to begin im guessing this thread goes here... if not sorry about that...

ok soooo i have my 02 MINI... i have the AGS V3 and the M7 strut bar those are the only mods i have on the car. i also installed a boost gauge but i dnt rele consider tthat a mod... my problem is that lately im only gettin about 4lbs of boost, no matter how hard i mash the pedal, how i launch or anything... now i have checked for a boost leak along the couplers at the intercooler, and the fitting on the boost gauge and i have found nothing... i havent changed my plugs in about 15k so im hoping that that will b my solution... just thought id throw it out here for u guys because u tend to know muuuuuuch more than i do... haha... soo if any1 has any solutions that would be beautiful... thanks...

 

What is your vacuum at idle?

 

This sounds like a failed or stuck bypass valve.
Did this occur all of a sudden or over time?

 

Is the car running poorly?

 

its running like s**t quite frankly... the clutch hates me becasue the streets of savannah arent exactly tranny friendly... the vaccumm is normally at about 17-20... but it happened all of a sudden i beleive.. i mean i didnt rele drive it hard for a while cuz i was too focused on using as little gas as possible... then i went to hop on it 1 day n my gauge was reading 5 lb... 5LBS!!!!!

 

btw... 5lbs is at 6200rpms w the throttle to the floor!

 

+1

 

i jus went n checked out the bypass valve... w car on n off... on it sucks n exactly as it shud... am i missing something... ne1 know how to test it??

 

As in Savannah, GA? I graduated from SCAD 2 years ago. I know ALL about those roads.

+3 on the Bypass valve. It'll be difficult, nay, IMPOSSIBLE to tell without taking it off the car.

Most 02's had the yo-yo anyway, so you'll be better off with a new one.

You should probably order a Detroit Tuning one.

 

good deal... but ya im at scad currently... cant beat it good times... u happen to come down at all from time to time... i cant find ne 1 to play w down here... haha... i feel as though every1 who has a MINI in SAV is ummmm "artsy" if u know wat im saying... i think only art school kids understand artsy... some people think they know, but its not until a guy on stilts in the courtyard of ur dorm no longer catches ur eye that u realize that artsy is on a level u never thought possible...

 

HAAHHAHAHA. ROFL.

Everyday I wake up, I miss Savannah, and add another notch to my plan to return one day.

Which dorm you stuck in? Sounds like Turner, maybe Weston?

 

Im down at Roebling Road all the time. we tend to have dinner down by the water. heck i'll be at RRR the weekend after this for a seattime event. come on out if can get the boost fixed.

 

It's pretty tight down there, but you can get a long zip tie and tie the bpv closed by wrapping the tie tight around the lever. You might need to watch it as someone else steps on the gas, just to see what's moving that you need to tie. If you get it tied closed, and the driveability improves - boost comes back - then that's your problem.

It sounds to me like that's probably the problem.

 

good deal thanks alot guys... and yes jymontoya i was in turner... im not out in ardseley park... its amazing down here... jus wish theyd pave the damn place... and El_Griton wherer the hell is Roebling Road? im always hearing about it but i have no idea where the junk the place is...

 

Google Roebling Road.

Whats your major at SCAD?

 

I think 17-20 sounds high but that’s just the gage reads a bit high. Normally see 14.5-15 at idle but that does indicate the engine rings and valves are in good shape.
I really think your bypass valve is stuck in the normally open position bypassing your entire boost back into the intake manifold.
Were you able to tie your bypass valve closed to see if your boost retuned?

If you want to understand how all this works here is a real long thread that explains a lot;
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=20115&page=2

 

My MAP sensor is what done me in, similar issue as yours.... I first replaced my BPV, but didn't improve things. The MAP sensor is easier (and quicker) to replace.

 

That’s the gage reading, MAP sensor has nothing to do with what the gage is seeing.
Best not to throw parts at it and hope.

 

How's the connection on your FPR? I've had the pop off 1 or 2 times which rapes boost.

(assuming that's where you have your boost gauge hooked through)

 

Visual effects... minor in drawing... cant complain nothing but good timers down here... haha... i mean the work load is absurd at times... but its fun none the less...

no i havent... i cant rele get it in there... but im gna take off the I/C n horns try to get a better look

connection there is perfect... ahhh!!!!!!!!

 

HAHA I used to be at Weston house room 154. I graduated 03 from Industrial Design. I had an acr neon when I was living down there and it sucked on the savannah roads, thankfully the mini wasnt as bad.

 

that's the ticket.

But the MAP and T-MAP are more involved in driving the car than you might find. The MAP sensor is used for the drive by wire stuff, and if it's closing the TB because of a bad MAP sensor reading, then there goes your boost.

I vote BPV, as this is so exaclty similar to what so many others have found.

Matt