When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1st GearNew members: make an initial post and introduce yourself as you shift from Neutral to First Gear. Current members: meet some of the new members.
IE fixed plates for the road. They also have a built-in reinforcement plate that will prevent mushrooming of the shock tower on your car. No need for adjustable unless you are running the car on the track, with R Comp tires, where you will want more the -2 deg camber up front.
The adjustables are likely not sealed and the bearings will be shot in a couple of years. No dampening, so the ride won't be the best... These get used all the time for cars going on the track or are for autocross. A search should bring up a few posts about them.
IE fixed plates for the road. They also have a built-in reinforcement plate that will prevent mushrooming of the shock tower on your car. No need for adjustable unless you are running the car on the track, with R Comp tires, where you will want more the -2 deg camber up front.
The adjustables are likely not sealed and the bearings will be shot in a couple of years. No dampening, so the ride won't be the best... These get used all the time for cars going on the track or are for autocross. A search should bring up a few posts about them.
Thank you Eddie for the second opinion. I was pretty sure I would need the dampening. My wife drove the car for the first time last night, only around the block, but she says it is way too stiff.
GEN 1s tend to ride a little .... stiff, compared to GEN2s and 3s (IMHO) especially with RunFlats. I will mention I updated to the newer Continental CONTIPROCONTACT SSR about 2 years ago and they do run smother and less rigid they work out pretty good on track days as well.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not pushing the Contis, just sharing. I like them so much I have them on all four on my MINIs.
Ref: Rear tire wear, what your photos shows is what I see as normal wear, the trick is to make sure you rotate your tires at least every 10K miles (I do mine with every other oil change). HOWEVER... double check your wheel bearings and bearing carriers just to make sure you don't have any slop in them.
I am ready to fix my suspension. Going with IE Fixed Camber Plates from Way Motor Works. (Thanks for your help in this thread.) Ordering locally my tires. Sumitomo HTR A/S P02 - 215/45R17 91W
I would like some help with the damping. I have used Koni Str-T struts (orange) on my last two cars and they were perfect for me (Both VWs). I would like to spend as little as possible for a good set on all corners. That means adjustable is not a need.
Those are good threads that I follow. Note, however, the B4s are a replacement for the Cooper and Cooper S shocks. Yes, I know, they say that they will fit the JCW, but the JCW came with stiffer shocks to go with the stiffer springs. A better match would be the B6 Bilsteins. I have the B8s and will say that they are far superior to any of the stock MINI shocks in their control of bumps. Even though they are stiffer, they take out the sharp jarring, unlike the MINI shock. These are so good I have gone back to using the OEM RFTs that came on the car. So, I believe you would do well with the B6s for ride and you will get a benefit on handling over the B4s. I have also used the FSDs. These have a stiffness on par with the Cooper S shock, but like the Bilstein shocks, they are far superior for ride. That said they are not particularly good for the track or for autocross; the valving that works so well on the street seems to get confused on the track and autocross and they are too soft. Also, note that if you are thinking of lowering springs, the FSDs can not be used with them. That would leave you with the Bilsteins..
With the addition of the camberplates for handling, I would suggest going with the more sporting B6 or FSDs for the road.
Those are good threads that I follow. Note, however, the B4s are a replacement for the Cooper and Cooper S shocks. Yes, I know, they say that they will fit the JCW, but the JCW came with stiffer shocks to go with the stiffer springs. A better match would be the B6 Bilsteins. I have the B8s and will say that they are far superior to any of the stock MINI shocks in their control of bumps. Even though they are stiffer, they take out the sharp jarring, unlike the MINI shock. These are so good I have gone back to using the OEM RFTs that came on the car. So, I believe you would do well with the B6s for ride and you will get a benefit on handling over the B4s. I have also used the FSDs. These have a stiffness on par with the Cooper S shock, but like the Bilstein shocks, they are far superior for ride. That said they are not particularly good for the track or for autocross; the valving that works so well on the street seems to get confused on the track and autocross and they are too soft. Also, note that if you are thinking of lowering springs, the FSDs can not be used with them. That would leave you with the Bilsteins..
With the addition of the camberplates for handling, I would suggest going with the more sporting B6 or FSDs for the road.
Eddie, Thank you very much for your insightful reply. From what I know, the 2005 JCW was an ala cart upgrade at the dealership. I have confirmed the intercooler, head, exhaust, but I know it did not come with the JCW brake package (at least it does not have that now). How would I confirm I have the JCW suspension?
Eddie, Thank you very much for your insightful reply. From what I know, the 2005 JCW was an ala cart upgrade at the dealership. I have confirmed the intercooler, head, exhaust, but I know it did not come with the JCW brake package (at least it does not have that now). How would I confirm I have the JCW suspension?
Ok, do you have red springs on the car (which would mean you have the optional JCW Sports Suspension and the B6 or B8 are your best shock options). Otherwise, the easiest way to tell is to measure the rear swaybar. The “base” JCW suspension has an 18 mm dia RSB and the S (which yours was made from) has a 17 mm dia RSB. I said “base” meaning the suspension that came on a factory prepared JCW. To add to the confusion, the “base” JCW suspension was offered as the “Sports Suspension” options on the Cooper and Cooper S. So, yours could have been ordered with the Sports Suspension and then the dealer did the JCW upgrades from there to make it a “full JCW” or it could have been ordered with the base S suspension and the ala cart upgrade done at a later dates, without the suspension upgrade. Remember that the RSBs have a coating on them so a measurement will be slightly over the sizes I gave.
If I was asked to guess, I would guess that you have the base S suspension. However, in my mind, it really wouldn’t matter which suspension you have. Either suspension would benefit from the upgraded shocks; that is, the B6 or FSDs. If cost is a really big driver, then thee B4s will be better than any of the MINI shocks (shocks are one thing MINI didn’t get right).
I’ve been following your thread. Great work so far!
I can give you some input on struts...keep the in mind that I don’t autoX or anything.....just spirited street driving at times.
I had an 06 r52s a few years back and replaced the worn out stock struts with Koni FSD.....night and day difference for daily street driving. The FSD takes a lot of the harshness out of the suspension. I also did a couple MOTD trips and they performed fine for me in the mountains.
Recently I picked up an 06 R53 as a fixer upper (much like you have here). This time around, I opted for the bilstein b4’s mostly due to the price point and because this is just a “fun car” (not a daily driver). The b4 struts are pretty firm much like the stock struts were new, but they seem to perform well and have done a nice job of tightening up the feel of the car (vs the old worn out stock struts).
No regrets for me on the b4s this time around.....I found them for a bit over $200 online for the whole set. The FSDs i had before were really nice in terms of ride comfort, but they weren’t worth the extra $500 over the bilsteins for me....again since this isn’t a daily driver this time.
Take all that for what it’s worth. Good luck and happy wrenching!
Ok, do you have red springs on the car (which would mean you have the optional JCW Sports Suspension and the B6 or B8 are your best shock options). Otherwise, the easiest way to tell is to measure the rear swaybar. The “base” JCW suspension has an 18 mm dia RSB and the S (which yours was made from) has a 17 mm dia RSB. I said “base” meaning the suspension that came on a factory prepared JCW. To add to the confusion, the “base” JCW suspension was offered as the “Sports Suspension” options on the Cooper and Cooper S. So, yours could have been ordered with the Sports Suspension and then the dealer did the JCW upgrades from there to make it a “full JCW” or it could have been ordered with the base S suspension and the ala cart upgrade done at a later dates, without the suspension upgrade. Remember that the RSBs have a coating on them so a measurement will be slightly over the sizes I gave.
If I was asked to guess, I would guess that you have the base S suspension. However, in my mind, it really wouldn’t matter which suspension you have. Either suspension would benefit from the upgraded shocks; that is, the B6 or FSDs. If cost is a really big driver, then thee B4s will be better than any of the MINI shocks (shocks are one thing MINI didn’t get right).
Hope that helps.
Eddie, Thank you again for the reply. My springs and shocks are all black and the struts looked like they have a factory barcode on them. I couldn't find a B6 or B8 for my Gen1 online. I'll put my digital caliper on the rear sway bar later tonight to confirm the Factory Mini S Suspension.
Originally Posted by Fastlane
I’ve been following your thread. Great work so far!
...
Recently I picked up an 06 R53 as a fixer upper (much like you have here). This time around, I opted for the bilstein b4’s mostly due to the price point and because this is just a “fun car” (not a daily driver). The b4 struts are pretty firm much like the stock struts were new, but they seem to perform well and have done a nice job of tightening up the feel of the car (vs the old worn out stock struts).
No regrets for me on the b4s this time around.....I found them for a bit over $200 online for the whole set. The FSDs i had before were really nice in terms of ride comfort, but they weren’t worth the extra $500 over the bilsteins for me....again since this isn’t a daily driver this time
Fastlane. Thank you for your reply as well. I am leaning towards the less expensive B4 for their price point. I am also on the fence on flipping this car, just not sure how long I'll own it.
I am ready to fix my suspension. Going with IE Fixed Camber Plates from Way Motor Works. (Thanks for your help in this thread.) Ordering locally my tires. Sumitomo HTR A/S P02 - 215/45R17 91W
I would like some help with the damping. I have used Koni Str-T struts (orange) on my last two cars and they were perfect for me (Both VWs). I would like to spend as little as possible for a good set on all corners. That means adjustable is not a need.
I've installed and used all the brands of shocks and I can say the B4s have that price point for a reason. They don't quite fit just right with the springs and rubbers. But when you drive they are a really soft weak feeling shock.
I'd for sure recommend the FSDs if you are not lowering the car. Or going with the Oranges as they will give you a better feel and match better to the MINI. We keep all them in stock even the B4s no matter what you decide.
Thought I would give a quick update. All of the items have arrived! Hopefully my dash can be light free again! Goal would be to install on Saturday.
Green Super Charger Gasket
CV Axle
Bilstein B4s
Fixed Camber Strut Mounts
Cracked Front Bumper Marker Light
Needle and Thread for my Driver's Seat
Brake Wear Sensors
Tires - Sumitomo HTR A/S P02 - 215/45R17 91W (Available Locally)
Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks
I've installed and used all the brands of shocks and I can say the B4s have that price point for a reason. They don't quite fit just right with the springs and rubbers. But when you drive they are a really soft weak feeling shock.
I'd for sure recommend the FSDs if you are not lowering the car. Or going with the Oranges as they will give you a better feel and match better to the MINI. We keep all them in stock even the B4s no matter what you decide.
WayMotorWorks - Thank you for your suggestion about the Bilsteins. Being honest with myself, I probably won't see a AutoX Event. My guess is that being a little weak on a Mini is still more firm than most other cars. And I can use a little more compliance Also saving some money on struts was important.
Are you doing the shocks yourself?
If you are, there are “tricks” to make it easier. However, you will likely find the pinch bolts well rusted in place an unrecoverable. If that is the case, then just twist it till it breaks, drill out the remainder and replace it with the R56 bolt and nut. I would just order a set now.
Are you doing the shocks yourself?
If you are, there are “tricks” to make it easier. However, you will likely find the pinch bolts well rusted in place an unrecoverable. If that is the case, then just twist it till it breaks, drill out the remainder and replace it with the R56 bolt and nut. I would just order a set now.
Eddie,
Are you saying it might end up like this? haha I've been under a car drilling and taping before. It sucks. Thanks for the heads up!
Mounting it on a drilll press and using a nice sharp drill bit is not fair to the rest of us who would be under the car with some battery powered drill and a dull bit, getting our arm twisted every time the bit jams...
OK - nicely done there!
Now, did you figure out that the old school 13/16 sparkplug socket, with the 7/8s hex on its top, fits the nut on top of the strut and you can hold the end of the strut with the 8mm Allen wrench through the top of the sparkplug socket while turning the socket with a box wrench?
And, kudos to having access to the nice industrial looking drill press.
Mounting it on a drilll press and using a nice sharp drill bit is not fair to the rest of us who would be under the car with some battery powered drill and a dull bit, getting our arm twisted every time the bit jams...
OK - nicely done there!
Now, did you figure out that the old school 13/16 sparkplug socket, with the 7/8s hex on its top, fits the nut on top of the strut and you can hold the end of the strut with the 8mm Allen wrench through the top of the sparkplug socket while turning the socket with a box wrench?
And, kudos to having access to the nice industrial looking drill press.
Haha! That's not my video, and I agree it is cheating! But I do have access to a drill press at work if it ends up that way Yes, to using an spark plug socket. I was struggling with a previous vehicle and my father shared that pointer.
I am hoping to get everything started tomorrow but it might be early next week before I can get to it.
Last edited by RndmGuy06; 07-06-2018 at 02:47 PM.
Reason: Grammar
So, if you haven’t started yet, one more pointer. You won’t be able to push the steering knuckle down far enough to get it off the end of the strut. So, you need to take a piece of 2x2 and place one end under the lower spring perch. The other end needs to hang down just below the control arm. Hold it in place along the side of the strut with some strong tape (Gorilla tape works for me). Using a floor jack against the end of the 2x2 you can compress the spring an inch or two that you will need to be able to slide the knuckle off the strut. I place a spacer (wood, ~3/4” thick) down low on the strut between it and the 2x2 so the bottom end of the 2x2 is away from the control arm and the knuckle will clear the jack when you disassemble it from the strut.
To do the reassemble, put the strut in place with the bolts finger tight. Compress the spring a bit, slide the knuckle in place and put the pinch bolt in place. Lower the strut/knuckle, then tighten everything.
So, if you haven’t started yet, one more pointer. You won’t be able to push the steering knuckle down far enough to get it off the end of the strut. So, you need to take a piece of 2x2 and place one end under the lower spring perch. The other end needs to hang down just below the control arm. Hold it in place along the side of the strut with some strong tape (Gorilla tape works for me). Using a floor jack against the end of the 2x2 you can compress the spring an inch or two that you will need to be able to slide the knuckle off the strut. I place a spacer (wood, ~3/4” thick) down low on the strut between it and the 2x2 so the bottom end of the 2x2 is away from the control arm and the knuckle will clear the jack when you disassemble it from the strut.
To do the reassemble, put the strut in place with the bolts finger tight. Compress the spring a bit, slide the knuckle in place and put the pinch bolt in place. Lower the strut/knuckle, then tighten everything.
Hope that helps.
Eddie. Took me a couple reads to make sense. I'm sure at that point, I would be trying to apply a load to the bottom of the strut vs the lower spring perch
Thanks for the pointer!
Last edited by RndmGuy06; 07-07-2018 at 09:19 AM.
Reason: Grammar
Thought I would give an update. Today was supposed to be a yard and garden day. This morning I installed a new filter system for my secondary water. Then it got too hot. (100° F) Everyone came inside, and I saw this as an opportunity! Pulled out the old window AC unit and made it fit into the garage window. Dropped my garage temp from a stagnant 90 degrees and rising to a perfect 70 degrees!
Started on the car after lunch. Worked on it off and on the rest of the night. Broke a snap ring tool at 12:07a Sunday morning. I guess I need to keep the Sabbath Day holy I'll pick up again on Monday afternoon and hopefully order tires this week.
Rear shocks went easy, except in one side the lower shock bolt. Had to use a torch... Driver side went really easy, until I forgot to move the brake line back into position. Ended up bleeding the caliper at about 10:30p. PS. My wife is amazing! Passenger side went super easy. Replaced a CV axle vs just repairing a torn boot. That middle bearing support sucks to loosen. Snapped my snap ring pliers at 12:07a Sunday morning. Guess I should keep the Sabbath Day holy This is where she sits... Until Monday...
Wow you didn't waste any time getting stuck in and great progress - I just joined the forum, having bought a 2006 JCW (with only 72,000 km or 45,000 miles ) in Qatar and have a few jobs to sort out. From what I have seen so far, without getting my hands dirty (yet): both inner CV boots are split, front suspension bushes or engine mounts might need doing (as when i take my foot off the throttle at higher revs, you get quite a shunt/jolt), plus the coolant reservoir appears to have plain water in it and no coolant at all and the rear wheel bearings are noisy as hell.
Looks like we share similar 'heat issues' ! I am thinking to work early morning just after prayer time which is very early at the moment (4am). Any tips on coolant and oil selection for the hot climate ? The car is Gulf spec and fitted with an extra cooling fan somewhere I believe.
Last edited by QatarJCWR53; 07-08-2018 at 09:33 PM.
Reason: More info
I didn’t have any issues installing the B4’s other the the fronts I had to open up the lower mount due to the b4 base being just a little bit bigger. I have had them installed all four corners and they are a little stiffer then I hoped but I like the way they have improved the handle of, now I also have the proflex control arm bushings. Keep all the updates coming you are doing awesome with your toy
Wow you didn't waste any time getting stuck in and great progress - I just joined the forum, having bought a 2006 JCW (with only 72,000 km or 45,000 miles ) in Qatar and have a few jobs to sort out. From what I have seen so far, without getting my hands dirty (yet): both inner CV boots are split, front suspension bushes or engine mounts might need doing (as when i take my foot off the throttle at higher revs, you get quite a shunt/jolt), plus the coolant reservoir appears to have plain water in it and no coolant at all and the rear wheel bearings are noisy as hell.
Looks like we share similar 'heat issues' ! I am thinking to work early morning just after prayer time which is very early at the moment (4am). Any tips on coolant and oil selection for the hot climate ? The car is Gulf spec and fitted with an extra cooling fan somewhere I believe.
BMW/MINI has their own spec for coolant and it isn’t compatible with other coolants. As for the jolt when lifting off the throttle, that is likely a blown engine mount. There are a lot of posts on NAM here as to replacing that. With 45k miles on the car, the lower control arm bushings are likely to also need replacement. The Powerflex are a good choice and could be done at the same time as replacing the CV boots. Enjoy your “new” MINI. Sounds like it has a good home now.
06-18-2018, 06:34 PM
Also saving some money on struts was important.
