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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 06:53 PM
  #1876  
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Originally Posted by VehiGAZ
Info here: http://palmermsp.com/

I bought in with a premium/founding membership ($20k initiation + $2500/yr annual) which gets 30+ days access to the track per season, ability to bring a guest driver (some restrictions apply), non-driving guests, access to all of the track facilities (covered garage space, etc), and all prioritized based on member number. Pro instructors are available at $500/day. There is a lower level membership that caps you at 10 days per season (IIRC).

I went last Thursday and brought my cousin as a guest driver (he has an '84 911). It was the first day of the calendar and a mid-week day at that, so there were only 3 other cars that took to the track at all. Basically, we had it to ourselves and worked with an instructor all day long. I calculated that I got in somewhere around 50-60 laps (but I wasn't counting). That's 50+ laps with zero track traffic, totally on our schedule, etc. I loved it and cannot wait to go again!
So this is similar to the LRP club, but more for your money...go you
It is great to be able to go out by yourself and learn.

And it sounds as if you are fully hooked...

Now, it may be difficult to pull yourself away for a few days but I am trying to drum up interest from this group to do WGI the second weekend in June with BMWCCA GVC chapter. Think about it. By the time that rolls around you should have 20 days under your belt and you'll be an expert...
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 03:45 AM
  #1877  
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Found a set of BRZ front seats with air bags and sensors. Thinking of changing my front seats out. These will provide more lateral support and still retain the side air bags. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:23 AM
  #1878  
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Originally Posted by zre
Found a set of BRZ front seats with air bags and sensors. Thinking of changing my front seats out. These will provide more lateral support and still retain the side air bags. Any thoughts?
Lots of bad ones - Seats from different manufacturers are not interchangable, and whatever you might have do to adapt a BRZ seat into a Mini will likely reduce the security and safety of the seat in an accident. The airbag in the BRZ is designed to protect an occupant in a BRZ, not in a Mini. The seat sensor and airbag connectors won't be the same, may not be spliceable, and may not ever work in a Mini.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:40 AM
  #1879  
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Originally Posted by Eddie07S
So this is similar to the LRP club, but more for your money...go you
It is great to be able to go out by yourself and learn.

And it sounds as if you are fully hooked...

Now, it may be difficult to pull yourself away for a few days but I am trying to drum up interest from this group to do WGI the second weekend in June with BMWCCA GVC chapter. Think about it. By the time that rolls around you should have 20 days under your belt and you'll be an expert...
Yes, it's a similar setup to Club Lime Rock but at a fraction of the cost, and a more interesting track IMO anyway. Yes, LRP is the classic "technical track" and it can take years to master Big Bend, but the 4-5 and 11-12-13 combos at PMSP will likely take (me) the same. And there's a lot more track to lap at PMSP too! Time on an empty track seems to be golden - I can focus a lot more on my skills and working out my line - dealing with or reeling in traffic can be added in later. Probably 25-30% of my track time on PCA/CCA DE days has been spent waiting for a point-by, whereas I spent 0% waiting last week. That's the bulk of the value of the membership to me.

I appreciate the WGI invite, but my intention is to focus my time and money (and tires) on running club days at PMSP this year, with maybe one event each with PCA BMW CCA late in the year.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 05:03 AM
  #1880  
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I am trying to find a seat with more support than the sport Mini seats. Have seen the Evo seat conversion. Besides the JCW seats, what would you suggest for seats? There are several racing seats, (Sparco, Bride, etc) but not air bags. Do you have any knowledge of these converisons?

Am trying to get car ready to do the WGI weekend in June. Would very much like to do that weekend.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 05:36 AM
  #1881  
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I can't help you with seat conversions, but I can suggest that you look at Schroth QuickFit 4-point harnesses first. I just bought a used pair here and tried them out on track last week and they offer a HUGE improvement in support and stability - probably the best bang for the buck at $700 for a pair. The install is easy (you'll need a T50 Torx head), and initial adjustment is reasonably quick, and they can be removed almost instantly when your track day is done. They really lock your hips in place which keeps you from sliding around or having to use your legs to keep you in place.

There is much more to be gained from racing seats in terms of giving you more feel for what the chassis is up to but they are not practical for DD use, and you are looking at thousands of dollar$for the seats and associated 5-point harnesses.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 05:40 AM
  #1882  
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Already have the Schroth Pro with my HANS device, really looking to provide greater shoulder/mid section support since side bolsters are too soft.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 06:16 AM
  #1883  
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Originally Posted by Eddie07S
I stayed with the stock rear calipers, that is all you need. A lot of people run the stock pads too. I run the Carbotech XP8s. They will last about 2 years maybe 3, and I leave them in for the summer. I take them out in the fall and put the stock ones in for the winter. The XP8s are fine on the street, no noise but dusty (about the same as the stock ones).

So you taking the dive and getting a BBK for the fronts?
I bought the BBK a month ago and just got around to starting the job yesterday. The first thing I did was take the OEM rear calipers apart and paint them black to match the new fronts. As I was painting I was wondering if I should have just bought new calipers, too. Then I remembered that the Wilwood rears need some modification to the trailing arm. If you had the rears, I was going to ask you exactly what that modification is. I'm going to stick with the OEM rears for now. I can't imagine there would be much of a difference.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 06:32 AM
  #1884  
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Oh you're already way ahead of my limited knowledge then! Sounds like race seats are your next step...
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 06:53 PM
  #1885  
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Originally Posted by VehiGAZ
I can't help you with seat conversions, but I can suggest that you look at Schroth QuickFit 4-point harnesses first. I just bought a used pair here and tried them out on track last week and they offer a HUGE improvement in support and stability - probably the best bang for the buck at $700 for a pair. The install is easy (you'll need a T50 Torx head), and initial adjustment is reasonably quick, and they can be removed almost instantly when your track day is done. They really lock your hips in place which keeps you from sliding around or having to use your legs to keep you in place.

There is much more to be gained from racing seats in terms of giving you more feel for what the chassis is up to but they are not practical for DD use, and you are looking at thousands of dollar$for the seats and associated 5-point harnesses.
Originally Posted by VehiGAZ
Oh you're already way ahead of my limited knowledge then! Sounds like race seats are your next step...
I like your idea of an easily changed out seat. I've seen some nice ones for about $800 each. Anyone know how to disable the air bags when the race seats are in? Or would you just leave them energized?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 03:33 AM
  #1886  
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There are several threads on how to by-pass the air bags by putting a resistor in place. I am hoping to be able to exchange the seats with the air bag working. In speaking with Chris at Sneed Speed he indicates that the air bag only needs a 12 volt signal to fire so I may be able to just create a jumper harness to mate the two plug sets as not to cut and splice. I am also hoping to add heaters. The one issue I have not resolved is the pressure sensor on the passenger seat. Do not wish to cut my seats apart,. I have found a set of BRZ sets complete for $500.00 but am trying to get some more detail on the wiring so I can resolve the interface.
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 01:09 PM
  #1887  
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So I snagged a really good deal on some 15" wheels with some really good Bridgestone RE-71Rs on them (thanks GBuff ). Kosei racing 7" wide with a 40mm ET. Really nice setup and the fit really nicely over the Wilwoods with the 11.75" rotors. Here's how they stack up against my other track wheels:
Got a chance to weigh the 3 sets of wheels that I have for the track:

Kosei K4R w/ Bridgestone RE-71R 205-50x15 Dia 23.1" Tread: 7" total weight 32#
Enkei Racing w/ Dunlop ZIIs 215-45x17 Dia 24.7" Tread 8" total weight 36.5#
Enkei Tuning w/ Toyo R888s 225-45x17 Dia 25" Tread 8.7" total weight 43.5#

First off, the weight of the Kosei is really noticeable, as is the increased wheel to wheel well arch gap... Acceleration is noticeably quicker. The tires are noisy. They grip like a pitbull on a steak bone. Turn-in is sharp and crisp; did not go to their limits.

I also installed my Bilstein B8s Sport shock. Again - Wow! These are fantastic. Firm ride, like the optional sport package shocks that came on the car, BUT, all of the jarring is gone. Even the RFTs are tolerable now. The B8s may be a little bit firmer than the stock shocks but it is hard to tell because, at ~50k miles, the original shocks were shot. And I mean SHOT....

I also acquired a set of TSW springs, but opted to not put them on. I have been on the fence about going to lowering and stiffer springs. With a slight fitment issue with the B8s, that pushed me to the side not installing them. Right now I am happy with the car with the stock sport springs and have been happy with them on the track. Now matched to the B8s, I will probably stay happy...

Looking forward to trying everything out at LRP in a few weeks...
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 06:32 PM
  #1888  
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You make me feel like a slacker. I put on the TCE rear rotor kit this weekend and it was not a pleasant job. I'll do the fronts this week (I hope). Did you put the TCE rear rotor kit on yours? It uses the OEM caliper and a Wilwood rotor.
 

Last edited by gkp; May 1, 2016 at 06:43 PM.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 10:35 AM
  #1889  
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Wheel gap is a real issue! Stamp out wheel gap!
 
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Old May 2, 2016 | 03:08 PM
  #1890  
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Originally Posted by gkp
You make me feel like a slacker. I put on the TCE rear rotor kit this weekend and it was not a pleasant job. I'll do the fronts this week (I hope). Did you put the TCE rear rotor kit on yours? It uses the OEM caliper and a Wilwood rotor.
No I am staying with stock rear everything.
 
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Old May 2, 2016 | 03:12 PM
  #1891  
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Originally Posted by S-Driver
Wheel gap is a real issue! Stamp out wheel gap!


Maybe I can get some wheel well arch extenders

Hey, I think we need to find you another track MINI
 
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Old May 4, 2016 | 07:05 PM
  #1892  
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Originally Posted by Eddie07S


Maybe I can get some wheel well arch extenders

Hey, I think we need to find you another track MINI
I know of one partially built in NE CT!
 
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Old May 5, 2016 | 08:05 PM
  #1893  
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Originally Posted by S-Driver
I know of one partially built in NE CT!
I wonder whose car that is?
 
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Old May 5, 2016 | 08:14 PM
  #1894  
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Just got my wheels this week. Had to sit for the Drivers theory test. And I passed, luckily.
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 04:23 AM
  #1895  
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What did the test entail? Anything weird compared to here?
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 04:29 AM
  #1896  
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Originally Posted by slinger688
Just got my wheels this week. Had to sit for the Drivers theory test. And I passed, luckily.
So it is official - Slinger knows how to drive.
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 04:33 AM
  #1897  
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Originally Posted by S-Driver
I know of one partially built in NE CT!


Any progress?
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 04:44 PM
  #1898  
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Dunno......
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 04:47 PM
  #1899  
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Hmmmmm
How 'bout:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ctory-jcw.html
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 06:57 PM
  #1900  
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Only theory test. No practical. Driving on the other side requires some practice.
 
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