Drivetrain CAI logic
#1
CAI logic
Here's my logic.
The MCS stock intake system is "technically" a cold air intake system in that air is either drawn in to the airbox thru the front grill or thru the small hole in the back bottom of the box which pulls air in from in front of the windshield. No air is drawn in from the engine bay. Now I'll be the first to admit that the stock filter element argues with the definition of what a cold air intake is but the basic elements of a CAI appear to be in place.
Next, seeing as how most CAI systems being offered use the stock ribbed intake hose (other than Alta if you buy their hose, Afe and maybe K&N?) from the airbox to the TB, any advantage of one aftermarket CAI maker vs another may just be a matter of preference of filtering media. Regardless of whether one brand has a box or not or if one comes with or without a lid, almost all must still go thru the same small diameter ribbed intake hose which seems to be somewhat of a bottleneck and hence a constant.
Now if most systems are going thru the same hose, and are all using the same sources for incoming air, you basically have the aftermarket CAI and you have the DIY mod such as what Ignote has previously posted elsewhere. In looking at the DIY versions which all use a cone filter, it appears that the challenge is connecting the cone filter to the box top without constricting the inside diameter of the intake tube. From what I can see with the pics posted, the filtering surface area of the cone filters used in DIY versions closely match that of a drop in replacement filter like what Alta or K&N make.
So my logic is that aside from the bling factor and SC noise enhancement, if you have the same intake tube, and air sources, from purely a performance standpoint, why not just drop in a high flow replacement filter (panel filter) and save yourself $150 to $200 over a aftermarket CAI?
The MCS stock intake system is "technically" a cold air intake system in that air is either drawn in to the airbox thru the front grill or thru the small hole in the back bottom of the box which pulls air in from in front of the windshield. No air is drawn in from the engine bay. Now I'll be the first to admit that the stock filter element argues with the definition of what a cold air intake is but the basic elements of a CAI appear to be in place.
Next, seeing as how most CAI systems being offered use the stock ribbed intake hose (other than Alta if you buy their hose, Afe and maybe K&N?) from the airbox to the TB, any advantage of one aftermarket CAI maker vs another may just be a matter of preference of filtering media. Regardless of whether one brand has a box or not or if one comes with or without a lid, almost all must still go thru the same small diameter ribbed intake hose which seems to be somewhat of a bottleneck and hence a constant.
Now if most systems are going thru the same hose, and are all using the same sources for incoming air, you basically have the aftermarket CAI and you have the DIY mod such as what Ignote has previously posted elsewhere. In looking at the DIY versions which all use a cone filter, it appears that the challenge is connecting the cone filter to the box top without constricting the inside diameter of the intake tube. From what I can see with the pics posted, the filtering surface area of the cone filters used in DIY versions closely match that of a drop in replacement filter like what Alta or K&N make.
So my logic is that aside from the bling factor and SC noise enhancement, if you have the same intake tube, and air sources, from purely a performance standpoint, why not just drop in a high flow replacement filter (panel filter) and save yourself $150 to $200 over a aftermarket CAI?
#2
Well, if you have issues with the ribbed intake tube, you can get an Alta or Samco replacement. Still, when they did the intake shootout, the M7 AGS (which doesn't even use a hose) performed the same as the the Webb or Alta intakes. The main thing about intakes is the larger filter area. I'm not sure what size others use but my Webb RAF has a huge filter that a panel filter just can't match.
#3
Here's my logic.
The MCS stock intake system is "technically" a cold air intake system in that air is either drawn in to the airbox thru the front grill or thru the small hole in the back bottom of the box which pulls air in from in front of the windshield. No air is drawn in from the engine bay. Now I'll be the first to admit that the stock filter element argues with the definition of what a cold air intake is but the basic elements of a CAI appear to be in place.
Next, seeing as how most CAI systems being offered use the stock ribbed intake hose (other than Alta if you buy their hose, Afe and maybe K&N?) from the airbox to the TB, any advantage of one aftermarket CAI maker vs another may just be a matter of preference of filtering media. Regardless of whether one brand has a box or not or if one comes with or without a lid, almost all must still go thru the same small diameter ribbed intake hose which seems to be somewhat of a bottleneck and hence a constant.
Now if most systems are going thru the same hose, and are all using the same sources for incoming air, you basically have the aftermarket CAI and you have the DIY mod such as what Ignote has previously posted elsewhere. In looking at the DIY versions which all use a cone filter, it appears that the challenge is connecting the cone filter to the box top without constricting the inside diameter of the intake tube. From what I can see with the pics posted, the filtering surface area of the cone filters used in DIY versions closely match that of a drop in replacement filter like what Alta or K&N make.
So my logic is that aside from the bling factor and SC noise enhancement, if you have the same intake tube, and air sources, from purely a performance standpoint, why not just drop in a high flow replacement filter (panel filter) and save yourself $150 to $200 over a aftermarket CAI?
The MCS stock intake system is "technically" a cold air intake system in that air is either drawn in to the airbox thru the front grill or thru the small hole in the back bottom of the box which pulls air in from in front of the windshield. No air is drawn in from the engine bay. Now I'll be the first to admit that the stock filter element argues with the definition of what a cold air intake is but the basic elements of a CAI appear to be in place.
Next, seeing as how most CAI systems being offered use the stock ribbed intake hose (other than Alta if you buy their hose, Afe and maybe K&N?) from the airbox to the TB, any advantage of one aftermarket CAI maker vs another may just be a matter of preference of filtering media. Regardless of whether one brand has a box or not or if one comes with or without a lid, almost all must still go thru the same small diameter ribbed intake hose which seems to be somewhat of a bottleneck and hence a constant.
Now if most systems are going thru the same hose, and are all using the same sources for incoming air, you basically have the aftermarket CAI and you have the DIY mod such as what Ignote has previously posted elsewhere. In looking at the DIY versions which all use a cone filter, it appears that the challenge is connecting the cone filter to the box top without constricting the inside diameter of the intake tube. From what I can see with the pics posted, the filtering surface area of the cone filters used in DIY versions closely match that of a drop in replacement filter like what Alta or K&N make.
So my logic is that aside from the bling factor and SC noise enhancement, if you have the same intake tube, and air sources, from purely a performance standpoint, why not just drop in a high flow replacement filter (panel filter) and save yourself $150 to $200 over a aftermarket CAI?
I do know that the amsoil eaa cone filter does have a larger surface area and filters better than gauze cotton.
#4
You're forgeting that most aftermarket CAI's not only draw air from the stock intake tube coming from the front grille, but also from the cowl vent. The cowl vent provides that much more air, which the increased surface area of a cone or cylindrical filter can therefore take more advantage of.
It is this larger amount of air that produces more horsepower and torque.
Many argue as to the true amount of horsepower and torque gained, and more importantly, whether you can actually tell/feel it.
One thing is for sure though, the "implied" horsepower gain is huge, due to the significantly louder and melodic supercharger whine, combined with the sucking sound coming from the cowl vent.
For the enhanced whine alone, the aftermarket CAI is worth the price, at least in the eyes of THIS motorer!
It is this larger amount of air that produces more horsepower and torque.
Many argue as to the true amount of horsepower and torque gained, and more importantly, whether you can actually tell/feel it.
One thing is for sure though, the "implied" horsepower gain is huge, due to the significantly louder and melodic supercharger whine, combined with the sucking sound coming from the cowl vent.
For the enhanced whine alone, the aftermarket CAI is worth the price, at least in the eyes of THIS motorer!
#5
Here's my DIY modification to the stock airbox that uses a panel filter:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ight=honeycomb
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ight=honeycomb
#7
LOL - that's probably true. I likely would have gotten all of the sound and performance of my aftermarket CAI if I had just cut away the top of my stock airbox lid and replaced the panel filter. (That was good enough for my Ducati, anyway).
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#8
#9
I don't think the stock "ribbed" intake hose is ribbed on the inside. Least not on my '03. Also need to consider heat soak. Depending on your use, street, track, ect. heat soaking into the air box/air intake is an issue.For street driving I did a little experiment with a thermometer, I found the air box inside temperature deviated less with the stock box. I can't remember actual numbers but I recall it being eye-opening. Sitting at lights, slow driving, cruising, spirited driving, temps would rise but not as fast with the stock plastic air box. I built a custom stainless steel box with a K&N cone fillter. It worked great, sounded great, but once the heat built up inside the box at a stoplight, it took longer for that heat to dicipate while driving. Now depending on everyones uses, it may be no big deal, but for me the stock air (cai) with a K&N pannel filter works good. However, I am working on a Dinan-esque box of my own using stock materials. Once I finish that I'll do my temp test again.
So what does this all mean? I don't know but I having fun.
So what does this all mean? I don't know but I having fun.
#10
CAI on my car does little to nothing as far as power I'm sure, but it does sound cooler. And, for street use, what's 1-2 more HP going to do for you? I think it may be possible that on long drives, when engine revs may be higher and air flow may be higher, perhaps temps are kept lower in that area anyway. If there is an increased flow potential with a CAI, I think it would be seen en route, not during stop and go driving.
dan
dan
#11
Exactly. I ripped out my airbox and stuck a filter on there, if for no other reason other than the fantastic sound. I plan on buying/building a shield to help the heatsoak which my car does suffer from, but I'm not going end up spending $200+ on it. Not worth it IMO.
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