I am still up in the air as to going on Saturday; I will if I can. Look for S-Driver when you are there. The weather looks like it should be OK, but I would bring an umbrella.

 

Wish I new that tip before. Thanks will do

 

Ok cool Just posting to have it in my feed lol. Way toooooo many pages to read lol.

 

Just read backwards and quit when you get tired
Welcome

 

zre: Stay away from the TCE rear kit on a Gen2 MINI unless you are also willing to replace the e-brake cable with a longer one. (Apparently the kit fits Gen1s much better). Wilwood makes a long e-brake cable, and requires it for their rear brake kit, but it is a big job. TCE claims their kit will work without a new e-brake cable but based on my experience over the past few weeks I question that. I thought I had it working but after a few happy turns I had trouble again. Once I detached the cable from the brakes everything loosened up again but I don't want to drive around with no e-brake.

Bottom Line: After many hours of trying to get the $600 kit to work I put the OEM rotors back on. I have to decide whether to tackle the cable job some day or sell the kit to cut my losses. TCE has been very supportive and responsive but the only answer they have for me is to replace the cable.

Of course, if YOU would like to take a crack at it I will sell you my kit for half what I paid. I may even deliver it to your doorstep. :lol

 

Never heard of Drop links? what is that?

$500 to do what change the outer Tie rods?

 

Do you have picture of what you are referring to? Is it just that the cable is making the pads tight even when the ebrake is not engaged? Or something else. I also had to Mod my trailing arms to make the R56 JCW caliper fit with the R56 ebrakes and SS lines on my R53. Still waiting for the clips for the R56 Ebrake.

This is my Build thread if you are interested. Hopefully i can meet you guys at the track, was hoping i could make it to WGI, but i don't think it will happen.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-turtel-3.html

 

Drop links are the connecting rods between the sway bar and damper or suspension. Adjustable ones allow for pre-set to tune. The outer tie rod ends are rusted to the inner and will not allow for adjustment. They will probably have to be cut off and replaced. Parts are about $250 ( $ 125 ea) with labor. I would do myself but do not have the time.

gkp: Waymotors has a kit to put JCW rotors on rear, was always considering this but other threads indicated that it was not worth it since the fronts do most of the work, but I see TCE point about brake balance and since I had an issue with the balance last time out I thought this might be an option.

 

Never heard them called that before. I know them by endlinks. New word to add to my vocabulary.

Same thing happen when i was refreshing my subframe, but some fire did the trick.

 

The alignment shop tried fire but that did not work, sadly.

 

[QUOTE=HaveATank;4211120]Do you have picture of what you are referring to? Is it just that the cable is making the pads tight even when the ebrake is not engaged? Or something else.

No pix. I took the kit off and went back to the OEM rotors for now. I speculate that one of two things is going on: either the cable is being pulled so tight that the e-brake is being slightly engaged even when the handle is down ... or the pressure from the cable is somehow pulling the brake out of square under certain conditions.

 

[QUOTE=zre;4211173

gkp: and since I had an issue with the balance last time out I thought this might be an option.[/QUOTE]

zre: What did the balance issue feel like? Balance was definitely a concern with going to the front BBK. I'll be at LRP in a few weeks and see how it goes. Then I'll decide what, if anything, to do with the rears.

 

I had an issue into the left hander under braking with the rear end feeling unsettled. It may have been the rear pads EBC Reds, not sure. Did not have issue in threshold braking at Big Bend.

 

My tail end wagging under braking seems to have been cured by my new shocks. Seems that the front shocks may have developed some slop. On the other hand I ran stock brake pads in the rear which are a little less grippy than the XP8s I usually run. Those will go in for WGI in a couple of weeks. Maybe the tail wag is a function of the pads. I'll let you know.

 

Hey, I've signed up for WGI on June 10th & 11th with GVC. Looking forward to it. Any one else interested? I know it is short notice but my guess is there are still openings.

 

So who all is going to LRP tomorrow? I should be there between 9 & 9:30.

 

Will be there by 7:30, outside hill near Big Bend

 

Be there around 8......riding the bike so parking top of hill above B Paddock.

 

Zre, s-driver great to see and hang out with you guys. They were great races! I enjoyed watching them. While waiting for traffic to clear I talked to the owner of the MINI Cooper. Seems like a nice guy. He has three cars; 2 Cooper and VW, I think. He was packing it in so we didn't talk much.

If anyone hears anything about the drivers of the cars that wrecked, let us know.

 

http://sportscar365.com/gt/world-cha...rock-accident/

 

Injury on the torso sounds like the car got hit in the side and hit hard. Wonder if the car got hit in the driver's door and the other car came through and hit the driver's seat.

Head injury for Palmer can't be good. Hope for the best for him.

 

Got the tie-rod ends fixed. Was able to have them broke loose. Did not have to change, saved $400.00. Ordered new endlinks from M7, hopefully will stop noise. If not will have to replace bushings.

 

Glad to hear that you get it fix without a lot of part replacement. What did you do? and did you do the never seize thing?

BTW - Just placed an order with TCE for brake fluid, mind you it is 9 pm and he already has the shipping labels done...Go TCE

 

Brought it to a local shop that has a guy who knows MINIs. He put never seize on but will do your trick when I install new ends links ordered from M7. Which brake fluid did you order?

Still trying to find clunk in rear hopefully the endlinks will solve issue. If not then I may need to replace bushings or upper control arms.

 

I got the Wilwood 570. It is a DOT3 brake fluid with high dry boiling temp.