Drivetrain Resonator and 2nd Cat Delete - CM4
milltek DP back exhaust vs moding a stock system
the milltek exhaust i installed is 63.5mm (~2.5") from the v-band clamp all the way back to the inlet side of the 100mm (~3.9") tips, eliminating the sub 2" neckdowns completely
it eliminates both the second cat and resonator
the rear muffler looks similar to the stock muffler, but weighs less and you can see straight thru it ... it mounts exactly as the oem muffler
it is a little louder than stock at steady speed, but not enough to make conversation difficult and the tone is lower
at WOT it is quite a bit louder than stock, but still not loud enough to attract negative attention ... it sounds like a proper sports car
the pop/burrble is also louder and more pronounced
as for the performance side, the turbo spools much faster than the stock system ... at 1,800 - 2,000 rpm, flooring the gas, the car leaps forward like it did at 2,800 with the stock system
at any rpm, flooring the gas results in instant power
THERE IS NO DRONE AT ANY STEADY RPM/GEAR COMBINATION
for $1250 (i paid $1200) it is more expensive, but it is more than a cosmetic sound increase, there is a performance gain and i expect that will carry thru when i get a tune also (my tyrol FMIC is enroute as i write this ..
(thanks Hujan for the group buy on the R60 customized tyrol FMIC)
install was very easy, took less than 2 hours, including jacking the car (my first time putting the car on jack stands ... that alone took about 45 cautious minutes)
after the car was on stands, remove the cross braces that run under the exhaust, remove the v-band clamp, remove the 2 nuts on the front exhaust mounts, slide the rubber rear hangers off and remove the stock system in 1 piece
i assembled the milltek on the ground but did not tighten the clamps
hang the rear muffler using the stock rubber hangers, install the nuts back on the front mount but do not tighten yet and finally reinstall the v-band clamp but do not tighten yet
reinstall the cross-braces and tighten them
now jiggle / twist / adjust the system checking for clearance and then tighten the clamps ... i started with the v-band and worked back in stages EDIT last tighten the front mounting nuts
i used a 3/8" rachet to tighten the clamps ... it was not enough, i needed to retighten using a 1/2" ratchet
the system did move the first couple of heat cycles and needed to be retightened / readjusted ... CAUTION ... IT GET VERY HOT ... ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE TIPS!
link to picassa album of the installed milltek system
https://picasaweb.google.com/1043068...eat=directlink
any other question ... feel free to ask
scott
it eliminates both the second cat and resonator
the rear muffler looks similar to the stock muffler, but weighs less and you can see straight thru it ... it mounts exactly as the oem muffler
it is a little louder than stock at steady speed, but not enough to make conversation difficult and the tone is lower
at WOT it is quite a bit louder than stock, but still not loud enough to attract negative attention ... it sounds like a proper sports car
the pop/burrble is also louder and more pronounced
as for the performance side, the turbo spools much faster than the stock system ... at 1,800 - 2,000 rpm, flooring the gas, the car leaps forward like it did at 2,800 with the stock system
at any rpm, flooring the gas results in instant power
THERE IS NO DRONE AT ANY STEADY RPM/GEAR COMBINATION
for $1250 (i paid $1200) it is more expensive, but it is more than a cosmetic sound increase, there is a performance gain and i expect that will carry thru when i get a tune also (my tyrol FMIC is enroute as i write this ..
(thanks Hujan for the group buy on the R60 customized tyrol FMIC)
install was very easy, took less than 2 hours, including jacking the car (my first time putting the car on jack stands ... that alone took about 45 cautious minutes)
after the car was on stands, remove the cross braces that run under the exhaust, remove the v-band clamp, remove the 2 nuts on the front exhaust mounts, slide the rubber rear hangers off and remove the stock system in 1 piece
i assembled the milltek on the ground but did not tighten the clamps
hang the rear muffler using the stock rubber hangers, install the nuts back on the front mount but do not tighten yet and finally reinstall the v-band clamp but do not tighten yet
reinstall the cross-braces and tighten them
now jiggle / twist / adjust the system checking for clearance and then tighten the clamps ... i started with the v-band and worked back in stages EDIT last tighten the front mounting nuts
i used a 3/8" rachet to tighten the clamps ... it was not enough, i needed to retighten using a 1/2" ratchet
the system did move the first couple of heat cycles and needed to be retightened / readjusted ... CAUTION ... IT GET VERY HOT ... ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE TIPS!
link to picassa album of the installed milltek system
https://picasaweb.google.com/1043068...eat=directlink
any other question ... feel free to ask
scott
Last edited by bmwr606; Jun 6, 2013 at 01:16 AM.
Just as an FYI, any increase (perceived or actual) will come from the removal of the 2nd cat.
I'm a huge proponent of ditching the stock system in every way, but on the dyno with heavy tuning in several different situations, the N18 doesn't gain a thing from swapping the downpipe, let alone the factory exhaust, until after 240whp.
On the JCW with the 2.5", there's no restriction until over 300whp.
This is still a sound-centric mod in every way/shape/form. This coming from the guy who has spent thousands on downpipes, exhausts, and prototypes of everything in between. The N18 just doesn't care much until we get it breathing better at the front-end.
I'm a huge proponent of ditching the stock system in every way, but on the dyno with heavy tuning in several different situations, the N18 doesn't gain a thing from swapping the downpipe, let alone the factory exhaust, until after 240whp.
On the JCW with the 2.5", there's no restriction until over 300whp.
This is still a sound-centric mod in every way/shape/form. This coming from the guy who has spent thousands on downpipes, exhausts, and prototypes of everything in between. The N18 just doesn't care much until we get it breathing better at the front-end.
Thanks again.. I am going for a "sound-centric" mod but can't do the rally car sound (as much as I like that) for my daily driver.
The whole 2nd cat removal thing is still an item I need to decide on. I am not sure how the dealer will take that when I need an inspection done in a year.
Leaning on keeping the 2nd cat and installing a magnaflow to replace the muffler and res.
I know I will still have some restriction with the 2nd cat but hope the sound will improve. Your previous All4 sounded good with the cutout ( magnaflow with no muffler). I would think I would get a sound close to that from my proposed setup.
The whole 2nd cat removal thing is still an item I need to decide on. I am not sure how the dealer will take that when I need an inspection done in a year.
Leaning on keeping the 2nd cat and installing a magnaflow to replace the muffler and res.
I know I will still have some restriction with the 2nd cat but hope the sound will improve. Your previous All4 sounded good with the cutout ( magnaflow with no muffler). I would think I would get a sound close to that from my proposed setup.
Yes, if you remember my previous setup with the Akrapovic -> Magnaflow -> dump, that was pretty loud but sounded good.
With the stock cat, stock second cat, and a Magnaflow, you should be set. Just remember that the droning that happens disconnecting the rear muffler is pretty bad past 26-2800.
Keep in mind that you could simply swap the rear muffler for the JCW muffler at a later date - direct fit and keeps the warranty.
With the stock cat, stock second cat, and a Magnaflow, you should be set. Just remember that the droning that happens disconnecting the rear muffler is pretty bad past 26-2800.
Keep in mind that you could simply swap the rear muffler for the JCW muffler at a later date - direct fit and keeps the warranty.
Well here's where that one kind of excelled - for that first prototype, I had the stock muffler still on there. Therefore, not all of the exhaust gasses were passing through the cutout (some still went through the muffler). That was enough to essentially kill most drone.
After moving over from that to a full straight exhaust (only one 5" x 18" resonator, no muffler), 2800-3500 was pretty terrible.
If you have an automatic, you're going to be just fine at cruising when losing the muffler. The auto @ 60 is at 1800-2000rpm. The manual at 60 is at 2800. It was annoying as hell on the manual, but fine on the auto.
Hope that makes sense.
After moving over from that to a full straight exhaust (only one 5" x 18" resonator, no muffler), 2800-3500 was pretty terrible.
If you have an automatic, you're going to be just fine at cruising when losing the muffler. The auto @ 60 is at 1800-2000rpm. The manual at 60 is at 2800. It was annoying as hell on the manual, but fine on the auto.
Hope that makes sense.
I have an R56 it didn't look that bad. If the resonator is straight through, the pipe could be cut back there somewhere and the cat gutted from the back end. Eliminate the restriction and still look stock. Some here are concerned with looking stock.
I have been super stoked on the results of the 2nd cat and resonator delete. I am starting to want a little extra power, so I might have to spring for the NM tune and intercooler soon.
Need... more... POWER!!!
I do drive 30 minutes of 75mph highway everyday on my commute to my job at Ford... Does anybody have any input on what the NM Stage 2 tune does to gas mileage?
Thanks in advance to all the guys who have helped me out so far!
By the way, ditching the run-flats for big fat tires helped a ton with road noise and sticking those tight turns.
Need... more... POWER!!!
I do drive 30 minutes of 75mph highway everyday on my commute to my job at Ford... Does anybody have any input on what the NM Stage 2 tune does to gas mileage?
Thanks in advance to all the guys who have helped me out so far!
By the way, ditching the run-flats for big fat tires helped a ton with road noise and sticking those tight turns.
My experience is this...
I drove my car with the following setup for about 40.000km:
- Stock downpipe
- Removed the central silencer
- Super Sprint exhaust
The after a guy hit my car in the back i changed the exhaust and opted for the JCW.
Without the central silencer the exhaust was great, but for people sitting in the back the drove was kind of heavy... The pop and burble was explosive, rough and powerful...
Now... I had my car tuned and i installed also the Supersprint downpipe BUT... i installed back the central silencer (from Supersprint). I think it's the right combination...
I drove my car with the following setup for about 40.000km:
- Stock downpipe
- Removed the central silencer
- Super Sprint exhaust
The after a guy hit my car in the back i changed the exhaust and opted for the JCW.
Without the central silencer the exhaust was great, but for people sitting in the back the drove was kind of heavy... The pop and burble was explosive, rough and powerful...
Now... I had my car tuned and i installed also the Supersprint downpipe BUT... i installed back the central silencer (from Supersprint). I think it's the right combination...
I finally got around to posting a video of the 2nd Cat and Resonator delete. I tried to drive at several different speeds and conditions to give you an idea of what your car would sound like if you did it. I have put 6,000 miles on my R60 with these mods and have been really happy with it.
I think the next step is a Helix intercooler and NM Stage 2 tune. Keep the comments going on this thread, it has been very helpful for me in my beginning stages of modifying my car and I'm sure it is to others too.
Thanks!
I think the next step is a Helix intercooler and NM Stage 2 tune. Keep the comments going on this thread, it has been very helpful for me in my beginning stages of modifying my car and I'm sure it is to others too.
Thanks!
Last edited by inclinelongboards; Jun 30, 2013 at 07:17 PM.
I finally got around to posting a video of the 2nd Cat and Resonator delete. I tried to drive at several different speeds and conditions to give you an idea of what your car would sound like if you did it. I have put 6,000 miles on my R60 with these mods and have been really happy with it. I think the next step is a Helix intercooler and NM Stage 2 tune. Keep the comments going on this thread, it has been very helpful for me in my beginning stages of modifying my car and I'm sure it is to others too. Thanks! Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fR0B-Ky9vXM
For those who have the NM Stage 2 tune, do you think having the extra power would help to engage the All4 system more often when driving like a maniac?
On the flip side, do you think my 245 BF Goodrich Sports Comp 2s are preventing wheelspin and therefore using the All4 system less?
I have an empty pot next to my DTC that would be perfect for a 50/50 AWD switch haha.
Theta (and others),
Thanks for clearing the mud here over the last 5 pages. Just picked up a new R60S All4 after trading in the wifes R59s. She liked it but really want awd plus a little more space. My son and I LOVED the R59 but it's her car, not our toy. :-(
We got used to the snappiness of the R59 so the R60 didn't really have a chance....same engine, more weight, more driven wheels. BUT, I did want that good exhaust tone back so today out came the 2nd cat and resonator. PERFECT. ZERO droning at any speed and I have excellent hearing. Put her in Sport and the little pop comes back at 2200rpm on decel. The wife is happy, I'm happy!
We do have the K&N stock box filter but I ordered the RU-1540. Can you shed a bit of light on the install? Pix or thread?
Thanks again!
Jim in AK
Thanks for clearing the mud here over the last 5 pages. Just picked up a new R60S All4 after trading in the wifes R59s. She liked it but really want awd plus a little more space. My son and I LOVED the R59 but it's her car, not our toy. :-(
We got used to the snappiness of the R59 so the R60 didn't really have a chance....same engine, more weight, more driven wheels. BUT, I did want that good exhaust tone back so today out came the 2nd cat and resonator. PERFECT. ZERO droning at any speed and I have excellent hearing. Put her in Sport and the little pop comes back at 2200rpm on decel. The wife is happy, I'm happy!
We do have the K&N stock box filter but I ordered the RU-1540. Can you shed a bit of light on the install? Pix or thread?
Thanks again!
Jim in AK
Glad to hear it!
You can use this thread for the air filter instructions. It's really just like any other N18 MINI intake filter change:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-access.html
You can use this thread for the air filter instructions. It's really just like any other N18 MINI intake filter change:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-access.html
Theta (and others),
Thanks for clearing the mud here over the last 5 pages. Just picked up a new R60S All4 after trading in the wifes R59s. She liked it but really want awd plus a little more space. My son and I LOVED the R59 but it's her car, not our toy. :-(
We got used to the snappiness of the R59 so the R60 didn't really have a chance....same engine, more weight, more driven wheels. BUT, I did want that good exhaust tone back so today out came the 2nd cat and resonator. PERFECT. ZERO droning at any speed and I have excellent hearing. Put her in Sport and the little pop comes back at 2200rpm on decel. The wife is happy, I'm happy!
We do have the K&N stock box filter but I ordered the RU-1540. Can you shed a bit of light on the install? Pix or thread?
Thanks again!
Jim in AK
Thanks for clearing the mud here over the last 5 pages. Just picked up a new R60S All4 after trading in the wifes R59s. She liked it but really want awd plus a little more space. My son and I LOVED the R59 but it's her car, not our toy. :-(
We got used to the snappiness of the R59 so the R60 didn't really have a chance....same engine, more weight, more driven wheels. BUT, I did want that good exhaust tone back so today out came the 2nd cat and resonator. PERFECT. ZERO droning at any speed and I have excellent hearing. Put her in Sport and the little pop comes back at 2200rpm on decel. The wife is happy, I'm happy!
We do have the K&N stock box filter but I ordered the RU-1540. Can you shed a bit of light on the install? Pix or thread?
Thanks again!
Jim in AK


You just tear everything out and put the filter on. A bracket might be a good idea if you don't want it to rest on anything hot. Mine is slightly melted in one small spot. It looks like it got pretty dirty after 10,000 miles. I may have to clean it off a little haha.
I jumped on the Burger Tuning JB+ in an effort to preserve my warranty for the last 20,000 miles. After that, I might have to go for the FMIC. The JB+ arrives on Friday. I think the extra boost will be a nice complement to my lightly modded exhaust and air intake.
I can't recommend the RU-1540 air filter and resonator and 2nd cat delete enough. A great improvement in sound and a small bump in performance for about $100. We'll see if the JB+ makes a difference. My best mod still might be my big sticky tires though.
I can't recommend the RU-1540 air filter and resonator and 2nd cat delete enough. A great improvement in sound and a small bump in performance for about $100. We'll see if the JB+ makes a difference. My best mod still might be my big sticky tires though.



