1st Gen Countryman (R60) Talk (2010-2015) R60 Countryman Discussions

R60 2011 r60s half power light.

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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 01:59 PM
  #1  
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2011 r60s half power light.

I was driving down the road st about 80km/h (canadian) and my half power light came on.. car didnt shudder or make any odd noises and still isn't making anything odd as of now, it idles smoothly, oil levels seem fine, no odd smells or noise when revving or driving.. what could cause the half power or " limp mode"?? New to the mini scene so I am quite worried it is something major, though I am hoping not.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 02:37 PM
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Don’t freak out just yet. There are any number of things that can cause the limp mode. What you really need to do is get the codes read, that will help point in the right direction
 
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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 03:15 PM
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I am not sure where you are in Nova Scotia, but if you are near Dartmouth you can drop by and I can check the codes for you.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DenisMcG
I am not sure where you are in Nova Scotia, but if you are near Dartmouth you can drop by and I can check the codes for you.
I would have immensely appreciated that, but also, I'm way down in yarmouth haha. Is there a ns Facebook group for mini owners that you know of? Been trying to connect with some locals but all the ones I come across are in their 60s and wont wave back let alone pull in to a spot and chill haha.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 05:46 PM
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No Facebook group that I know of. See if you can find someone to read any codes you may have and post them here. Best of luck.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 06:54 PM
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Wastegate shaft wear is a very common problem with these cars. Usually shows up around 70k miles, search.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2018 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by S-2013
Wastegate shaft wear is a very common problem with these cars. Usually shows up around 70k miles, search.
Several of us have experience in this particular area, unfortunately. On the plus side the 2011 is covered under the warranty extension for the turbo.
Getiing the codes read is really what the first step should be. Even then, if it’s new to you, there may be several stored codes in there and you really can’t always tell which one is the current culprit. Sometimes you need to clear them and then see what comes back. So don’t be discouraged initially. But do yourself a favor and make sure that they have have a scan tool that will read the proprietary BMW software. A good Euro shop that works on BMW/MINI will have one, and lots of them will read your codes for you for no charge. Try that.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2018 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy

Several of us have experience in this particular area, unfortunately. On the plus side the 2011 is covered under the warranty extension for the turbo.
Getiing the codes read is really what the first step should be. Even then, if it’s new to you, there may be several stored codes in there and you really can’t always tell which one is the current culprit. Sometimes you need to clear them and then see what comes back. So don’t be discouraged initially. But do yourself a favor and make sure that they have have a scan tool that will read the proprietary BMW software. A good Euro shop that works on BMW/MINI will have one, and lots of them will read your codes for you for no charge. Try that.
oddly enough, today when I was driving it to work I ended up passing someone on the road and soon as the car downshifts into passing the half power light just went away, I had gone through the cars code reset and it came back that night a couple days ago, but today it went away and the car seems to run smooth as silk again.. my assumption is that arose from the car sitting for a couple months at the dealership without being moved and now with me driving it, it was clearing things out of the system. That is me being hopeful atleast. But I am getting it scanned tomorrow.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2018 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Jester1911
I would have immensely appreciated that, but also, I'm way down in yarmouth haha. Is there a ns Facebook group for mini owners that you know of? Been trying to connect with some locals but all the ones I come across are in their 60s and wont wave back let alone pull in to a spot and chill haha.
We aren't all that bad. I'm in my mid 60's and always wave when I'm passing another MINI. Quite often for me, its the younger people who dont wave back....probably laughing at the old fart trying to be cool again.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2018 | 08:02 PM
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I wave and honk Mikey T.
Its always for me
Get in there!
MINI
Gang Gang
 
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Old Oct 29, 2018 | 09:26 PM
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Glad the limp mode cleared, but that doesn’t mean that there is not a code to still be read. You need to use an OBD2 scanner that will read BMW specific codes. There is a stored code in there now from the event. It may very well happen again soon, and continue to reappear until the underlying issues is resolved.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2018 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy
Glad the limp mode cleared, but that doesn’t mean that there is not a code to still be read. You need to use an OBD2 scanner that will read BMW specific codes. There is a stored code in there now from the event. It may very well happen again soon, and continue to reappear until the underlying issues is resolved.
the code itself ended up being from an auxiliary water pump that helps out the intercooler, there is a recall on it through BMW which is great.. the not so great is that the nearest bmw dealership is a 4 hour drive away from me..
 
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Old Oct 30, 2018 | 01:03 PM
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That’s quite the trek! But worth it for a free replacement. That pump is what pumps coolant through your turbo to cool it, so it is something you need, lol. And free is good! I paid full price for one several months back because I broke the hose nipple off of it, oops! Having them do it at no charge is much better!
 
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy
That’s quite the trek! But worth it for a free replacement. That pump is what pumps coolant through your turbo to cool it, so it is something you need, lol. And free is good! I paid full price for one several months back because I broke the hose nipple off of it, oops! Having them do it at no charge is much better!
oh definitely worth the drive, especially where there is the 10 year warranty on the turbo itself so I'm going to tell em since this has happened I feel like the turbo needs to be replaced as well since it could have run dry and something internal could be warped. So free pump and free turbo for me come the end of November haha, thays if I dont replace the turbo with the borgen Werner jcw one first.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 01:33 PM
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I've been getting instances of intermittent limp half-engine light for a while with my wife's 2013 R60 JCW. It only happens when applying power (giving it gas) or when the car downshifts at highway speed when climbing steeper hills. There is no noticebale drop in power (if there is, I can't feel it when driving). The half-engine limp code light goes away a few minutes after restarting the car. Happens in all kinds of weather (hot, cold, dry, damp). Can go weeks or days without happening then all of sudden... *bing*.

I have a BMW specific code reader and it reads 2C57 Charge-air pressure control, lower value: change-air pressure too low. Appears to be some kind of intermittent boost leak. Bringing the CM to my local MINI specialist so that he pinpoint where the issue is.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Minibeagle
I've been getting instances of intermittent limp half-engine light for a while with my wife's 2013 R60 JCW. It only happens when applying power (giving it gas) or when the car downshifts at highway speed when climbing steeper hills. There is no noticebale drop in power (if there is, I can't feel it when driving). The half-engine limp code light goes away a few minutes after restarting the car. Happens in all kinds of weather (hot, cold, dry, damp). Can go weeks or days without happening then all of sudden... *bing*.

I have a BMW specific code reader and it reads 2C57 Charge-air pressure control, lower value: change-air pressure too low. Appears to be some kind of intermittent boost leak. Bringing the CM to my local MINI specialist so that he pinpoint where the issue is.
I dealt with almost identical symptoms for a while until figuring out what was wrong. Same 2C57 code too. It’s for low charge pressure. Basically the ECU is expecting to see a certain amount of boost under a load like that, and if it doesn’t..... well, you see what it does. I do not want to freak you out, there’s a possibility that it could be a bad diverter or a boost leak, but mine was from the wastegate not fully sealing when closed, so I had to replace my turbo. Whatever it is, it’s likely related to your turbo in some way. I’m not saying your turbo is shot, just that mine was and it is a common issue with these.
Good luck, let us know what you find out.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2018 | 08:35 PM
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Agree with all the above, without scanning it you'll have a hard time figuring out what it is. If it's a internal code you need a scanner that can read BMW/MINI as a normal scanner will show no faults. Otherwise if you have access to ISTA that is the best way to check.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2018 | 08:47 PM
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Yep, also when mine was having it’s turbo issue, the limp mode would be triggered under a load mostly at highway speeds. A slight incline where you need to give it a little bit of gas, but not enough to downshift, or trying to accelerate slightly, and there it went. It got to where I could predict exactly where and when it was going to do it, and would manually downshift just before to avoid it happening. Worth a try for your sanity until you can get it resolved.
Silver lining: If it turns out that the turbo needs replaced, it’s a perfect excuse to upgrade to a bigger one!
Good luck
 
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 06:12 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy
Yep, also when mine was having it’s turbo issue, the limp mode would be triggered under a load mostly at highway speeds. A slight incline where you need to give it a little bit of gas, but not enough to downshift, or trying to accelerate slightly, and there it went. It got to where I could predict exactly where and when it was going to do it, and would manually downshift just before to avoid it happening. Worth a try for your sanity until you can get it resolved.
Silver lining: If it turns out that the turbo needs replaced, it’s a perfect excuse to upgrade to a bigger one!
Good luck
I'd love to go bigger haha, if only I could convince the local dealership my car is a jcw with a badge delete, but they VIN checked me already :( I am currently saving up for a tune, I've been in talks with Mario, and have decided it's my best bang for buck route to go, then a helix stepped intercooler and then probably bigger turbo and call it quits before I turn my family car into track day car haha.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 11:34 AM
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Once you start, it’s hard to stop, lol. Mario is the guy to call! Love my tune from him! The only thing I’d suggest if you are thinking about a tune, is to do your other mods first, especially the turbo if it’s on the list, otherwise you will be looking at needing the tune tweaked for the mods, basically you would have to tune it all over again.
But it’s definitely worth it, the difference after the tune is just awesome
 
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