so i bought new rims today. problem is the OEM lug bolts are too big for the holes of the said rims. can i just buy skinnier lug bolts or do i have to find a new set of wheels that would fit?

...they are 17x7.5 bbs lm (reps) btw

 

Google "tuner bolts" they are skinny and use a sort of key to come on and off. It is a very common issue, so the rims should be fine. Just make sure you get the right thread pitch.

 

bitesize: Sorry, but I'm still trying to learn about wheels for the MINI myself, so the two posts confuse me. Do you mean that the OEM lug bolts are too large in diameter to fit through the bolt holes of the wheel? If so, that might mean the wheels are designed to take the earlier OEM 12 mm bolts rather than the later OEM 14 mm bolts?

HRM: My probably incomplete understanding of tuner bolts is that they have a cone shaped seat rather than the OEM ball shaped seat, but come in various diameters. Thus, I'm confused about why tuner bolts would necessarily be the solution to the diameter problem. I would appreciate some enlightenment.

 

If you have the 14 mm hubs (after 2006), then maybe you need the studs that convert
from 14x1.25 to 12x1.5 such as these (along with 16 nuts to go with them):
http://www.waymotorworks.com/m14-to-...rsion-kit.html

If you have 12 mm hubs but the oem bolts are too big, then you might need narrower tuner bolts
that are designed for your aftermarket wheels. In that case, whoever sold you the wheels should
know.

 

The bolts are not too big usually, the opening for the lugs is too small to fit a socket in. If the socket won't fit, you can't tighten the bolts (which actually fit fine) Tuner lugs (and maybe others) use a skinny sleeve to tighten and loosen the bolts. The skinny adapter fits where a normal socket won't.

 

I would just buy the stud conversion from Way Motor Works. The studs make life so much easier.

 

on an old set i had..same issue.. stud diameter too big for rim hole!!

what i did though was drill the rim stud hole..if your patient and have the right tools it can be great..

i put rim flat and the drill bit i had ( not sure what size it was anymore) any how it was a smidgen bigger than the pre existing hole which was just big enough for stud to fall through..in my case i was still able to get my socket securely around nut...plus that fact that i did it slow and as straight as possible..and i also has hub rings and all to center it well ...

i know its not always recommended but it worked well for me!!

 

Btw, i have a 2010 r56. I will probably go with the stud conversion kit. But im curious if those will last? I mean, i'm scared they'll snap off or something.

 

I just put them on my car they're huge and I strongly doubt they'll snap off. Got mine at Way Motor Works I suggest you do the same.

 

I've had the 14mm -> 12 mm conversion studs on my '06 for 80k miles with no problems (other than the black phosphate coating wearing off quickly, causing a little bit of surface rust on the studs.) They're very sturdy, and it makes it so much easier to swap out wheels since you can just slide the wheel onto the studs rather than having to rest the wheel on the hub lip and then line up the bolt holes in the wheel with the holes in the hub.

 

If the lug bolts won't fit through the holes on the new wheels you can't just use skinny lug bolts. (Not Possible) If you can you need to take the wheels back for a refund or exchange for the proper wheels that are for your car.

Even if you replace the lug bolts with studs they will still be just as thick and still won't fit into the small wheel lug holes.

The Wheel lug pattern may not even be the same as your stock wheels.

Keep your car safe to drive and don't take a chance on trying to adapt something that does not fit such as a wheel.

 

Not necessarily. What some of the posters (myself included) are talking about are *conversion* studs, which are 14 mm x 1.25 mm where they fasten into the hub, and then taper down to 12 mm x 1.5 mm so they'll work with just about any aftermarket wheels. 12 mm x 1.5 mm is the same diameter and thread pitch that MINI used for the first five years, so there's no safety issues there.

It is important to remember that if you go with the conversion studs, you should use 88 lbf-ft as the proper torque when tightening the lug nuts, rather than the 103 lbf-ft that the owner's manual recommends for the 14 mm lug bolts.

 

Reviving this thread here with a few more questions on this topic. I got some 949 racing wheels that have the 12mm holes. If I buy the stud conversion, does anyone know if they are strong enough for track use? I see the Way Motor Works ones that someone mentioned, also found some made by Wheelmate that are half the price:
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm...HEELMATE-STUDS

Anyone have experience with these?

Finally, and most important, Does anyone use these without the recommended Loctite? I would like to be able to remove the studs to use my stock wheels. I've talked to at least one racer who says the Loctite is not really necessary if torqued properly. Anyone have a second opinion on this, or better yet, any actual experience?

Thanks,
DD

 

You'll be fine. I run them on my current setup with Loctite. May not be necessary, but I personally have them on. I have friends that run stud conversions w/o so that's your call. I wouldn't be worried about them snapping or anything on the track.

 

Thanks for the info. I emailed the guy from Evasive. He says he thinks the Loctite is a must, but that removing the studs shouldn't be a problem anyway. I only do a few track days a year, so I won't be switching wheels too often.
Happy 4th.

 

We run Way's studs that taper from 14 to 12 with no issues. Make sure you install with red loctite. We run 235 Star Spec Z2s with no issues and they generate a pretty good lateral load on the studs. We probably have swapped tires 80 times since we've put the studs on. Never had them come loose or had a lug nut come untorqued. Just make sure the shop knows they can't torque the nuts to 100+ ft*lbs if you take it somewhere. The nice thing about the studs is that if one gets messed up you can replace it vs having to replace the entire wheel hub. Ask me how I know

 

Thanks. The guy I talked to recommended blue Loctite. I don't know the difference. Have you removed the studs at all after using the Loctite?

 

Red is for bolts you really don't want to have to pull back out, where blue makes it a pain to get bolts back out, LOL. (red is stronger)

How do you loosen red Loctite?
A: The best way I have found is with heat. And lots of it.

 

You can open up the holes in the wheels. This option may be better for your application. I have tracked on wheels with r compound that were opened up for 14mm and used them on a car that had 12mm studs with no issues. You will not weaken the wheel by opening up the lug holes

 

Hmmm. I may have to re-think this whole idea. Thanks for the replies. Don't really want to re-drill the wheels.
May just sell the whole set-up and start over. Didn't realize when I bought the wheels that they were 12mm, and mounted the tires before I checked fitment. I don't really mind using studs- actually, I like the idea, except that my street wheels are 14mm.

 

Then you could buy the stud kit and use the 12 mm lug nuts with the 14mm wheels.

 

Way recommended red loctite. Pretty sure the only way you're going to remove it is with heat.

Don't do that. It'll just be a huge waste of money. You're overcomplicating this. Buy the 14 to 12mm stud conversion. Buy some cone seat lug nuts that fit both your wheels and be happy you never again have to deal with those stupid lug bolts. We run the stock JCW wheels, the NM Engineering RSe05 and a set of Motegi SP10s (which use the tuner lugs) all on the studs and all without any issues. We use the 949 Racing lugs on both the stock wheels and the NM Engineering wheels and a set of muteki tuner lugs for the motegis.

 

I didn't really think about that- using the studs with the stock wheels. You're right though- should be fine.
Thanks.