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I bought a 2012 Mini Cooper s countryman last year in September, it was cheap as i dont have too good of a job and still in the 12th grade. Its been a real pain for me. The first two weeks after owning it, i got a light on, and took it too the shop as its under warranty. They tore the engine down and “fixed” it, got it back and it was most defiantly not fixed and took it right back, they held the car for a week and did the same thing. During this period i never got any calls about what’s going on and where they were on the car. After two weeks they said i was good to go. Picked it up and it seemed fine, but three days later the same light but this time with an oil leak. The shop took back the car and said they were going to replace the engine since its under warranty. They told me where they got the engine but i had completely forgot. But the engine they got had 74k miles on it. They put it in and it drove like a dream.
as a side note, and it happens rarely but i can recreate it, when pushing the car hard, when the engine reaches the upper rpm band, the half filled check engine light may appear, like i said, it happens rarely but enough to worry me. along with that there is a piece of interstate road that goes on a steep incline, and when the car goes up the road, the same light will appear
and since im just listing the issues at this point, while driving on the highway for around 20-30 minutes, the same light may appear, but none of these situations are consistent enough and the car doesn’t give me feed back on what’s wrong. Theres no loss of power, control, or even sounds that could indicate what might be wrong.
Two months later i start it up in the morning, and the throttle body positioner sensor went bad, and had it replaced again. Got the car back and it’s been fine. Ive now noticed that there is a rattle noise around the 3k rpm mark both under load and in neutral. Ive read it could be timing chain or a belt tensioner. I got the oil changed not too long ago around 119k miles, and the shop warned me that there was no oil on the dip stick.
Long story short, what would you guys say might be wrong so i dont have to tear down this engine myself. It’s my daily and if i can fix it properly myself ill do it, but if im able to take it to a shop with a good idea of what’s wrong then ill also do that. I absolutely love this car and i hate knowing that there’s something wrong with it, so please, what suggestions and ideas do you have?
Sounds like a perfect opportunity to learn how to work on the car yourself. Before you start tearing into anything, or throwing parts at the car, get yourself a suitable code scanner, like a Foxwell NT530 or the Carly app. You'll be much more successful repairing the car when you have the proper codes.
What does the VIN sticker show for build date? Early 2012 models had a flakey high pressure fuel pump....
Sounds like a perfect opportunity to learn how to work on the car yourself. Before you start tearing into anything, or throwing parts at the car, get yourself a suitable code scanner, like a Foxwell NT530 or the Carly app. You'll be much more successful repairing the car when you have the proper codes.
What does the VIN sticker show for build date? Early 2012 models had a flakey high pressure fuel pump....
Good Advice ^ I use Carly and its about as simple as it gets.
Sounds like a perfect opportunity to learn how to work on the car yourself. Before you start tearing into anything, or throwing parts at the car, get yourself a suitable code scanner, like a Foxwell NT530 or the Carly app. You'll be much more successful repairing the car when you have the proper codes.
What does the VIN sticker show for build date? Early 2012 models had a flakey high pressure fuel pump....
Looks like the 3/2012+ design so you can get the bosch one if you have problems, look under the hood to the rear right on top of the engine near the thermostat housing.
ok, so, doing some messing around, I’ve found that the bolt circled is loose, and doesn’t really tighten down after a few minutes of trying, so i just pushed it down to see if it would help at all. In doing so, Ive found that whatever pipe that it is holding is loose and wiggles around, so my thoughts is that is what might be causing the rattle, any suggestions on what i can do?
That is just a torx screw to secure the intake pipe. It only threads into the soft plastic of the pipe. Its probably stripped. If you can pull it out, get it out, and replace it with a slightly bigger diameter version.
That is just a torx screw to secure the intake pipe. It only threads into the soft plastic of the pipe. Its probably stripped. If you can pull it out, get it out, and replace it with a slightly bigger diameter version.
what is the pipe “intake-ing” and to where? Forgive me for the questions im pretty new to the engine
The air filter box is at the back of the engine. The turbocharger, located at the front of the engine bay under that heat shield, sucks air from the filter box through the connecting tube located on the right side of the engine bay in that picture. The turbocharge then discharges the compressed air down to the intercooler, mounted behind the lower front bumper. After passing through the intercooler, the air is directed to the intake manifold through that plastic tube located on the right side of that picture.
Here are a couple better pictures of the engine outside of the car. You can clearly see the air piping path and intercooler.
The air filter box is at the back of the engine. The turbocharger, located at the front of the engine bay under that heat shield, sucks air from the filter box through the connecting tube located on the right side of the engine bay in that picture. The turbocharge then discharges the compressed air down to the intercooler, mounted behind the lower front bumper. After passing through the intercooler, the air is directed to the intake manifold through that plastic tube located on the right side of that picture.
Here are a couple better pictures of the engine outside of the car. You can clearly see the air piping path and intercooler.
thank you so much, and just so i know the right wording, that pipe in particular is the exhaust piping on the cold side from the inter cooler? And do you happen to know the part number as well?
thank you so much, and just so i know the right wording, that pipe in particular is the exhaust piping on the cold side from the inter cooler? And do you happen to know the part number as well?
The official name for the tube is "Charge Air Line"
Might want to get familiar with that site. RealOEM is an excellent source for finding official part numbers. You can then take those part numbers and search the interwebs for pricing.
Might want to get familiar with that site. RealOEM is an excellent source for finding official part numbers. You can then take those part numbers and search the interwebs for pricing.
I’ve actually been on it for two hours before deciding to post this, all because i was loosing my mind over this rattle. Is that pipe two pieces or one? It’s kinda hard to tell one the site
Use our site for pics. You can see the actual part, sometimes realoem does not show everything exact. You can see that mounted bump in the line were the screw goes.
[QUOTE=ECSTuning;4646703]Use our site for pics. You can see the actual part of sometimes realoem does not show everything exact. You can see that mounted bump in the line were the screw goes.
Do you know if it's metal or rubber that it's screwing into?
Plastic with metal nut insert. So they must have separated. That's the screw and its nota self tap or what they call a cheese head screw that goes into plastics. That tends to be a wide thread.
Plastic with metal nut insert. So they must have separated. That's the screw and its nota self tap or what they call a cheese head screw that goes into plastics. That tends to be a wide thread.
took a look yesterday, and the threads are completely gone on the pipe lol, the screw is fine, it was just bouncing around what was the metal threads. Is there a way for me to replace the threaded nut, or do i just need a whole new pipe?
If cost is an issue, and the rattle is all you're trying to solve - wrap around the frame support and under the pipe with some electrical tape or something like that to keep it from rattling. Maybe a thin piece of foam between the metal support and the pipe for added damping. You'll be McGyver-ing more fixes on these cars over time
If cost is an issue, and the rattle is all you're trying to solve - wrap around the frame support and under the pipe with some electrical tape or something like that to keep it from rattling. Maybe a thin piece of foam between the metal support and the pipe for added damping. You'll be McGyver-ing more fixes on these cars over time
I looked at the pipe last night, i just so happen to find it on ECS, and i dont have that money right now lol, so i went to school and borrowed a role of duct tape, and just taped it together with the bolt still in its slot, incase if it moves, the mounts for the pipe dont break, but hey, NO MORE RATTLE. I can actually enjoy having sport mode without having to hear that rattle at cruising RPMs lol
