Hello all, this is my first post here, but I've visited many times in search of solutions to problems in the past. Last night my check engine light came on after going over the speed bump coming back into my apartment, I didn't check it last night because I wanted to see if the issue would miraculously go away overnight, but it didn't. Checking it this morning after driving to work I discovered that the code thrown is a p0597, thermostat open. Is it reasonable to think that it could be a loose/corroded connection on the thermostat rather than a bad thermostat? Looking online the housing doesn't look too expensive, and I've read that it might be feasible to try to fix it myself, but I'm pretty inexperienced and the guy I trust to work on my car is out of town. My wife's dad is very experienced and would likely be able to help me, but he's four hours away.

If the thermostat is stuck open, that's not the worst problem to have, right? The car would have been at normal running temps after a two hour drive, so if it's stuck now it should be open, at least I'd think. Anyway, I want to get it fixed, and I'd love to do it myself if I can, but it will take driving somewhere pretty far before I can do it myself due to my apartment's policy on working on cars in the parking lot. Would I be safe to drive a while with this code, or is it a more immediate concern?

Thanks in advance, and please let me know if any of my post doesn't make sense. There's a lot of info out there for R55's and R56's but I've only found one thread on this for R60's and it's for an All-4, which mine is not so I'm not sure how well it translates.

 

All 2nd gen minis have the same cooling system design, minor difference in the thermostat housing plugs. Personally, I would clear the code and see if it comes back. if indeed it returns, then you can proceed to replacing it. I did mine over the weekend and it took about 1.5hr normal pace. stuck open is better than stuck close, at least you have circulation and the engine stays cooler. Oh and welcome aboard

 

I guess clearing it wouldn’t hurt to see if it comes back, I’ll give it a shot and report back!

Thanks for the advice and welcome!

 

About how long should I expect to wait until the light comes back on? Just wondering/hoping it isn’t an issue.

 

Usually the system becomes ready in about 70 miles. If there is an issue, a code comes much before that.

 

Excellent, thanks for the advice! I've cleared the code, I guess if it's gonna come back it'll come back on my way home tonight or on the way to work tomorrow.

 

Code hasn't come back, I think I'm in the clear! Thanks again!

 

Would you share any manuals or guides to replacing the thermostat? I have a 2014 R60 and the same fault code, cleared and returned, so I've just received the thermostat housing and now looking to make the swap. I've only come across videos and steps for regular Mini's, not Countrymans. Many thanks in advance!

 

Would you share any manuals or guides to replacing the thermostat? I have a 2014 R60 and the same fault code, cleared and returned, so I've just received the thermostat housing and now looking to make the swap. I've only come across videos and steps for regular Mini's, not Countrymans. Many thanks in advance!

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...er-s-all4-sav/

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...lines/DdM64EOX

 

wow thanks! I did not know about this site, that's great, ty ty for your help!

 

It is very similar to the other models (R56). It is a royal pain in the rear. Some guys have no issues, but its not a fun thing to do by any means.

Taking all the hose clamps off is a nightmare, so invest in whatever tool they make to compress and remove these. Pliers and even angled pliers just are not great to work with.

Its a tight working space as well. Getting the little metal clip off that hold the thermostat to the crossover pipe is not hard to remove, but its THE hardest thing to get back on. I almost took my intake manifold off to do it...just hardly room and no real good place to even look at it except a tiny hole between intake runners. TIE A PIECE OF STRING OR FLOSS TO IT before you go to reinstall. Drop it and its game over. ALSO, grind or snip about 1/8" off one side of it so that it more easily clears the back of the block (or whatever makes that so tight) - I swear the factory must have put these pieces together before installing on the engine or something...

I went though this whole ordeal and got it refilled with coolant, ect,ect and started it up....was leaking like a sieve. (insert all cuss words you know here).

I ended up saying F-it and took it to a shop. It continued to leak after they fixed it (and replaced the water pump as it showed some signs of slight weeping - and consequently the crossover tube because its brittle plastic). After their second install (3rd total) it seems to be ok.

I'm fairly good with cars and bolt-ons - CVs, suspensions, exhaust, routine maintenance / fluid changes, ect. but I'll be damned that thermostat defeated me. Not trying to scare people off of this work, I might have just gotten unlucky with the thermostat seal to the block, but nothing worse than dealing with all that just to have that happen.

 

Wow thank you for sharing, exactly what I was looking for. yeah, no way I'm getting started on that, doesn't sound like it's worth the time and effort at all. Plus great tip on the water pump. Now I know exactly what to look for when I get prices for the work.

Much obliged!! I'll share my experience w/ pricing and before/after.

 

No problem.

I believe the price for them to take my purchased thermostat and try and refit it was around $400 at my local independent shop, which was fair. 4 or so hours.

With the water pump and crossover tube added to purchasing a second thermostat (because they couldnt get my ECS one to work), the total came to around $1175. I think that was 6 hours labor total since it was sort of a package deal at that point. Was somewhere in the ballpark of $500 in parts for all that. I had already also purchased the wiring harness adapter from the dealer for around $50 as well since my car was pre-thermostat update. (early 2013)

If you are getting into it hourly maybe share the tip of clearancing the clip and tying a piece of string to it.. My shop knew. They called it the 'Jesus clip' LOL

 

oh sorry I never saw your reply. thanks again for all the tips. finally getting to it now that summer is almost here and I have some time from the lock down to get to the shop.

much obliged again for all your detailed help!

 

I have done this job and if you get the flexible clamp tool you can take the hoses off easier

 

Link to that tool please?