Since I have started making a little bit more power - I am having a hard time (read: Impossible) getting into second gear when coming from first at redline. I have a TSW engine damper already, so not sure what the next step would be.

Cheers

 

Probably not related at all to the damper. Stock clutch? How many miles? Have you had the slave replaced yet? My suspicion would be worn clutch or a slave that is failing. More ominous causes could be a failing syncro.....

 

13,000 Miles stock clutch. It only happens at redline into second. I don't make as much power as you - that's for sure LOL

 

What is your shift style? A gentle guide, or a forced slam?

 

i had the same problem!
i was trying do to do it very fast and i was pulling the **** a little left!
try to pull the **** straight down!

 

Hmmm. Can you slip it in gear at all other times? Maybe just pedal technique. What if you skip-shift to 3rd at WOT from 1st. Can you make that shift???

 

I would highly advise against that as that has the potential to destroy your clutch.....

 

How would going from 1st to 3rd cause any issues with the clutch??


The initial shift isn't slamming, but it is quick and thorough to the correct location. It is almost like it locks me out of the gear.

 

ive been having that probem a bit too now... id like to know, you can force it into second, but it almost seems to have a barrier at the gate, or if it does "go in" the shifter doesn't feel like it is always into gear, so ive never let the clutch out when this happens. mine is happening randomly though, not just in high rpm's, but only 1st to second gear shift. im hoping getting fluids changed will help, btu if now i fuess its time to look into other stuff :(. im at 76k miles though...

 

I had the same issue, exact same thing. You need to change your technique and things will work out. Try to guide it into place not slam it. The issue you are having is unconsciously pulling the shifter back and slighty to the left and on the verge of the reverse area.

 

Thank you Professor - I will work on it. Hard to "practice" on the streets, but it caught me on the way home tonight again.

 

Yea I was pissed for the longest time thinking it was my Mini. It started after I put on the 15% pulley. But over a period of about a week I forced myself to change how I shift.

 

It can bind the torsion dampers inside the flywheel causing it to warp. When you're at redline in first and switch to third, the engine will try to fight the transmission due to the difference in RPM, and guess what the medium is? A change in RPM that drastic can cause damage to springs inside the dual mass flywheel, the same effect can happen on a bigger scale if you have a sprung hub clutch disc. Then again, what do I know right?

 

I just asked a question - since you stated something that I didn't know. No need to roll eyes.

Your explanation is interesting and I've never heard of that.

What happens to vehicles that do not have as close of ratios in their gear boxes as our? The 1-3 shift in a Mini might be the same as something like a 1-2 shift in a Ford mustang.

 

Hate to bring bad news, but balkiness in a fast 1st-2nd shift is often the sign of failing synchros. And they typically fail because folks hurry this shift. Best shifting technique is to apply easy pressure to the 2nd gate and let the synchros do their thing without hurrying them. Speed shifting eventually takes its toll in accelerated gearbox wear.

2nd gear is the usually the one to go first because RPMs are higher and people are more likely at full throttle.

- Mark

 

Clutches are vehicle specific, meaning that each clutch is designed to handle a certain amount of torque. For the Mustang, they use either a 10.5" or 11" disc and a pressure plate with more clamp load. Add those together and it's going to mean higher torque capacity. Of course, the torsion dampers are selected via application to application as well...

 

Thanks ninjlao.
I'm pretty sure the synchros are fine - I do not drive the car aggressively.
I will practice the shift technique and work from there.

 

I am still unclear as to why you think this would destroy the clutch? True, a high gradient difference in engine speed may cause the clutch to slip, especially a stock clutch as this has minimal clamping force, but destroy it?

Now if you are going from WOT to ideal and releasing the clutch it certainly is going to load the flywheel and the clutch significantly, but who does that? Rev matching is clearly a requirement of high speed or high stress shifting and as the revs will be lower in 3rd the specific load will be less, so it isn't as if you need to rev to 7200rpm to load match......curious

 

It also does no good to wait to shift at redline, the proper shift point would be determined by the tq of the engine. And for a MINI that first gear shift point would be about 6500.

See DrO's post about his new shift light. He explains it and even has pic's.