Purchased dampers from Performance Shock, 29139 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, CA 95476 - 1-800-965-5664, Purchased Voshlag camber plates from Sneed Speed.

What do you run for camber in front and rear?

 

What I have now are fixed plates that add 1.2 degrees to the stock JCW suspension. I'd have to look at my alignment printout to know exactly where that puts me. I think it's about -1.6.

Do you have your alignment specs? Once I get the new suspension on, I have to figure out where I want to start in terms of camber, etc. I was thinking around -2. I'm not willing to sacrifice too much tire wear in order to gain a half-second.

 

Now I have 1.8 negative in front and 1.5 negative in rear. Looking to change to 2.0 negative in rear to help with loose rear. This would be more in line with Eddie07S setup.

 

-2 up front should be good with street tires. If you don't have enough grip to roll the tires over onto the sidewalls then adding more camber than that necessary to keep that from happening may actually be harmful.

At least -2 and up to -2.5 in the rear. A little more in the rear should keep oversteer under control. But this all depends on what mods you have.

 

Here's a video of the Tow Hook Incident. Super slo-mo so you can see it happen. This will definitely be on my track day highlight reel! (If I ever get around to making it).

 

ABS failure on track in the last session of the weekend, this was a brown shorts moment, I did not know what went wrong at the time, but the next straight I checked gauges and the abs warning light was on. The right rear wheel sensor failed. It fixed itself for the drive home and I'm going to change the rears out, anyone else had this happen?

 

Not sure what I am seeing. The video seems a little short.

However there are some reports of intermittent issues with these sensors. I have had some where I think they caused every gage to shut down and every warning light to come on. At least that is what I think was the cause. It did clear itself with no codes.

 

the car pitched sideways at 120 mph, the right rear wheel speed sensor failed and the abs cut brake pressure to that side

I left off the brake as I corrected and then back on the brakes, and I **** my pants, the abs was completely disabled after that and did not work again until my drive home

 

Whooow crap.

Never have had that happen.

But then again, my problem never occurred on the track.

If you don't normally brake to the point of hitting the abs, I believe you can pull the abs fuse and you just have normal brakes. I have a friend with a Gen I MINI who does that when running autocross. I can check to make sure that is what she does, if you want me too.

As for the computer resetting itself, that occurs with three restarts of the engine.

 

Just got a set of Turner wheel studs and nuts for the car. 5 years too late but better late than never. I realized that I might be wearing out the threads in the hubs which would be costly without this change. I also got the LLBean roll-up camp table; perfect fit for the MINI and track days.

 

full vid from my best session, really loving how dialed in the car is now, if it gets loose it's very predictable

 

Looks very good.

What are you using for a data logger and camera? That's not Harry's.

 

Oh, what did you do about the ABS issue?

 

I use a racecapture mk2 canbus logger, it can do analog/digital inputs so I have brake pressure now too. I'm adding a obd2 feed as soon as the cable comes so I can get IAT from there. The app is solostorm it's kinda expensive and focused on autocross but it has a time attack mode for track use.

I tried to use harry's but it locked up after 6-8 minutes and it never split the laps. I'm going to give in one more try with another phone then I'm just giving up on it.

ABS fixed itself on the drive home, I have 2 new sensors for the rear I'm installing this weekend.

 

You are more advance at this data stuff then I am. At any rate your video looks really good, both driving and data display.

Your abs issue sounds like the one that I had, but like I said, it never happened on the track for me. From what I have read, new sensors should fix it. I now wonder if I should do the same thing; replace mine.

I have had good luck with Harry's, but in some respects it is lacking some important data, like brake pressure or even brake on/off. The computer has to be receiving this information otherwise how would it know to change the intensity of the brake lights?

 

brake pressure is not a standard obd2 channel, harry' is adding brake logging/display from what I read on the forum, but I'm not sure how he's going to get the data.

Brake pressure is not on the r53 canbus or kline unless you "ask" for it with inpa or ista, then it broadcasts it on the kline side. I gave up getting it to work and tapped the 5v sensor on the bottom of the master cyl

 

As for the Turner studs I got. They seem like a really well made piece. The bullet nose that they have works really well for threading on the nut without any chance of cross-threading.

A couple of points:
- I got the 55mm. This length is only good for the stock or aftermarket wheel thickness; no spacers. The nut comes right to the end of the thread. This would not be the case if they were threaded all the way to the end, as some studs are. I would suggest the 75mm studs if you plan to use any spacers in the 5 to 10mm range.
- Turner had a really good sale on the nuts, the chrome plated ones. I will let you know how good they are. They seem ok now and they are easy to spot if they go spinning off into the grass.
- The nuts torque up differently and "stick-slip" a on torquing. I hope that goes away as it seems that with that happening the torque may not be equally applied around the wheel.
- No instructions. I did, however, find this which was helpful:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...allation/page2
This pretty well matched with what I estimated for the installation.

 

I wonder if Harry's might be tapping into the signal that controls the taillights. At least that would be 3 points: no brakes, medium and hard. At any rate I will take whatever I can get.

Still you are ahead of me on this...

 

harry's does not interface with can data unless you run data logger hardware like the mk2. I do have the brake light and clutch signal working but I did not find them terribly useful

 

I have studs on both of my cars, the track car had the fronts back out on the very first track day with them, I get my brakes HOT even with ducting the loctite they came with failed, I had to clean them and re-install them with name brand loctite and they have not backed out again. I also over torqued them on the reinstall. I went to like 35 lb/tq.

it could have been very very bad

 

I have my studs Loctite-ed in. Hopefully the studs stay in place.

A week and a half and I am headed to Palmer for two days. My first time there and my first new track in five years. Hopefully I get the instructor I requested. He was great at LRP. I have to believe he'll be equally as good at Palmer. Should be a great time.

 

Sounds like fun. Maybe I'll join you if I can find some videos of people running the track clockwise. Anybody signed up for Lime Rock next Monday, October 9th?

 

I'll be there running tires that are shot and a suspension that is getting soft. Should be interesting! Big rebuild over the winter.

 

Maybe I'll be able to keep up with you, then! Looking forward to seeing you.

 

I see that SCDA has a clockwise run at Palmer coming up. Maybe you should go. I think our event is counterclockwise.

Have fun at LRP.