question on replacing only one run flat tire
question on replacing only one run flat tire
I have a run flat tire, 18 inch continental that was punctured and it ruined just the one tire. Other tires are in almost new condition. Is it wise to replace just the one tire? I've always been told to buy tires in either pairs or complete sets. The tire dealer looked at the tire and said my MCS should have an allignment done. I'm not sure this is necessary. Any comments? Also, the used car dealer that I bought the car from showed me how to reset the danger tire symbol and it did not come back on after resetting. My thinking is that it is reset to represent the current condition of the tires and unless that condition changes the light does not come back on. So the run flat performed so well that I drove on it for way too long. mrjudi
True, but not helpful in this case...
Depending on how worn the others are, you might be ok with just buying one tire especially if they have low miles. As for the alignment it is possible that you might need one. Did he ask you this because of wear on the current tires? You might try finding another place that you can trust a bit more with the information they are giving you. Maybe a local friend can recommend a place?
Depending on how worn the others are, you might be ok with just buying one tire especially if they have low miles. As for the alignment it is possible that you might need one. Did he ask you this because of wear on the current tires? You might try finding another place that you can trust a bit more with the information they are giving you. Maybe a local friend can recommend a place?
Thanks Daflake
The man told me about the alignment because of the wear on the single run flat with the problem. That tells me that it was just that one tire that is the problem and not the alignment. I think your advice is good to try and find someone with more knowledge regarding run flats. The tire dealer did not seem to know much about run flats and was undecided whether the tire was a run flat or not. He couldn't even find a continental run flat in that size, that tells me something. Perhaps I'll replace just the one tire and then check wear more often to see if alignment is a problem. Does that sound like the right approach?
Mrjudi
Mrjudi
The same thing has happened to me. Since the other tires are in almost new condition, you can replace just the one tire. Make sure you replace the tire with the same exact make/model/size and type (ie, runflat).
A problem arises if the other tires (specifically the one on the opposite side of the same axle) are significantly worn.
I agree that when it does come time to replace all of your tires, ditch the runflats!
A problem arises if the other tires (specifically the one on the opposite side of the same axle) are significantly worn.
I agree that when it does come time to replace all of your tires, ditch the runflats!
If those tires aren't directional, try to put the new one on the front left side. That tire always wears faster than the others, at least for me. I guess it's due to those curved highway ramps...
Thanks for the tip, but the tire industry (for reasons I don't fully understand) recommend your best tires on the rear of the car now.
To those who do not recommend run flats, is it the weight you object to or the tire life or the performance? And if you drive your car in the West where sometimes a service station or dealer is just not around the corner, what do you do when you have a flat...? I like performance as more than most but I'm trying to be practical as well. I'd have a different attitude if I was racing on a track on the weekends. mrjudi
To those who do not recommend run flats, is it the weight you object to or the tire life or the performance? And if you drive your car in the West where sometimes a service station or dealer is just not around the corner, what do you do when you have a flat...? I like performance as more than most but I'm trying to be practical as well. I'd have a different attitude if I was racing on a track on the weekends. mrjudi
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some reasons to switch:
Many of the squeaks on the car (if you have any, i did) had are quieter or altogether eliminated now.
Much of the torque steer is reduced, although this could be due to many different factors (including wider tire or different tread pattern or different tire composition).
The ride is ALOT more smooth and quiet, you dont feel every single bump.
As for me, i was always okay with my runflats but after everyone talking about them on this forum i decided to get rid of them. Like all our NAMers, i said WOW!
Many of the squeaks on the car (if you have any, i did) had are quieter or altogether eliminated now.
Much of the torque steer is reduced, although this could be due to many different factors (including wider tire or different tread pattern or different tire composition).
The ride is ALOT more smooth and quiet, you dont feel every single bump.
As for me, i was always okay with my runflats but after everyone talking about them on this forum i decided to get rid of them. Like all our NAMers, i said WOW!
Runflats have a rigid sidewall which makes for a harsher ride.
Non-runflats have a significantly better ride, there are a lot more choices, and they're cheaper.
You can put together a toolkit with a compressor, tire repair plugs and/or "Slime" for about $30. Or you can just rely on your AAA membership.
You'll find tons of info about this topic when you do a search.
Non-runflats have a significantly better ride, there are a lot more choices, and they're cheaper.
You can put together a toolkit with a compressor, tire repair plugs and/or "Slime" for about $30. Or you can just rely on your AAA membership.
You'll find tons of info about this topic when you do a search.
Run-flats have improved in performance since their inception. Their stiff sidewalls do provide for a more responsive feel when in the twisties. That said, not many find that offsets the other shortcomings.
About run flats, they make such a huge difference on the first gen cars because the suspensions on those cars was designed on standard tires, then fitted with run flats. The second gen cars were designed with run flats from the get go, so switching would have less of an effect. From the few 2nd gen MINIs I've driven, they seem just as smooth on low profile run flats as my car does on conventional 60 series tires.
-snip-
About run flats, they make such a huge difference on the first gen cars because the suspensions on those cars was designed on standard tires, then fitted with run flats. The second gen cars were designed with run flats from the get go, so switching would have less of an effect. From the few 2nd gen MINIs I've driven, they seem just as smooth on low profile run flats as my car does on conventional 60 series tires.
About run flats, they make such a huge difference on the first gen cars because the suspensions on those cars was designed on standard tires, then fitted with run flats. The second gen cars were designed with run flats from the get go, so switching would have less of an effect. From the few 2nd gen MINIs I've driven, they seem just as smooth on low profile run flats as my car does on conventional 60 series tires.
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