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I just purchased a Fixer Upper 2005 Mini Cooper S JCW. During my test drive I learned that the alternator was out. That was a fun 2 block drive with my kids in the back. It wasn't too hot...only about 80 F at high noon!
Ran the codes. Appears to need a MAP or TMAP, O2, maybe a bypass valve. In order to run the car though, it needs an alternator and a water pump. Fortunately the battery is newer and bench tested just fine. The previous owner just put on slotted discs and new pads. Why would he put money into brakes if the car doesn't even drive?
Was asking $5200 a couple months ago, and eventually talked him down to $1950 and towed it home. Started the Front End Service Mode last night. Ordered Rock Auto parts last week. They should arrive in the next day or so in addition to the serpentine belt tool.
I am super excited for the car and join the NAM Group!
Bringing Home. Bringing Home Pic 2. Front Driver Side Front Passenger Side Passenger View Right Rear Quarter Panel JCW Exhaust Factory JCW Intake Pulled into the garage. Where I stopped in the garage on Day 1.
Welcome to NAM! I too am curious about your journey in repairing the JCW. The paint looks spectacular for 13 years old! The blue and chrome really pop!
Drained the radiator and pulled it. While doing so I saw what looks like it could be a temperature sensor or something. I don't remember pulling it from anything. Any ideas?
Here's where I got on Day 2. What's This? Located Front Driver Side with my headlight electrical sockets.
That is the outside temperature sensor. You route the wires through the aluminum bumper so that it clips/slips into an area on the inside of the bumper cover. About in the middle from top to bottom and then about 12" to the driver side from center.
That is the outside temperature sensor. You route the wires through the aluminum bumper so that it clips/slips into an area on the inside of the bumper cover. About in the middle from top to bottom and then about 12" to the driver side from center.
Don't go changing a bunch of coded parts, it the alternator, or battery are bad and not making at least 14 volts when running, many codes will pop up, fix the alternator, start it and check voltage, if it is 14.0 to 14.5, clear the codes and retest after a few starts.
05 and 06 are the best years for gen 1. JCW is always a nice addition!!!
Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the NAM family!
Don't go changing a bunch of coded parts, it the alternator, or battery are bad and not making at least 14 volts when running, many codes will pop up, fix the alternator, start it and check voltage, if it is 14.0 to 14.5, clear the codes and retest after a few starts.
05 and 06 are the best years for gen 1. JCW is always a nice addition!!!
Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the NAM family!
Thank you for saying that! That's what I told my wife when I sold my car to buy a non running, potential money pit haha During my test drive, all the dashboard needles stopped moving even though the engine and mph were changing. Freaked me out at first until I started to think it thorough.
Called him a few days later to negotiate on price. I'm hoping to put it back together this week and drive it more than a few blocks.
Wow, nice find. Painted full arches and all. If it had the aero kit that would have been another win. You also have the gray BBS factory dual spoke wheels. Someone spent some money back in the day. Bet it was near 30K.
Wow, nice find. Painted full arches and all. If it had the aero kit that would have been another win. You also have the gray BBS factory dual spoke wheels. Someone spent some money back in the day. Bet it was near 30K.
Has nav correct?
I didn't know that the arches are not normally painted. Looking around, I noticed this has been repainted a lighter shade of blue. A little off from the Deep Blue factory color under the hood. About the Nav...I am not sure as the stereo doesn't work due to a hack job from the previous owner cutting all the wires off from his amp and sub. That was something I forgot to confirm was still in the back when I loaded it on the trailer. I'm sure I will have to ask or research how to get the wiring working. At least the after market stereo used an adapter vs cutting out the factory wiring. I have 4 sets of speaker wire, labeled, laying in the trunk. Fingers crossed that I don't have to re wire the car...
Nice score, and I am on the fence about doing my arches body color everyone here local says don’t do it.... the more I see cars with them painted the more I like them. Good luck on your journey with the rebuild
I always thought the Flex looked a lot like an over-sized MINI. When I first saw the post on my phone I thought it was a MINI pulling an MINI.
I suspect the seller thought it would run long enough for the test drive and that someone would pay the $5,200 asking price with the new brakes assuming everything was perfect.
I always thought the Flex looked a lot like an over-sized MINI. When I first saw the post on my phone I thought it was a MINI pulling an MINI.
I suspect the seller thought it would run long enough for the test drive and that someone would pay the $5,200 asking price with the new brakes assuming everything was perfect.
Thanks! We went from a Highlander and Passat to the Flex and Mini this past year. My wife is not a fan of how either of them look, but I do love the EcoBoost and look forward to driving the Supercharged Mini!
Alternator and Water Pump showed up a few mins ago...can't wait to get home
The bits of metal may be the vibration dampenner may have failed! (the factory one always does fail due to rubber dampening material failure. you will not get a resolution to these codes until this is fixed (if it is bad)
The charging will not work, the supercharger will not work and the water pump, which is driven off the back of the supercharger will not work either. It will throw a ton of codes.
The bits of metal may be the vibration dampenner may have failed! (the factory one always does fail due to rubber dampening material failure.
you will not get a resolution to these codes until this is fixed (if it is bad)
The charging will not work, the supercharger will not work and the water pump, which is driven off the back of the supercharger will not work either. It will throw a ton of codes.
Yep, I'm learning that. Wish I had done my own analysis before I ordered all these parts online. I did find the water outlet flange has been leaking for what appears to be years! Only way to fix that is what I am doing with the front end off.
Since the supercharger is off, I am planning on replacing the water pump, and alternator as planned even though they are both good. 130k on original of both. Any reason why I shouldn't?
Also, I'm planning on throwing all this back together this weekend and cannot get a gasket or a new flange shipped in time. Has anyone had luck using Permatex Water Pump Gasket Maker to permanently seal this?
Huge leak behind the supercharger. Source of leak. Water Outlet Flange.
It looks like the crank position sensor O-ring is leaking and now is the time to replace that! The sensor is held in with a 10mm bolt. It is right under the waterpump on the engine block.
You may have said this earlier, but if you have not serviced the supercharger, do it now! It only takes a small amount of oil, but both ends should be done! There is a lot of info on the site to get this done.
It looks like the crank position sensor O-ring is leaking and now is the time to replace that! The sensor is held in with a 10mm bolt. It is right under the waterpump on the engine block.
You may have said this earlier, but if you have not serviced the supercharger, do it now! It only takes a small amount of oil, but both ends should be done! There is a lot of info on the site to get this done.
Agreed. Since I am in the car this much. I am replacing the following this weekend...
Alternator
Waterpump
Supercharger Service (4.9 oz front and 1.4 oz rear)
Water Outlet Flange Gasket Located behind the water pump (Source of leak)
Crankshaft Position Sensor O-ring (Might be leaking)
Throttle Body Gasket
Replaced a small hose that looked brittle
PRW Crank Pulley / Harmonic Balencer
Crank Seal
Serpentine Belt
Belt Tensioner
Idler Pulley
New Oil Dipstick
Coolant Flush with Zerex G05 premixed
Coolant Expansion Tank - Polished Aluminum & Aluminum Cap
Replacing the Fender Rivets (They weren't there)
Adding hose clamps that were missing
At that point I should be running really well. It will be the first time I have driven the car more than a couple hundred feet. They maybe Monday (Memorial Holiday) I'll do a normal tune up. Filters (Oil, Air, Cabin, Fuel), Oil, Plugs and Wires. It needs tires too. Then it should be good for another 150k miles!
05-22-2018, 08:49 AM
