R60 driving/rally lights
driving/rally lights
I want to install a set of driving lights on my car, although there is no way that I am going to pay for the dealer to do it. (quoted at $1200) I ordered a pair of hella valuefit 7" led lights from amazon, and a set of the mounting brackets from outmotoring. What wiring harness would work for this. I have looked at the kit sold by hella, and there is another kit sold by ECS tuning but I dont know which would work. The ECS kit claims to be a factory wiring harness so I might go with that unless someone has any reason not to.
I'd use the Hella kit.
It took me about 30 minutes all told on an R53. I used factory brackets & had to extend the lamp wires on my older 500-series lamps & add disconnects.
It looks like the newer LED lights & harness are plug&play.
Mine are wired to the high beams, so no need for a dashboard switch.
It took me about 30 minutes all told on an R53. I used factory brackets & had to extend the lamp wires on my older 500-series lamps & add disconnects.
It looks like the newer LED lights & harness are plug&play.
Mine are wired to the high beams, so no need for a dashboard switch.
Id like to add a switch in case I ever need to turn them off. I have a empty spot for a toggle switch in the center console. Do you know anywhere that I could buy a a factory toggle switch to mount there.
It looks like the Hella kit comes with a switch - needs a 1/2" hole in the dash.
If the R60 dash is similar to the R53, the empty switch spots are for front & rear fog lights & programming is needed to activate them. They are not really 'switches', more a computer signaling device to the control module.
I think factory driving lights have a separate switch.
I'd check with ECS - they'll know!
Once you're done, please let us know the real-world, on-the-road results of these new LED lights!
If the R60 dash is similar to the R53, the empty switch spots are for front & rear fog lights & programming is needed to activate them. They are not really 'switches', more a computer signaling device to the control module.
I think factory driving lights have a separate switch.
I'd check with ECS - they'll know!
Once you're done, please let us know the real-world, on-the-road results of these new LED lights!
I'm thinking of using a toggle switch instead of the factory switch. Most likely just putting a hole in the console where the rear fog light switch should be and mounting the switch for the rally lights there.
Good idea. But others have had difficulty finding a switch to match & fit that panel, although it's been done. (Where's Radio Shack when you need them? !).
I'd look at the back of the panel first & see what's involved.
A search on this forum for 'switch panel' might find more.
I'd look at the back of the panel first & see what's involved.
A search on this forum for 'switch panel' might find more.
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This one looks pretty comprehensive, although for a different question.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html
This looks like the future location for the switch, I was unable to open it up and look behind it though. i believe that this is where the rear fog light switch is on the European cars, no clue why the dealer doesn't leave the switch to act as an auxiliary circuit. that would save everyone some time when installing their lights.
It sounds like the hella wiring harness is the way to go, although i dont know how it works as far as plugging into the car. Does it tie into the existing wiring harness for the lights, or does it act as its own harness.
Yes, I'd go with the Hella harness, it looks like it's almost plug&play.
It's independent of the car wiring & switches, so no programming needed.
The only connections are to a 12V source & to the high-beam wire.
I'd add a fuse in the 12V source if one isn't in the Hella harness.
The OEM switch was separate from the switch panel, so you can put it wherever it suits you.
It's independent of the car wiring & switches, so no programming needed.
The only connections are to a 12V source & to the high-beam wire.
I'd add a fuse in the 12V source if one isn't in the Hella harness.
The OEM switch was separate from the switch panel, so you can put it wherever it suits you.
This looks like the future location for the switch, I was unable to open it up and look behind it though. i believe that this is where the rear fog light switch is on the European cars, no clue why the dealer doesn't leave the switch to act as an auxiliary circuit. that would save everyone some time when installing their lights.
as previously mentioned those are not simple toggle switches. They are momentary contact switches on a circuit board connected to the bus and they send signals to the central computer which THEN turns things on and off. There are threads buried (back in GEN1 days) that show how folks opened the switch bank, drilled a hole thru the circuit board and front plate and inserted a similar looking simple toggle switch. They used that switch wired thru a relay ..... danger here if not handy is you can cut a line on the board and screw the whole thing up . . .
as previously mentioned those are not simple toggle switches. They are momentary contact switches on a circuit board connected to the bus and they send signals to the central computer which THEN turns things on and off. There are threads buried (back in GEN1 days) that show how folks opened the switch bank, drilled a hole thru the circuit board and front plate and inserted a similar looking simple toggle switch. They used that switch wired thru a relay ..... danger here if not handy is you can cut a line on the board and screw the whole thing up . . .
You only need one connection to the main beam headlamp wire, but it depends which headlights you have - I don't know the R60 options.
Exact year & model will help. Maybe someone else can find the best place to connect.
Exact year & model will help. Maybe someone else can find the best place to connect.
I have a 2014 r60 s all4, It has the halogen headlights in it. Which are awful, hence the upgrade. I think I can tap into the high beam wires for power, but I dont know what wires to tap to make them turn on with the high beams.
Not quite!
You'll get 12V power to the relay from the battery or the under-hood jumper connection.
The high-beam wire connection is just a trigger for the relay to send 12V to the driving lights.
It's likely the Hella harness will come with a schematic & all will become clear! If not, I can dig one out.
If you have H7 bulbs, you can significantly improve the halogen headlights with Philips bulbs from CandlePower:
https://store.candlepower.com/bfcopotphxtp.html
You'll get 12V power to the relay from the battery or the under-hood jumper connection.
The high-beam wire connection is just a trigger for the relay to send 12V to the driving lights.
It's likely the Hella harness will come with a schematic & all will become clear! If not, I can dig one out.
If you have H7 bulbs, you can significantly improve the halogen headlights with Philips bulbs from CandlePower:
https://store.candlepower.com/bfcopotphxtp.html
could you please send that schematic to me, im trying to get them installed before i leave for college. I currently have the philips crystal vision ultra in them, theyre better than stock but still not as bright as i would like.
ok i found a power source, fl12, supposed to run a headlight option that i dont have. i also found my ground points and battery connection. all thats left is the signal wire from the high beams. i havent been able to find it although i mostly dont know what to look for.
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