Hi all,

first post so be gentle

Does the R60 go into front end service mode, need to change a leaky oil filter housing & cooler gasket alongside the oil return pipes

seen guides for other models but not R60

Cooper S

thanks in advance

 

Hi James,

I have this question too. My oil filter housing gasket is also leaking on my R60, and I'm hoping to replace it myself this weekend.

I have heard that on an R60, the gasket can be accessed by removing the catalytic converter without going into service mode. I'm hoping that the reason I can't find any tutorials on R60 service mode is because it's not often necessary due to the R60's increased clearance over the smaller models.

If you've fixed your leak, did you need to go into service mode to do so?

Thanks for any info you may be able to provide!

 

In general Front End Service mode is a bunch of hoo-haw. If you have a lift and can think outside of the box I can't think of a reason to put it in what people call "front end service mode." I'm pretty sure that term was created so technicians can charge someone more money at the dealer. If you don't have access to a lift I can see it being necessary/easier for certain things.

 

I put my 2013 R60 in front end service mode after struggling with the alternator replacement. I just couldn't get it to squeeze out from under the plastic top support without risking breaking something. Could they have designed it with a two-piece top support to avoid this? Oh, of course! *(insert cussing of this car's engineers, their mothers, and the horses they rode in on)

This is my first MINI, so I can't guarantee the process is identical on others, but essentially the fasteners seem to be in the same places as the R56 videos I watched. Use some patience, label the bits you take off, use a plastic fastener tool, and you should be able to pull off the various bits without too much trouble.
Two helpful hints I found:
1) the wheel arch trim is held on with clips, so a sharp forward (not outward) smack will dislodge it...and you must dislodge it to get at the bolts behind it.
2) you don't have to pull the whole bumper assembly off and use a special tool to hold it in place. If you pull it forward to the end of the mounting bolts, you'll get a few inches of space which is likely all you'll need. Just be careful you don't pull it so far forward it falls off the bolts when you bump it.

Good luck!

 

I have a few pics and some instructions from when I installed my intercooler. I don't think this is full front end service mode, but it's a start.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tion-pics.html

Note: it's been 9.5 years, so don't ask me any clarification questions

 

I actually replaced the alternator on a 2014 Countryman about a month ago without needing to put it in front end service mode. There's enough space to get it out the top without breaking anything if you have some patience. I saw some video where the guy took the A/C compressor out too which was absolutely unnecessary...

 

I wonder if there was a change along the line. I had to use front end service mode for my 2012 r60 justa alternator replacement.

Second time for me, as I first used it to replace a burned exhaust valve. I fabricated the special tools to hold all in place for that head pull. Fun times. Not.

 

Don't think anything's changed that makes it easier, I've done the head/valves/timing on 7 of these from 2008-2014, inlcuding the r56, r58, and r60 and I've never had to put it in front end service mode. You can get the head completely out of the car without doing that.

 

I won’t argue the point. I followed the New TIS procedures, and replacing the exhaust gasket as part of the head removal procedure wasn’t gonna happen without more space up front on my R60. Then some months later the alternator and TTY bolts were not, as much as I tried, coming out without more room up front.

 

Maybe the base model is different from the S or JCW, which I have.
I have lots of patience and have done the starter on mine, which is also a Chinese jigsaw of turning it this way and that to get it down behind the intake. (insert more cussing of engineers' ancestry here)

But the alternator simply didn't have enough clearance space, either round side or flat.
That said, it wasn't a huge deal to do the front end service mode.

BMW lists AC compressor removal as the first step in replacing the alternator, so that's probably where that came from. Could they have put the alternator (easy home mechanic job) and compressor (need an AC recovery machine which very few home mechanics have) in the reverse order so you could take the alternator out of the bottom without removing anything else? Of course! But why do anything to make repairs easier?

 

The base model has more room to move the engine around once the mounts are disconnected, but as I pointed out before it's not that hard to get the alternator out with a bit of thinking on an S or a JCW without "front end service mode." I ended up grinding off a small section of the bottom left alternator bolt to get it back in easier (which doesn't effect how it performs...lol).

 

Pardon if my forum etiquette is off in any way. I'm new here and new to Minis. My wife has a 2012 Mini Countryman S that I'm attempting to get into front service mode so that I can replace the alternator. I feel I've removed every bolt mentioned in this thread, but I can't get the front end to budge an inch. I'm stuck and would appreciate a bit of help.

This is where i am..nowhere really haha

 

I’m in the same predicament. Im trying to address an oil filter housing leak and swap out all the seals and turbo lines while there. I was able to get the oil filter housing out without they bay in service mode, but it may come in handy putting everything back - specially the aux water pump mounting bracket back into the oil filter housing.

I took the number cover off, the two bolts and one Torx from each side of the actual bumper. I have yet to take out the four bolts from the underside that seem to allow the front end forward. I was trying to follow ModMini front end service mode (r56) as a guide, but I’m not seeing anything close to it on the countryman.

I did notice there are two additional bolts that secure the heavy plastic frame to the body panels. Did you remove those?



ModMini guide - I cannot locate those guide holes that are pointed out. Also, I was looking for three bolts and a Torx on each bumper end (only found 2 and the Torx). I did loosen the air ducts forms the wheel cover just in case.

Two bolts and a Torx on drivers side.


From the inside of the car outwards. Seems that if I remove that bolt ( and a couple of other fasteners in the corners) I could take the bumper off, but that still would not help much as it is attached to the underbody that actually slides out. Let me know how you fare out. I would really like to know and get this done.

This is the additional bolt holding the sturdy plastic brackets to the body on each side.

 

See attachment. I saved these pages as a .pdf when I did the alternator. Hope it helps.

Additionally, I saved .pdf versions of several of the other procedures and torque values (some of which I added in bold print to the main attachment) mentioned within this overall "front end service mode" procedure. Let me know if you want them also. Cheers. Paul

PS I found the tools my wife and I fabricated to hold the whole thing together in "service position" basically a necessity. I can't imagine how much damage I would have done had I not used those!

 

I went through this a few months ago when I was working on my turbo. I placed a support under the front bumper steel for support, I just used a stool and a piece of wood. I then undid the bolts and nuts that held the bumper to the body. Once those were removed, I was able to lean the top forward enough to get access.

 

Paul CC - if you would be so kind as to share those PDF’s for additional tasks, I would be very much appreciative.

 

Sure. I will try to put them all in this post. If I miss any, or if there is something NOT needed and I should remove it, let me know. The files are in a bit of a jumble on my drive. Not sure I'm getting all the correct ones. Cheers. Paul

 

Just wanna say thank you for all the input and help on this. I appreciate yall taking time out of your day to help one another.

I'll use all the new knowledge to see if I can get this done now. I'll be back with anything additional I learn.

 

This was the culprit. It never looked like much, but there's a nut on the back of it

... right here... after this were removed on both sides, the front end was free
The job is done! But now I've run into another issue. After getting the car put back together and driving it with no issues for a couple days, today it won't start. After pressing the ignition button, it violently sputters and tries to start, then stops...any ideas?

 

Maybe start a new thread, describing what you did in the alternator replacement, and current codes/symptoms?