Yes, it could have been much worse. Imagine if the car behind was an open-cockpit car instead of me. But we do these days at our own risk and s*** does happen.

 

BTW, Gents ... I am interested in coilover/suspension recommendations. My suspension needs to be rebuilt over the winter.

 

I am very happy with my Ohlins Road and Track, provides just enough lowering and damper adjustment can be made on front and rear without removing rear dampers.

 

I remember you saying that. I have Ohlins in the RX7 and they are great. Did you change any other suspension parts at the same time?

 

I also have Voshlag camber plates, MAXX G adjustable links,and adjustable lower control arms on rear. After I added upgraded bushings in front, and have them for the rear but not installed .

 

Anybody thinking about going to LRP on either September 19th or October 9th with SCDA? Regarding suspension mods, I'm happy with my plain vanilla Koni FSDs.

 

I'm signed up for 10/9. I have only one day left in my tires. If that.

 

gkp-what he said
All of it, especially the upgraded bushings for the front control arms. Alta has some bushings that add a bit more caster which is helpful.

 

Veggi - you and I seem to be out of sync this year. Right now it looks like I am taking September off and plan to do the Patroons Palmer event in mid October.

I had two good days at WGI Wednesday and Thursday. Got to be out with the Jagermister 962 Porsche. Wow! And that car gives new meaning to FAST!

The brake balance was greatly improved with the DTC60s in the rear (front as well). There was plenty of heat to make them work, but not too much. The added ducting up front did well with heat control up there. So al in all no brake issues this time.

I did play with tire sizes. I ran both the 205-50x15 RE71Rs and the 225-45x17 Toyo R888s. The RE71Rs were slightly fast, but the taller tires were better suited to that track (less shifting) gearing wise. So it looks like I will be putting a few more miles on the R888s and use them up.

I did run into some areo problems with the crosswinds through the esses and back straight. The wind caused a lot of sway in the back end that was very unnerving. Seems like a splitter and rear diffuser would be a good idea.

 

And, lastly, take a look at this raffle:
https://oldcarraffle.com/2017-mini-c...-cooper-works/

 

Does anyone have experience with MiniHaus of Performance in Westbrook, CT?

 

MiniHaus in Westbrook installed front bushing, would use them for other work except they are so far away from me.

 

Also he rest my ECU for the bigger front brakes while I was there. I would recommend his service.

 

wait wait, he did what now? Reset the ABS module for bigger brakes?

 

Since I changed from the S brakes to Wilwood 6-pot, apparently the ECU has a different setting for when you have JCW front rotors. THe ECU was re-programmed to compensate for this.

 

Interesting!!! I will talk to Art about that.

 

neat, I wonder if the r53 has that setting, I would assume it's adjusting the brake bias

 

This reset has to do with the installation of the Brembo style brakes from the R56 JCW into the R56 S. It has the greatest impact on the eLSD that is part of the 2010 and later DTC systems. The only info on this I have seen applied to the R56 not the r53. My 2007 didn't need it.

 

I had them do the brake reset. I would go to him again (but it would have to be something really important as he is a long, long ways for me...

Unless your abs is kicking in when you don't want it, there is nothing that the brake reset will do for you.

 

that e-lsd even active on the track? I hated it in my r56 and on my 135i a real lsd is soo much better

they have finally figured out how to code all of that crap out of the 135i's it did things like limit engine power after x minutes at x temp to prevent rear brake fade from the elsd

 

With BBKs eLSD is a big problem because of the different piston size in the calipers. The piston area in my Wilwoods and in the JCW Brembos is almost the same, but both are a lot different from the stock S caliper. Without the JCW reset it really over brakes that inside wheel to the point that it is actually dragging. I burned out a set of pads on my right front in 2 sessions at WGI. Then, later I found out about the reset. I was freaking out before that, though. Even with the reset, the eLSD doesn't work well, which is why I have a Quaife. And, no, the eLSD can't be shut off by any of the buttons in the car (it is still active when the DTC is turned off). I had not heard of anyone figuring out how to code that out on the MINI. That would have been nice if they did.

 

Hey,
I have just signed up for 2 days at Palmer on 10/14 and 10/15...
Any one interested in joining up with me? There will be at least 3 MINIs there counting mine... :smile:

 

Not me. One more day is all my MINI has left in it for this year.

 

Track night at Thompson - With the cooling temps tire pressures varied all night. Another new Mini on track with a vintage racer driving - mighty fast. Overall good night, car ran strong, did not push too hard spend most time finding best lines for corners. Need to find proper balance for car since rear did not feel stable. Stiffer/Softer?
Definitely best bang for your buck for track time. Looking to do more Track Nights next year since they run at Thompson, Palmer, Lime Rock?, New Hampshire.

 

Who did you buy your Ohlins from?