I have a new Wilwood 11.75 BBK. I am trying to figure out which hardware to use to bolt the caliper mounting bracket to the caliper. There seems to be more washers than are needed and a set of aluminum washers (spacers?) that I can't figure out where to put them.

Pictured below is the hardware supplied with each caliper.
1. The nuts and 5/8" flat washer obviously go on the bracket studs. (#12 and #13 in diagram)
2. There are 6-51/64" flat washers provided. According to the diagram (below) it looks as if two of them go between the caliper bracket and the caliper. (a. I don't know what to do with the extra 4 of them. b. Why are these even needed?)
3. There are 2 black aluminum washers (spacers?) also provided but there is no clear indication where these go. Unless these go between the caliper bracket and the caliper.

Ideas anyone? Todd? Waylen?

 

The nice thing about these 'radial' mount calipers it the ability to shim them up in two directions. I'm betting that all of those are in fact shims, but for the two brass color washers. Use what ones are needed to center that caliper to the centerline of the rotor. Couldn't tell you where the thick ones go. Should be easy to figure out though.

 

You would think..but duh!

BTW, The torque spec for the rotor to the rotor-hat is 180 in-lb. That works out to just 15 ft lbs. WOW...that is not much!

 

Torque, .. that's correct. Torque is bolt size specific, not aplication wise. Those are small bolts. Make sure you red loctight, or better yet drill and safety wire each bolt. Being that most won't bother with safety wire, red loctight will do.

 

Well for the 11.75 kit you usually don't need to use any of the spacers. Just mount the calibers straight to the brackets. Then check to make sure the pads are making full contact on the rotors. That's when you use the spacers to move the caliber out if it's in toward the middle too far.

As for the rotor hats. Like onasled said use the red loctight. The bolts are already drilled for the safety wire. So go ahead and safety wire them too. Good trick to make sure that when you put the bolts in you index the safety wire holes so you can get it through them to the next bolt. Sometimes you have to swap the bolts around a couple times to get them lined up.

 

Thanks guys! It all makes sense now!

 

The same bracket kit is supplied for both the 11.75 and 12.19" kits. The larger spacer used to push the caliper out for the larger rotor.

Steel shims are used to both center the rotor (6) as well as position the caliper (14) radially. From my own experience I'd advise against using NO shims on the radial bracket. This can place the bridge area of the caliper too close to the rotor itself and allow contact between the two. The purpose of the shims is to position the pad at the outer most radius of the rotor. With that as a guide most brackets are "undersized" for production variation of the vehicle and require a couple of shims to locate the pad this way. Most Wilwood bracket seem to work best with two shims per stud from my experience on various kits.

 

I found the same thing in my experience as Todd. Two shims are all I needed.

 

I'am not trying to argue. But on my own personal car and the last two I installed a kit on the pads would hang off the edge if I used any shims. I thought it was weird the first time. But after seeing it again it seems normal. I think it will just depend on each kit.

 

For what its worth, I used one shim to center the caliper and no shims to position radially. This was a 11.75 kit on my '06 .