Got the bolt out. Appears a previous owner tried to use the original bolt to pull the balancer. Then tried to add a spacer to pull against, not realizing he was pulling against itself. During that process he pressed the OEM bolt through the first couple threads. I chased the crank with a 12 x 1.75 tap. Was able to get a longer 100mm bolt threaded 6 full rotations into the crank, but my 3 jaw puller was too small. That is where I ended last night. The qty 3 6mm bolts that thread into the balancer have 2 bolts broken off. Could not grab enough of an edge to walk them out. I will try a larger 5 inch 3 jaw puller today. Fingers crossed!

Got the old jacked up bolt out...don't you love previous incompetent owners?
Got the old jacked up bolt out...don't you love previous incompetent owners?

 

I have had to drill out the three holes larger and tap them to the larger size, put a solid plug in the center and attach a puller to the three bolts. It came out easy after that!

 

I wish someone had told me that on Wednesday. I eventually got it off and replaced it with a PRW balancer. Hopefully can put everything back together tomorrow for my first functioning test drive !

The new one went on so quickly! Boiled it for 15 mins. Then I was able to remove it and replace the forgotten crank seal and re install it again

Only two pieces, but also 3 nights worth of efforts!
Noticed the broken easy out. And the three new 3/8 x16 holes.

 

All. I was able to get her running and cleared the codes. Thank you everyone for all your help! Now I have a whole set of learning to do with my new car!

What do all these dash lights mean and toggles do?
-The Triangle with a circle arrow around it.
-ABS - Means I have a sensor out?
-Tire with an exclamation mark - Traction Control light?
-Circle with 3 dashes on each side.
-Big Button on the left of the oil pressure gauge. Speedometer with a tire tread on the bottom?
-Third toggle from the right. Looks like fogs.

Last but not least. Do you know how to turn on cruise control?

Thanks in advance!


Dash Lights
Dash Lights
Toggles

 

-The Triangle with a circle arrow around it -- DSC / Stability Control
-ABS - Means I have a sensor out? -- May be linked to the DSC light error?
-Tire with an exclamation mark - Traction Control light? -- Low tire pressure / flat tire monitor
-Circle with 3 dashes on each side. -- Brake pad wear sensor / pads need replacing or sensor is faulty
-Big Button on the left of the oil pressure gauge. Speedometer with a tire tread on the bottom? -- dims / brightens dashboard lights / tap to dim and hold to brighten
-Third toggle from the right. Looks like fogs. -- Rear Fog

Last but not least. Do you know how to turn on cruise control? -- No idea, I don't have Cruise.



Here's some more help.
https://www.miniusa.com/content/dam/...All_Models.pdf

 

The Triangle with the circle is the stabilty control, which will not work until you fix the ABS sensor (quite often the front left one), again once you get the ABS sorted the DSC/stability control can be turned one.


The tire with the !, indicates a low tire, but can also be tired to a bad abs sensor failure. Once fixed, turn the ignition on, the press the switch near the handbrake to reset it for three seconds, then start the car and drive it, if the pressures are correct and the abs is working, the tire light should go out!


Brake sensors may be worn out, or broken. there is one on the front drivers side and the passenger rear side.


On the cruise control, you press the right side button on the right of the steering wheel. That turns it on. When you are at the speed you want it at, press the upper button and it should maintain your set speed, you can tweak the speed up or down with the upper and lower buttons. If you apply the barake, or hit the right button, the cruise will shut off. To get back to the speed you had set, press the left button!

 

Thank you MiniTigger & ItsMeWayne! I don't have a manual on got tired of searching images.

The previous owner just installed new pads and slotted rotors. I'll check the abs connection on the front left. And I'm sure he cheaped out and bought the pads without the sensor.

It needs tires as well, so I'll have the tpms checked then.

Didn't know I had rear fogs! That's kind of cool

Thanks about the dash dimmer. I was pushing that button on my whole drive home!

I couldn't find a button on my steering wheel. I might not have cruise control...

 

On the pad on the left front and rear right, there should be sensors that clip onto the pads. These are not the ABS sensors, but purely pad wear sensors.
The ABS sensors go into the hub on the top with a 10mm bolt.
The brake sensors are about $9 to $20 for the pair.
I think the ABS sensoes are around $9 each.
OEM ones will kill your wallet and do no better, I don't care what anyone says. I use them all the time, with no failures thus far!

 

Looks like you got a great "fixer-upper" Yes, it sucks to have to fix and or replace so much but in the end it will be worth it.

When you get a handle on your current list, double check your Strut Mounts this is a bad one: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...416_015453.jpg

and also double check your engine mounts (oil leaking from them is a sure sign of them being perished) and your suspension bushings (front and rear), these are the most likely things to have worn out with the age and miles of your car.

And if anyone hasn't mentioned it, if your crank pulley was torn up that bad, that is a leading cause for no/low alternator and water pump function and will greatly diminish the performance of the Supercharger.

Welcome to NAM and best of luck with your build.

Motor On!

 

Thank you for the pointers! I'll check the Strut Mounts later today. I am making progress on my current list. Yesterday I was rewiring the the stereo and had to lift the rear seat to find out the PO cut the speaker wires and spliced in standard A/V wire somewhere. I'm currently only getting the tweeters in the front doors. This might have had the HK Stereo and the wires might have terminated under the seat...

I realize now that my alternator and water pump were probably fine, but since I already had it torn apart I replaced them and did a supercharger service as well. Good thing I did because the water pump flange into the block had been leaking for a long time!

Planning on doing suspension bushings after I get new tires and fix the ABS & Worn Brake dash lights. I did get a p2096 (Will use this tutorial and might buy the GT1 software online to reset the hard code as indicated here) & P1237 codes yesterday. When I change the oil today, I will get the whole car up and check for obvious leaks in the exhaust before I start replacing sensors. Anyone know if the GT1 Software can tell me which ABS Sensor is not working?

Originally bought with the intent to flip it but by the time this car is back together correctly, I'll have spent more than I thought and will know every piece of the car! It sure is a hoot to drive!

 

Did my oil change on Saturday...that was a treat. Called every auto parts store in town for a shallow 36 mm socket. How do you change your oil filter without leaking all over?

JABowders-Thanks for having me look at my strut mounts. They need some work. Appears I will be fixing these.

Passenger Side Strut Mount
Driver Side Strut Mount

 

Oil Change... Pig Mats ... cram them in under the filter cover.

A few extra dollars spent on these will save you lots of time doing clean up after the fact.

Glad you caught the Strut Mounts, swapping them out is a great time to do your Suspension bushing at the same time.

You are doing a great job so far...

Motor On!

 

Thanks. Glad I am not the only one who spilled all down the block while changing his oil!

Today (and the next 2 days) I am receiving a few packages to hopefully tidy up some loose ends. The ebay oil dipstick I bought broke on the first pull out. Got that returned but can't stomach a $70 Cravenspeed one, so I am trying out the metal shaft Dorman 917-315 replacement.

My GT1 (INPA) software arrives today! Going to clear my hard P2096 & P1237 codes. Pretty sure I'll need an O2 Sensor though. Also I can use it to figure out which ABS sensor and Brake Sensor are out.

Last but not least, if I go more than 60 mph my driver rear fender flare blows almsot off. New clips arrive tomorrow, just in time for a business trip on Monday (hour @ 80 mph each way to the airport). I'll actually drop the car off at the MINI dealership for a passenger seat airbag sensor recall. I hope I can get all the dumb dash lights off before the weekend. Then it'll be my first road ish trip! (I commute 1.5 miles to work.)

 

Looks like you're well on your way. Car looks good and with the software you should be able to diag your ABS light easily.

 

Thank you WayMotorWorks. After this trip, I will need tires and to fix my mushrooming strut towers. Looking to use the 2x4 flattening method and then purchasing the Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber plates (non-adjustable) R50 R52 R53, and bushings at the same time.

What are your thoughts on preventing future mushrooming with those plates?

 

Future Shopping List is looking like..
Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber plates (non-adjustable)
Powerflex Front Control Arm Polyurethane Bushing kit
OEM Front Sway Bar Bushings 24mm

Anything else I should do while I have the front end apart again?

 

Got my INPA software today. Its a little clunky but I was able to reset my fuel adaptations. And pulled this from the computer.

I think this is telling me the 2nd Map (tmap?) sensor is bad as is the O2 post cat. Could someone please confirm that? I would really appreciate it! And how do I check which brake sensor is worn in the INPA software?

O2 Sensor & TMAP?

 

It looks like the downstream Ox sensor is dead, this will also make mixture too lean, as there is nothing it can learn from. Of course this does not mean the cat, or upstream sensor is not also dead.
There only two brake wear sensors. One on the front driver side and one on the right rear passenger side. You can see if they are bad, if the rotor was wearing on worn out brakes. Also it is possible that the blue or black sensor plug may need to be cleaned ot re seated, as they can corrode and contact cleaner can usually fix the plugs. The rear one can be a pita to get at.

 

Thank you. I think I am going to try super cheap by ordering the o2 sensor online with a prime company "Kwiksen Heated O2 Oxygen Sensor 234-4457." Seems to get great reviews at less than $30 shipped.

I'll pull off the driver front wheel today and look at both the brake and abs sensors. Thank you for the pointer about a possible corroded connector.

 

Yes they work and do prevent it. But with the IE plates they are thicker so the mushroom plates are less needed.

Good list. Since you will be pulling the subframe it's not a bad idea to go ahead with the powerflex steering rack bushing, and do the ball joints.

 

I really like following these rebuild threads.

This should help with many questions you might have:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-project.html

This guy has done it all with his Gen I MINI and you might be able to find info you need.

Hope this helps and hope it all works out.

 

I really enjoyed reading these posts, you are doing everything I have done to mine over the past year, well minus the power issue. I had the p2096 code for over a month with no drivability issues, tore my junk apart a few times trying to find a vacuum leak and never found one. My end fix was the fuel pressure regulator, and the only reason I changed it was what I had read on this site, the funny thing is all my fuel pressures where in limits. I also changed o2 sensors manifold gasket and didn’t fix it. Where did you get the program?

 

Do you have any idea how much time I lost reading his build thread? haha the first few posts about his suspension and street-ability are right up my alley. I would love to autocross but this is my daily driver.

I need tires pretty badly and am on the fence on what needs fixed prior to my tire purchase. Below is a shot of my rears. I am not sure if the rear camber & toe are out of adjustment or if the PO failed to do his rotations.


Rear Tire Wear.

ssean - Thank you. I took my MINI in for a recall and a diagnostic was performed. They cleared my SES light and I have been waiting for it to come back on. They smoke tested my intake and found a massive leak around my green supercharger to intake gasket. I forgot to replace that one when I tore the front end apart. It has been a few days and about 100 miles. It has stayed off. I was trying to reset it with the INPA software that I bought at an online auction site. It worked to tell me which ABS sensor was out and that my O2 sensor has a ground fault. I could not figure out how to clear my SES light though. Hope that helps.

 

A lot of us autocross our DDs. A guy I know womps me with his stock class S and the only thing he did was put in a 19mm RSB. Needless to say, he is a better driver than I am...

 

I'm a little torn as to which Strut Mount to install and I want to save a few bucks. I want my car to be smooth and I think the damping is needed (and OEM designed for a reason).
Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber plates ~$200 with damping
or
Adjustable Camber plates such as $100 or $85 + Shipping BUT No Damping.
Has anyone used the adjustable plates before?

Also thinking of these tires --> Sumitomo HTR A/S P02

Thanks in advance!