I've done some research into this but I would like some input from the experts. I think that I want to get EBC Sport brake rotors. They are slotted and dimpled. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this brand or the rotors themselves.

I will be putting on EBS Red Stuff pads.

Price is a consideration. $$ is tight these days.

And now the question that you all have been asking: what will I be doing with them?

Well, that's easy. 90% of the time normal street driving, but when it's just me in the car, I drive somewhat aggressive but not out of hand on public streets. The rest of the time will be on club runs, autocross and one track day, possibly two per year. Hence the more aggressive pad and rotor than stock.

Any and all input is more than welcome.

Thanks in advance.

 

I'll fix that soon. sorry.

 

Whatever rotors you want (the stock rotors are pretty good, actually) and Hawk HPS pads. IMHO.

 

Unless you are in it for looks, there isn't any advantage of the expensive rotors.

I just put a set of cheap rotors from rockauto.com on my car, I'm more than happy with them so far (after the first couple autox events of the season...)

Jason

 

I found Hawk HPS did not generate much friction but were almost dust free. I switched to Ferodo DS2500 and they work great for street and track. Very good stopping power with stock size brakes. I have brembo slotted rotors. Tyrolsport caliper bushings.

During recent track experience, at end of a session the brakes were Smoking but still worked fine, and no abnormal wear showed.

 

Looks like I should go with Hawk pads and anyting but EBC rotors. The the Hawk's seem to be the winner from all the places that I posted this question.

I do want the look of the slotted rotors as well, even if I'm not really going to put them to their intended use, very often.


Another question: What, if any, effect will there be by mixing front and rear brake pads? I know that the front does the vast majority if the stopping, just wondering if there will be any brake balancing issues? My first thought is that it won't make any difference.

 

I just updated my brakes (pads/rotors/lines/fluid) and I went w/ the Hawk HPS based on a lot of favorable comments. Not sure why I had problems bedding them in (took two attempts) but once set, I'm very pleased.

Minimal dust, not much warm-up and they seem to bite better.

 

I asked the rotor question in another thread several weeks ago and one of the replies I got was having cross drilled rotors go through pads faster and if you want to impress 14 year old girls, get them.

I chose to pass on the rotors

 

From what I understand mixing pads only has an effect on non-ABS cars where there is a tendency for one axle (or wheel) to lockup prematurely so pads are mixed in an attempt to get the wheels to lockup at the same time. With ABS if one locks up the car automatically reduces brake pressure at that wheel.

Of course, this is what I read on another forum, so I don't know how accurate it is. Sounds good, at least.

 

I just got some Bobcat 1521 pads for my R56 MCS. They go on next week. I'll report my impressions when I've used them awhile.

The 1521 are more expensive than the Hawk HPS, are supposed to be easier on rotors, low noise, low dust, and great stopping power.

 

Mixing is common in a lot of racing applications where biasing changes or temperature ranges vary. On the MINI I'd not expect to see a huge performance change with any rear pad really. The dynamics of the car are such that the fronts will always to the majority of the work. This is due to the short wheelbase and nose heavy FWD.

That being said I often do suggest and pad change with the fit of a bbk for track use. Not so much to alter brake bias (which you can be nearly 10% with a pad change) but to have a pad capable of working in the same heat range as the fronts see. That for two reasons; first to prevent overheating and pad smearing, and second to at least keep the original bias (remember you now have track pads up front also) relatively neutral. Today's ABS and EBD systems seem to make the window pretty wide for all this. But if you put a race pad in the rear (waste of money imho) you may cycle the ABS more often as you just can't keep the wheel on the ground long enough to exploit the benefit.

 

Brembo makes solid vented rotors that tirerack sells that work great. As for pads. AutoxCooper sells Carbotech Bobcat pads that work great for aggressive street driving, are nearly dustless, and last forever. I'd stay away from DS2500's unless you really don't mind squeal (They're really noisy) and don't mind replacing them semi-often. They'll only last 10-15k miles of aggressive driving.

As others have said if you're looking for a real increase in friction coefficient, Hawk HPS won't really do anything. They're marketed as a stock replacement "Less Dust" pad, not as a performance pad. They'll fade pretty quick when hot.

The general consensus with drilled rotors is that it may actually increase brake fade due to a decrease in mass to absorb thermal load. Slotted rotors are pretty much the same, without the tendency to crack when heat cycled.

Slotted rotors *May* offer a slight advantage at the limit over plain rotors simply because it can allow the pads to "outgas" (which eliminates the barrier layer of gas between the pad and rotor).

For street driving you won't notice a difference between plain rotors and x-drilled or slotted rotors.

Personally if I was looking for a street setup, i'd go with Brembo plain rotors (Pretty cheap, and great quality) and Carbotech Bobcat 1521's or AX6 Panther Plus (Panther's have a little more bite) Pads. Info on those two pads here.

Enjoy

 

I went with a Wilwood BBK up front but left the rear stock, including the pads.....

Iwas going to get upgraded rear pads but a co-worker, who races an SCCA ITA CRX, talked me out of it because the car is so light that he thought I'd just lock up the back end with a set of grippy pads.... so I passed on that idea.

I'll let you know after this weekend because I head for Watkins Glen Friday for a two day HPDE....

 

Did you get from TCE?
What rotor size did you go with?
I'm days away from going with the 12.2 kit for front.
Post your findings from the Glen.

 

Not from TCE, another vendor on NAM...

I went for the Dynapro 11.75" race kit with DP20 pads.....rotor size was because I run 15" rims for autox.

I'll let you know about WG...

 

-my bad.I should have just read your sig.....sorry for being a lazy J.A.-hate that

 

I've used HPS at track events many times. There certainly not a race pad, but they are plenty good for a first / second year track driver running ~15 minute sessions. At least in my experience. I much preferred the Hawk HPS to the Porterfield R4-S.

Now that I'm going to have a dedicated track car, I'm going with Carbotech XP-10 / XP-8 pads front / rear. I haven't used them yet, so I cannot say if it was a good choice or not.

 

I've got the Powerslots and Hawk HPS pads and have been wery happy with them. Had no problems with the 3 track days so far on them. And they perform very well for daily driving.

 

For my JustaCooper -- street and twisties only; no Auto-X or track -- Powerslots for each corner are on the way (mostly for looks) and I'm just about to pull the trigger on CT Bobcat 1521's.

I guess we'll see if the NAM research pays off...

 

If someone needs a set of rotors (brand new in the box) slotted rotors, this is a great deal.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=138371

 

Nick,
Few points:
-+1 for Carbotech. I would recommend AX6 over Bobcats.
-+1 for decrease in thermal load for slotted and drilled rotors. Drilled rotors will face problems radiating the heat to the air because they simply have *LESS* surface size compared to plain. All those will make rotors crack. Crack occur because tiny MMs around the holes will be much cooler than the middle areas between holes. This temp differences will crack the metal!!!
-Slotted rotors simply have NO advantage over the plain rotors. People used to beleive that they help outgasing but modern pads do not produce gas or very minimum gases.

That said, never spend extra $$ on the slotted/drilled rotors.

 

How do the carbotech bobcat 1521 and ax6 compare with cold bite? I want something that will not fade with good cold bite. Between these two, I will go with the one with the best cold bite since my daily commute does not allow for my brakes to heat up.

 

How are you going to be using the brakes? HPDE, AutoX, racing?

 

Hello Alice,

The Bobcats and AX6 are apples and oranges. The Bobcats will give you more bite then you have with OEM, the AX6 will put unbelted passenger's in the dash .

Both work great cold and hot. At MOTD one of our team members with an R56 running AX6 pads and me in the R50 with Bobcats ran the Dragon hard and ran Deals Gap to Fontana and The Devils Triangle very hard with no brake fade whatsoever. Just know that the AX6 pads are dusty, not as much as OEM, but more so then Bobcats. Feel free to PM with any more questions.

 

What do the AX6 run for an R53 front and rear?