Drivetrain Boost gauge how-to
#2
#4
It is quite easy to do but you have to watch the difference between Aus cars and US cars. Just the small things like if you mount the gauge with you speedo mount it to the right as you don't have enough clearence behind the cup on the right to swing the pvc line into. I has mine mounted and then had to take it out. Buy the gauges from aaron at outmotoring, they are about $100 cheaper, just remember to get them in metric. If you look up the top of the fire wall on the drivers side you will see some cables going through. Locate them in the drivers side coul in the engine bay. That is the easiest way to get through. You will need to push a coat hanger wire through and tape onto it as a draw wire. Then you just zip tie it to any lines that lead to your IC. Take the IC off and under that will be the Fuel Pressure Reg. On that you will see a black vacuum hose, The FPR is the round circular thing in the middle pretty much. You can tape into that black line or if you look at the intake manifold on the left hand side under neath it you will find another black line coming out of it. I think this one is a hard plastic but it turns to rubber somewhere, I can't remember where. You can cut your T piece in there. Once you do that then it is just a matter of connecting it up as described in the instructions. The tricky bit is the Wiring of the lights. You need to splice into the ground and find the dimming wire. I think it is the middle one. If you you have a dc voltmeter you will find it. The ground wire is black or brown with a stripe on it I think so start with that one then find you 12V constant. Once you find that then check it to another ground source to make sure you have found ground. Then just go through them on the green connector plug. You might need a hand for this as you need to hole the probs on the ground, turn the key to on the one just before it starts and then turn your lights on and off to find it. Once you have found it you can double check by decreasing the dimming control which will lower the voltage or increasing it which will raise the voltage. Once you have found the 2 wires then you just need to splice into them at about 5cm back from the green plug other wise they won't reach the gauge. I also upgraded the bulb to the next wattage up as the ones that come with it are too dull. I am pretty sure that the rest is explained well on the website Steve11 has given you. That probably has the wires you need to connect into as well. These are just a few things I found out along the way of doing mine. I hope it helps.
#6
Thanks for the great info! FYI i have ordered an autometer mech ultra lite 2 1/16 gauge and a craven speed Z braket+cup. I have the chrono pack, so i couldn't get any of the OEM eqip.
Seems like the job is getting easier and easier as i read more...
Seems like the job is getting easier and easier as i read more...
It is quite easy to do but you have to watch the difference between Aus cars and US cars. Just the small things like if you mount the gauge with you speedo mount it to the right as you don't have enough clearence behind the cup on the right to swing the pvc line into. I has mine mounted and then had to take it out. Buy the gauges from aaron at outmotoring, they are about $100 cheaper, just remember to get them in metric. If you look up the top of the fire wall on the drivers side you will see some cables going through. Locate them in the drivers side coul in the engine bay. That is the easiest way to get through. You will need to push a coat hanger wire through and tape onto it as a draw wire. Then you just zip tie it to any lines that lead to your IC. Take the IC off and under that will be the Fuel Pressure Reg. On that you will see a black vacuum hose, The FPR is the round circular thing in the middle pretty much. You can tape into that black line or if you look at the intake manifold on the left hand side under neath it you will find another black line coming out of it. I think this one is a hard plastic but it turns to rubber somewhere, I can't remember where. You can cut your T piece in there. Once you do that then it is just a matter of connecting it up as described in the instructions. The tricky bit is the Wiring of the lights. You need to splice into the ground and find the dimming wire. I think it is the middle one. If you you have a dc voltmeter you will find it. The ground wire is black or brown with a stripe on it I think so start with that one then find you 12V constant. Once you find that then check it to another ground source to make sure you have found ground. Then just go through them on the green connector plug. You might need a hand for this as you need to hole the probs on the ground, turn the key to on the one just before it starts and then turn your lights on and off to find it. Once you have found it you can double check by decreasing the dimming control which will lower the voltage or increasing it which will raise the voltage. Once you have found the 2 wires then you just need to splice into them at about 5cm back from the green plug other wise they won't reach the gauge. I also upgraded the bulb to the next wattage up as the ones that come with it are too dull. I am pretty sure that the rest is explained well on the website Steve11 has given you. That probably has the wires you need to connect into as well. These are just a few things I found out along the way of doing mine. I hope it helps.
#7
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#8
This is the one I used. It's a "budget" boost gauge setup using an autometer gauge, but the instructions can be adjusted to your needs. I've had it on for a long time already and it still works perfectly.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ight=Autometer
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ight=Autometer
#10
That is the same as I used. I don't have the chrono pack but I used the Craven speed pod holder. They are really good and you can put it anywhere. The hardest part is not kinking the PVC line coming into the back of the gauge. I am not at home at the moment but I will try to take some pics and post when I get home on Saturday for you.
#13
well i got the gauge installed... the gauge has both boost and vac on it.. but im wondering if i didnt somethign wrong.
it wont register boost. the needle only moves to the vac. maybe i put it on the wrong hose ?
i have a 2005 mini cooper S. can someone please be a bit more explicit with teh pics showing the hose to tap off of ?
Thanks much..
Terry
it wont register boost. the needle only moves to the vac. maybe i put it on the wrong hose ?
i have a 2005 mini cooper S. can someone please be a bit more explicit with teh pics showing the hose to tap off of ?
Thanks much..
Terry
#14
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#18
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The car should idle in vacuum (around 15 mmHg), but it should show boost when you put the pedal to the floor (~10psi stock, ~15psi with pulley). If it doesn't, maybe you have a Cooper.
Also, the Alta website has a good how-to with pictures. My vacuum hose kept popping off the FPR, so I went to the port on the side of the intake manifold, just downstream of the intercooler, and Tee'd in there.
Also, the Alta website has a good how-to with pictures. My vacuum hose kept popping off the FPR, so I went to the port on the side of the intake manifold, just downstream of the intercooler, and Tee'd in there.
#20
hahahahahahah thats funny **** LOL
Like a dumb butt.. i put it on the wrong side LOL now its registering properly. thanks guys...
____________________________________________
05' R53 MCS. Alta 15% reduction SC Pulley, Alta Cold Air intake, Alta Catalyst w/ Header, Alta Exhaust System 3", Alta Short Shifter w/****, DBA Slotted Rotors, HPS Pads, Autometer C2 Series 2-1/16" Boost/Vacuum Gauge -30 In. Hg/30 psi, 61mm APEXi Exhaust Control Valve (ECV).
Like a dumb butt.. i put it on the wrong side LOL now its registering properly. thanks guys...
____________________________________________
05' R53 MCS. Alta 15% reduction SC Pulley, Alta Cold Air intake, Alta Catalyst w/ Header, Alta Exhaust System 3", Alta Short Shifter w/****, DBA Slotted Rotors, HPS Pads, Autometer C2 Series 2-1/16" Boost/Vacuum Gauge -30 In. Hg/30 psi, 61mm APEXi Exhaust Control Valve (ECV).
Last edited by stripe-man; 05-20-2008 at 08:35 AM. Reason: forgot something
#24
ahahhahah NO no .. i get it! Thanks soooo much for spelling that out for me LOL
damn.. where do you buy 1mm SS from ?
i tried to take out that damn air piece and let me tell you ..it feels like that damn thing is IN there to stay!!!
damn.. where do you buy 1mm SS from ?
i tried to take out that damn air piece and let me tell you ..it feels like that damn thing is IN there to stay!!!
Last edited by stripe-man; 05-20-2008 at 10:04 AM. Reason: oops
#25
like i said: pull really REALLY hard ( its actually more easy to pull off the gear **** then to pull out that damm air piece -_- )
i tied some rope to it, so i could pull better
@ the steel plate
metall-working companies i guess
im a metal worker myself i had plenty @ work ( thanks to my work i could do some fine mods on my mini )
the easy way would be to search for a company that has a cutting laser/plasma -> just give them the measurements and they can cut it out for you ( perfectly round, its importend that it fits exactly ! )
but then you still have to modifie the plastic ( i used an old lathe )
i tied some rope to it, so i could pull better
@ the steel plate
metall-working companies i guess
im a metal worker myself i had plenty @ work ( thanks to my work i could do some fine mods on my mini )
the easy way would be to search for a company that has a cutting laser/plasma -> just give them the measurements and they can cut it out for you ( perfectly round, its importend that it fits exactly ! )
but then you still have to modifie the plastic ( i used an old lathe )
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