car this weekend and see if it's better.
Dealer is going to flash my car to "fix" some bluetooth ... and this hesitation (they say the computer throws a bunch of codes related to the shift.. which of course my obd reader can't see). Anyways, I'll let them do their thing and see what results.... then put Jan's tune file back when my tool comes in.
I pm'ed Jan about this over the weekend and he said he still had a few spots left. I paid for the tool and tune through his website. Too bad my car won't be here for another month
Awesome, thanks! Still have a few weeks left till my car gets to Hawaii, no worries
I know mines past due for another seafoam treatment, but I want to leave the carbon buildup on there for this upcoming visit to the dealer & let them determine the cause.
I can definitely say w/ the updated tune (over my previous), the torque steer is way up, the exhaust has picked up a more consistent and heartier growl, and the throttle response is nice & sharp.
I get the occasional surging around 3-3500rpm in 2nd gear under mid-throttle/accelerating, but again, need to do the seafoam thing.

next up, get the pop & burble added to my tune
I can definitely say w/ the updated tune (over my previous), the torque steer is way up, the exhaust has picked up a more consistent and heartier growl, and the throttle response is nice & sharp.
I get the occasional surging around 3-3500rpm in 2nd gear under mid-throttle/accelerating, but again, need to do the seafoam thing.
next up, get the pop & burble added to my tune


