I hit 60K in my 04R53 and my throwout bearing is making a little noise. I don’t think the noise is too big a deal and I have not noticed the clutch slipping, yet. A new aftermarket clutch is in my near future. I would like to have a new clutch, flywheel, and all the necessary parts to do the job right installed. I want more pedal feel than an OEM and hopefully a clutch that will last longer than an OEM. I have the following upgrades and this is a daily driver. I look forward to hearing ya’ll and thanks in advance for the input. Happy motoring fellow MINI drivers!
Magnicor Wire Set
Brisk Sparkplugs
Alta Cold Air Intake System
Alta 15% Pulley
Alta Catback exhaust
Alta Intercooler Sprayer Diverter with Sprayer Kit
Alta 22mm rear sway bar with Alta endlinks
Alta rear lower control arms

 

If you are wearing out an OEM clutch that quickly the others will most certainly fail even sooner....maybe try getting some driving lessons ?

 

Forgive him...he is a bit of a joker!!

Sometimes the bearing makes nose long before the clutch goes (some have made the noise since nearly new with a good driver. I can say knowing what you want before you have to buy one is very smart!! I have heard some disturbing things about aftermarket clutch failures lately....makes me wonder if the OEM might be the best.
I'll definitely be watching to see what others say!!

 

+1. I've got 54k on mine and I am starting to get a slight squeal when I take off in first. I'll be waiting for some inputs.

 

I can almost guarantee it's a leaking rear main seal. I had the same problem, and replaced mine along with the new LTW flywheel and FX300, and no more ooooorgh when I first start off at slow speeds. Used to happen after the car sat overnight or for a few hours, and then go away after 5 minutes. The rear main was weeing oil on the flywheel, and the sound was the oil slipping the clutch, and it went away after you started driving because the oil wasn't on there anymore

As for the clutch - break in period ended today on my way home....holy crap. I'll never go stock again, I don't care if I get 10k out of this one. The grab, the smoothness, the quick revving of the 10# flywheel...amazing.

The TOB is crap. Factory, aftermarket - all crap. Someone needs to make an upgraded one. Stupid car rattles like a bag of marbles until I put the clutch in. Whatever - it's intimidating to other cars

 

We've used many Clutchmaster clutch kits. Check them out as an option.

 

Silly question. If I were to get the Clutchmasters stage 2 do I have get a flywheel as well? IS keeping the oem one an option?

 

Almost every stock flywheel that I've seen (I work for a MINI dealer) has been cooked - and resurfacing isn't an option to my knowledge. Purchasing a new stock flywheel or an LTW is pretty much mandatory, otherwise it's gonna trash your new clutch.

 

good to know

 

I have a 04 MCS, at 64K I installed a clutchmaster FX200 with alum flywheel. This clutch grabs very strong and percise, transfering all power and torque to the wheels,however,due to the light flywheel this is a very noisey setup.Chatters in neutral with pedal out, much louder with a/c on,much louder than stock unit.The worst is right in the engine power band,2500-4500rpm,sounds like a bucket of marbles during accel and deaccel.I don't reccomend this for a everyday driver. After 8 months I've had enough,I'm putting a stock unit back in very soon.
Happy Motoring,Jeff

 

That's exactly what happens, after 5 minutes of driving, it goes away. Thanks for the info. What is the cost of labor for a clutch job. I'm not trying to tackle this right now?

 

Mine started doing it at...24k miles. I replaced the rear main at 63k. After beating the bag out of the car You've got time, watch the fluid level and buy approximately 6 cans of brake cleaner for your bell housing when you take it out

Clutch jobs should be under $2k - dealer is $2200/$2700 (higher price includes new stock flywheel). A reputable shop can be trusted - just make sure your car isn't the first one they try their luck on

 

Thanks man!!! I was thinking last night (very dangerous), and a thought popped in my head. Do you think the fact I have a 2% oversized lightweight crank pulley helped to cause the seal to go. I know most of the time they can just go. I'll probably watch the oil level and baby the car for a while but will mostly just run around in my Crapzuki a lot more. Another thing, I want an aftermarket clutch, but it would have to be more reliable than stock. Would you suggest sticking to stock or go aftermarket. In the mean time, I'm going to keep doing some research and also try and find someone who could do this job cheaper than MINI. Who knows, maybe some time will open up in my crappy life and I can try and do the job myself. Thanks again for the info!!!

 

There's no reason to drive your car less and your Crapzuki more. Why have the car if you can't drive it?? I went with a JB Racing flywheel and a Clutchmasters FX300 clutch through lots of recommendations and reviews on here, and I love it. Yes it's loud and grindy on deceleration, hard acceleration, and at idle with the clutch out, but the driveability is SO MUCH BETTER. The car is smoother, faster, and more fun to drive.

As for doing it yourself, I did it in about two days' time, no lift, no air tools, just a laptop with k-huevo's awesome writeup/pics, normal tools, and a lot of patience. I'd be happy to help you do it if you felt like coming up here for a few days...or paying to have me come down It'd be a hell of a lot cheaper than paying someone, and you know what? I feel better knowing I DID IT, every bolt was torqued and checked twice, every seal prepped and carefully replaced, every part and bolt replaced. Little steps that no mechanic would take - they're there to make money not preserve your ride. An air tool will tighten anything, but a torque wrench makes sure it's just right. I'm not saying there aren't mechanics that use a torque wrench, but certainly not on every bolt, every time - it's time consuming.

 

I've decided that pretty soon I'm just going to take leave and change the seal and clutch myself. I'm not looking to pay $2200 right now. You're right, I can take my time and get it done with care. Thanks for the offer on the help. I'm probably going to use the same components as you. Noise doesn't bother me or I wouldn't have such a loud exhaust, s/c scream, and softee tires that roar on the pavement!! So again, thanks for the advice, and sorry to the OP for the thread highjack!! I promise I won't let it happen again!!

 

I purchased this car used. It was a one owner lease vehicle and had approximately 40K miles on it when purchased. I have no idea how the original owner treated the clutch. Are you new to the MINI world smart ***? I sure have read a lot of post concerning MINI clutches being replaced before 60K miles or at least 60K seems to be around when everyone starts looking at having their clutch replaced.

 

[/quote] "As for doing it yourself, I did it in about two days' time, no lift, no air tools, just a laptop with k-huevo's awesome writeup/pics, normal tools, and a lot of patience. I'd be happy to help you do it if you felt like coming up here for a few days...or paying to have me come down It'd be a hell of a lot cheaper than paying someone, and you know what? I feel better knowing I DID IT, every bolt was torqued and checked twice, every seal prepped and carefully replaced, every part and bolt replaced. Little steps that no mechanic would take - they're there to make money not preserve your ride. An air tool will tighten anything, but a torque wrench makes sure it's just right. I'm not saying there aren't mechanics that use a torque wrench, but certainly not on every bolt, every time - it's time consuming." [/quote]

Did you have any problems with the after market throwout bearing fitting? I've heard of people having problems with that. I'm also considering doing the job myself. I can get a good set of tools for less than the price of paying shop to do it and like you said, I can make sure its done right.

 

Thanks Jeff. I could maybe deal with a little extra noise for performance gain but wouldn't like what you described.

 

I have a Clutchmaster with lightened flywheel. I have zero issues with it even with some abuse...

My only complaint is that it's noisy. I'm assuming it's the flywheel but I don't like the "knocky" sound it makes during idle. I've heard from Ian (Maitland Imports) that the OS Giken doesn't make any noise. It's definitely pricey and definitely overkill for a not-super-modified motor but I thought I'd throw it out there.

 

Are you talking about the $1500 clutch? Wow that a lot of money for a clutch, I would definitely say overkill. Does anyone know of any other clutch/flywheel combo that doesn't chatter or make noise?

 

im dealing with the noisy cutch, but ive heard that most any oftermarket clutch + a stock flywheel doesnt have much sound. But its just what ive heard. Id contact an aftermarket parts installer. Like Way from Way Motor Works, or Grassroots garage.