SCDA HPDE Schedule
NASA schedule isn't posted yet, but the cost is $280 for the full day, but you need to become a member, which adds another $45, I think. They offer a time trial at the end of the day, if you want to run in it. I'm off to chase down a dog spay or two...
Ok sounds possible. Will need to work on my boost leak and start up issues. Oh, I also have a coolant leak as well.
I didn't know your car was still acting up. Hope things get sorted out soon. If not, you could always borrow my Justa and crawl around the track.
If I do NASA on the 6th, I can't do WGI a week later.
If I do NASA on the 6th, I can't do WGI a week later.
I need to get my point by hand and finger ready with the justa. Thanks for the offer. Let me try to get the car ready.
Think you'll have more fun at the "Longest Day"...
how are you coming with your brakes? I may need new rotors before too long.
Here is my idea for a brake duct. I wrote it up yesterday but forgot to post it....On the Mini the front bumper tucks in under the front and ends with the air dam. In front of the air dam is a horizontal flat section. The area below the fog lights and just ahead of the air dam should be a good high pressure area given the trapped air in this area. A hole can easily be cut with a hole saw in this flat area. This enters up and into the area behind the fog lights. A brake duct hose can be routed from there to the brakes using the typical route. The hose can be fitted/fixed to the hole in the bumper with some RTV if you can't find a fitting. You want to place the hole in front of the section of the air dam that is the longest. That will be the area with the most pressure. Hope this makes sense. If not, let me know. I have some pictures that might help. Also, if you don't like the way it works, you can glue the plug back in.
Here is my idea for a brake duct. I wrote it up yesterday but forgot to post it....On the Mini the front bumper tucks in under the front and ends with the air dam. In front of the air dam is a horizontal flat section. The area below the fog lights and just ahead of the air dam should be a good high pressure area given the trapped air in this area. A hole can easily be cut with a hole saw in this flat area. This enters up and into the area behind the fog lights. A brake duct hose can be routed from there to the brakes using the typical route. The hose can be fitted/fixed to the hole in the bumper with some RTV if you can't find a fitting. You want to place the hole in front of the section of the air dam that is the longest. That will be the area with the most pressure. Hope this makes sense. If not, let me know. I have some pictures that might help. Also, if you don't like the way it works, you can glue the plug back in.
Look at the naca duct.
See this: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/NACA_duct
It is flush but really sucks air in. One of those space inventions.
I heard that the duct all the way to the rotor can limit the wheel turning movements. Sneed speed shop has ambit for the r53 that can be adapted to the r56. But it is amlittle pricey.
Eddie, are you burning up you brakes already?
See this: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/NACA_duct
It is flush but really sucks air in. One of those space inventions.
I heard that the duct all the way to the rotor can limit the wheel turning movements. Sneed speed shop has ambit for the r53 that can be adapted to the r56. But it is amlittle pricey.
Eddie, are you burning up you brakes already?
Eddie , see this link for some of the front and side naca ducts for racing cars.
racerpartswholesale.com/category/Naca_Ducts2
I have always though of using them for cooling and would like to see what ideas you have. Unfortunately the smallest ones seem to be rather too large for the location you mentioned in your post. So I thought of putting a under belly pan such as the one from forge or moss mini and putting the naca ducts there instead. Something perhaps 2.5 inch ducting. What do you think?
racerpartswholesale.com/category/Naca_Ducts2
I have always though of using them for cooling and would like to see what ideas you have. Unfortunately the smallest ones seem to be rather too large for the location you mentioned in your post. So I thought of putting a under belly pan such as the one from forge or moss mini and putting the naca ducts there instead. Something perhaps 2.5 inch ducting. What do you think?
Last edited by slinger688; May 12, 2011 at 10:16 PM.
Haven't even started yet.... I will most likely mount that second bumper skin I bought (just for this purpose) and use the traditional fog light inlet method. Let you know...
The best spot for trailing braking is big bend at LRP. Can get the back to slide out 1 foot or so twice.
I asked the question because I was looking for something in between the outside and student lines that would work better for a Mini. My instructor and I didn't find anything better the last time out. I suppose everyone with a Mini has been looking for this magic line.
Say, the FSDs are working well for street and track. Nice ride on the street. On the track they are not noticable, but the car doesn't do anything that you don't want it to. At first I didn't thing they were doing anything special, but I now think that because they were not noticable they were actually working really well. As for autocross, I am still thinking about how well they did. I had other problems today (mostly wrong brake pads), but I also noticed some front end dive in the corners. Maybe I am just more observant. Overall, I would recommend them, especially for the street.
Yes, the outside line for me is much smoother and it feels faster, but I don't have a data tracker to back that up. Glad you are happy with the FSD's. I had some issues with the front suspension shuddering at the toe on the inside line, but that disappeared when I made the change. Slinger doesn't quite go as far to the outside as I do, but his car has more power for that uphill.
Looks like I have the dreaded supercharger leak, too. I went to have an RMW tune on Saturday and Jan couldn't figure out why the car was running lean, even after I put in the 380 injectors. Turns out the gasket leak is the issue, so now I have to get that fixed before I can come out and play.








