Forge BOV/Diverter Valve Group Buy
Forge BOV/Diverter Valve Group Buy
Way Motor Works is pleased to offer a Group Buy on the best diverter valve replacement you can get, the Forge Complete Diverter Valve replacement kit. There as been a lot of testing and discussion about this kit and over and over we've found nothing but great results. This valve will build boost faster, hold it longer and dump it faster. So the only downside has been the retail price being $259. So we thought doing a group buy could put these in more MINI owners hands. We got with Forge and if we can get 10 people we can sell them for $199, if we get 20 we will have FREE shipping in the US on them.
If you want in on this Group Buy simply email us at info@waymotorworks.com with Forge GB as the title and we will put you on the list. This Group Buy will run now till Sept 25th.
If you want in on this Group Buy simply email us at info@waymotorworks.com with Forge GB as the title and we will put you on the list. This Group Buy will run now till Sept 25th.
. It's a great part!
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Can't wait to get mine. Thanks for the excellent customer service!
Nope. "This Group Buy will run now till Sept 25th."
I bought one after I missed the GB from Way. Well worth it, and the R60 kit works for both the 2011 and 2012 R60.
I bought one after I missed the GB from Way. Well worth it, and the R60 kit works for both the 2011 and 2012 R60.
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: VS, NY
Thank you for the info!!! How hard to install?? pm me
The GB ended long time ago, but we do have the Forge BOV kit for the R60 available, it's pretty much the same as the R56 kit just different vac T.
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
From: Cannon AFB, Clovis, New Mexico
Way,
I FINALLY got around to installing mine today and noticed a few changes that apply to 2012 models, JCWs, or both. In the order I noticed them:
1) The fresh air intake tube that goes into the header now has a clip that holds it in place. To remove it there it a little tab on it that needs to be pushed in so the clip will release and you can remove the hose. There is also TWO electrical connectors connected to the intake tube now.
2) There is some hose that runs over that intake tube. It has a quick release on each end and then it can be unclipped from the clip on the intake. This will make taking the intake tube out significantly easier.
3) The lower air tube on the filter box no longer just pulls out. You have to pull the box off of it's mounting feet and then rotate it about 1/8th turn CCW and THEN you can remove it.
4) The long plug on the solenoid valve extension harness needs to have the nub and rails on the long section (the bottom?) removed so the tab on the short section can engage the clip.
I think that's it. I can get you pics if it'll help.
Also, was there supposed to be a nut and bolt to attach the solenoid to the engine lifting tab included in the box? I used a zip tie for now, but I was just wondering.
Other than that you were right about getting those bolts for the DV out... man sis that suck! lol
Thanks again Way!
edit: I forgot to ask, I have a factory JCW Clubbie. Should I be running the yellow spring that was included or is the pre-installed green spring good until I tune?
I FINALLY got around to installing mine today and noticed a few changes that apply to 2012 models, JCWs, or both. In the order I noticed them:
1) The fresh air intake tube that goes into the header now has a clip that holds it in place. To remove it there it a little tab on it that needs to be pushed in so the clip will release and you can remove the hose. There is also TWO electrical connectors connected to the intake tube now.
2) There is some hose that runs over that intake tube. It has a quick release on each end and then it can be unclipped from the clip on the intake. This will make taking the intake tube out significantly easier.
3) The lower air tube on the filter box no longer just pulls out. You have to pull the box off of it's mounting feet and then rotate it about 1/8th turn CCW and THEN you can remove it.
4) The long plug on the solenoid valve extension harness needs to have the nub and rails on the long section (the bottom?) removed so the tab on the short section can engage the clip.
I think that's it. I can get you pics if it'll help.
Also, was there supposed to be a nut and bolt to attach the solenoid to the engine lifting tab included in the box? I used a zip tie for now, but I was just wondering.
Other than that you were right about getting those bolts for the DV out... man sis that suck! lol
Thanks again Way!
edit: I forgot to ask, I have a factory JCW Clubbie. Should I be running the yellow spring that was included or is the pre-installed green spring good until I tune?
Last edited by quality_sound; Nov 13, 2011 at 10:34 PM.
Just an FYI, if you have the new Alta Hard pipe, you have a fiddle with this to get it in right. It will not fit 100% with the turbo so you have to leave a lip on it.
Quality, if you are running anything beyond stock tune run the yellow. It is for 15 psi+
Quality, if you are running anything beyond stock tune run the yellow. It is for 15 psi+
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
From: Cannon AFB, Clovis, New Mexico
Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if the fJCW's were running higher boost or not. I REALLY don't want to get in there again. It wasn't the worst thing I've ever done, but the small working area and threat of lost bolts is kind of nerve wracking. lol
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 161
Likes: 2
From: IL
I'm getting ready to put my engine back in. When I lost a piston I was in the 29psi range. Does anyone one know how this BOV works in that range? With the new forged pistons/rods, meth injection I plan on pushing it to 30-32 psi.
Thanks
Ray
Thanks
Ray
